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- Thread starter sonicblue2003
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If your interested Im just getting ready to list for sale a Billetflow Blue two pulley nonslip supercharger set which comes with a 2.76 ring (1800 Miles on this) and a 2.93 ring (0 miles on this). Also a full set of Billetflow Blue Idler pulleys which includes 3 100mm and 1 90mm (all with 1800 miles on them), I'm asking $225.00 for everything, that's 1/2 what I paid for everything last year. In case your wondering the only reason I'm getting rid of this is I'm changing colors to match my supercharger.
The only thing missing is the Aux. Idler Bracket which you can get from billet flow for about $80.00
The only thing missing is the Aux. Idler Bracket which you can get from billet flow for about $80.00
We have a few good sponsors here that tune with SCT and Predator, it's always good to support them, ask them for quotes. They input a base tune and then fine tune it to your car.
Those who don't use shops, usually do mail order tunes throughout the US. They usually have no access to a dyno w/ a/f so they use a a/f monitor to datalog.
Those who don't use shops, usually do mail order tunes throughout the US. They usually have no access to a dyno w/ a/f so they use a a/f monitor to datalog.
You should probably determine the purpose of the car, i.e. strip, street/strip, autocross/street, etc. More or less your overall goal
Next, determine how deep your pockets are and a timeframe. For some of us, we continue to improve the preformance, safety and reliability each year. Others, put the car together in one summer. Money plays a big factor...
Finally, some of us prefer to build the car from back to front (safety/reliablity come first). Meaning start with the rear and install support/safety mods first (axles or half shafts, upgraded clutch, ds safety loop, suspension mods, gear, cage, etc), then build the power second.
Dave
Next, determine how deep your pockets are and a timeframe. For some of us, we continue to improve the preformance, safety and reliability each year. Others, put the car together in one summer. Money plays a big factor...
Finally, some of us prefer to build the car from back to front (safety/reliablity come first). Meaning start with the rear and install support/safety mods first (axles or half shafts, upgraded clutch, ds safety loop, suspension mods, gear, cage, etc), then build the power second.
Dave
noavgcobra said:
No, it isn't, but I have run quicker than some ported, mostly cause I have the driver mod!
Other mods I would suggest with DR's and the above...- full lenth subframe connectors
-irs differential brace
- savings fund for new clutch
If you learn to launch and drive EVENTUALLY the clutch will go, I think mine had 23k... still haven't checked, but that is the first thing that I am doing when I get back from the honeymoon.
thanks the drs come in the spring when the insurance goes back on also thinking of a moderate drop in suspension car only has 7k so hopefully the clutch holds for a little whileFlatliner said:No, it isn't, but I have run quicker than some ported, mostly cause I have the driver mod!
- full lenth subframe connectors
-irs differential brace
- savings fund for new clutch
If you learn to launch and drive EVENTUALLY the clutch will go, I think mine had 23k... still haven't checked, but that is the first thing that I am doing when I get back from the honeymoon.
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