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which nitrous kit should i get??
- Thread starter 04svt
- Start date
Im going with a NX kit. Everything is pretty much the same between every other brand. but The "ice" solniods in the NX are top notch! Kinda of worried about spraying the house down into the Kenne Bell, I guesss only time will tell 
Also I heard dynopack & cold fusion nitrous stuff it very cheap and good.
Also I heard dynopack & cold fusion nitrous stuff it very cheap and good.
RD SNAKE said:Im going with a NX kit. Everything is pretty much the same between every other brand. but The "ice" solniods in the NX are top notch! Kinda of worried about spraying the house down into the Kenne Bell, I guesss only time will tell
Pretty much ALL nitrous solenoids come from the same exact manufacturer. The different brands just usually have different good points. If I were the thread starter I would just search on a few other modular Mustang forums to see what is available. There is always at least a few kits going for screaming deals. I got a wet kit for an insane deal about 9 months ago. I would never buy a new nitrous kit. They are just too simple to have much go wrong with them.
Hey RD why don't you just spray into the bottom of the IC like what some people are doing with their Meth kits? The only potential hitch I could see is that the gas/nitro will have very little time to mix with the air evenly before entering the intake ports in heads.
rocket5979 said:
I tried finding a kit but no one seems to make one. Plus I know a lot of people on Mfords are sprayin into the blower, plus all of the major brands only allow their kits to spary pre-blower. I'm not too worried about it, Im not going to be spraying that much
but it would be nice if they made one
RD SNAKE said:I tried finding a kit but no one seems to make one. Plus I know a lot of people on Mfords are sprayin into the blower, plus all of the major brands only allow their kits to spary pre-blower. I'm not too worried about it, Im not going to be spraying that much
Nitrous is soooooooo simple dude just make your own kit. I cannot say enough how much of a piece of cake it is to make your own nitrous system and customize it for your vehicle.
One thing to consider when spraying post blower under the IC manifold is that whatever shot your running, you will have to jet it EXTRA EXTRA rich due to the manifold pressure pushing back on your fuel injection. You figure that on a 45 psi EFI system that if your running 17 lbs boost on the KB that will net you only 28 psi of actual fuel making it out of the nozzle. If not rejetted correctly to compensate it can be VERY dangerous.
If you plan to spray pre-blower then you will have no need of concern for that. Dude don't worry about a kit made for your vehicle. Just buy the universal V8 wetkit from the manufacturer of your preference and install it, jet it and tune it right.
If you plan to spray pre-blower then you will have no need of concern for that. Dude don't worry about a kit made for your vehicle. Just buy the universal V8 wetkit from the manufacturer of your preference and install it, jet it and tune it right.
RD SNAKE said:oh don't worry im well schooled in the nitrous area. I just don't feel like making lines and all of that shit to go under the manifold. just saying it would be nice if everything was Pre-fab for a lazy ass like me
My remarks made about the jetting extra rich is something that even most people that know a decent amount about nitrous will not take into account when spraying into a pressurized atmosphere versus normal. When looking at the A/F situations like that are best computed with percentages of difference versus plain subtraction.
Custom fabrication is the funnest part! :headbang: Though depending on the project size it can become a PITA at times.
At times I do wish I had a mustang so that with the power I am making I would be much quicker and with less headache to get there.rocket5979 said:My remarks made about the jetting extra rich is something that even most people that know a decent amount about nitrous will not take into account when spraying into a pressurized atmosphere versus normal. When looking at the A/F situations like that are best computed with percentages of difference versus plain subtraction.
Custom fabrication is the funnest part! :headbang: Though depending on the project size it can become a PITA at times.
but ur truck is a total fucking sleeper!
Personally, I would never use a wet kit on an 03-04 Cobra, UNLESS it had its own fuel source (ie. fuel cell, etc). I probably wouldnt do it anyways, because it would be scary enough to have a N2O solenoid stay open, but could you imagine if a fuel noid got stuck open, which can happen :blowingup It would not be good.
I would stick with what works, a DRY, post-MAF shot straight into the TB, and have a separate tune when on the spray.
I bought this kit, which is now on sale BTW, http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=119
and with a good tune my car made ~700 ft/lbs and 60' foots in the 1.4's on the .52 jet.
Great kit, great quality, and nobody is gonna beat that price on a quality kit.
my .02
I would stick with what works, a DRY, post-MAF shot straight into the TB, and have a separate tune when on the spray.
I bought this kit, which is now on sale BTW, http://www.dynotunenitrous.com/store/scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=119
and with a good tune my car made ~700 ft/lbs and 60' foots in the 1.4's on the .52 jet.
Great kit, great quality, and nobody is gonna beat that price on a quality kit.
my .02
firstsvt said:
Whether you run wet or dry you still take a chance, though slight, of having a noid stick open. If the fuel noid sticks open then your flooding the chambers with fuel and running PIIIIIIG rich. If the nitro solenoid sticks open (while the fuel noid closes) then things can go boom. Same can happen with a dry shot once you get out of WOT.
If you REALLY want to be as safe as possible then run the typical safety items like fuel pressure cutoff switch, and the normal window & WOT switches in addition to running two solenoids inline from one another. If one sticks you still have another one that will close. If somehow BOTH stick open at the same time, well then maybe someone above just doesn't like you. :laughing2 If you maintain your solenoids and rebuild them occassionally to make sure things are in good working order then it is VERY rare to have one stick open.
With all your other mods taxxing your current fuel system I would reccomend that if you decide to run a wetshot that you run a dedicated return fuel system for it. Though it is more expensive to set another mini-fuel system up, it is not really difficult to do.
B
Boost12
Guest
I ran the dynotune kit on my car and I would never buy anything from them again. I never even hit the car hard and the kit never worked right. It worked right for the first few months but then after time the solenoids would not open up under pressure. I know there kits are well priced but sometimes its better to pay more
On these cars if you have enoufgh fuel to support the spray Dry shots seem to get alot better #'s. But its very important to get tuned right with spray otherwise you will be in for some headaches. When I sprayed a pre MAF 35 shot of dry back in the day on my eaton I gained a little over 50whp from it. Thats a good gain for such a small shot
On these cars if you have enoufgh fuel to support the spray Dry shots seem to get alot better #'s. But its very important to get tuned right with spray otherwise you will be in for some headaches. When I sprayed a pre MAF 35 shot of dry back in the day on my eaton I gained a little over 50whp from it. Thats a good gain for such a small shot
CobraChris08 said:
When done correctly nitrous can be VERY well hidden while not even going close to the extremes of what MM&FF did with that Fox 5.0. Even when I tell people to look for my nitrous setup it still takes them a little while to find it. Switches all hidden neatly, solenoids not even close to being able to be seen when looking in the engine bay. The only thing that can somewhat give it away is a larger than normal length of "wire loom" that connects to the intake from the bottom. Most normal people would take one look at that and automatically think it is a PCV or IATS connection. :headbang:
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