-
đź’ˇ Fun fact. Whenever you start a thread, TCG Mechanic 5000 (our AI bot) will reply to you to start helping. It doesn't know everything and it will struggle with more complex questions but it can get the thread going and provide valuable information. You can choose to disable it prior to submitting a thread.
Quick Nitrous question.
- Thread starter SWORN
- Start date
Probably going to buy a kit a bit later in the year..... Bought my car in Jan and put a fair amount of work/maintenance into it so far. (Posted a thread in the members ride section.)
What is a better way to go, a tune or a box? I imagine a tune is probably around $400-$500 or so....
Do you have to run colder plugs with the box. Is it better to run colder plugs in general for a NOS car?
Based on the plastic 4.6 intake I was told that you shouldn't spray below 3500/4000 RPM's. Sound about right?
Also, thanks again to all that have posted. Sorry about the million questions! I'm new to Nitrous and really don't know as much about it as I want! When I'm ready, I want to be able to make an informed purchase.
Sorry gotta get this off my chest. NOS is a brand. Its N-I-T-R-O-U-S, there's no NOS about it. You don't want to spray below 3000 RPM. For a 100 shot, you don't really need a full on tune, but most mods require a tuner (like a SCT), and a tuner will allow you to pull timing, which is really the key point for a tune at that low of a shot. You want to use a colder plug no matter what.
What kind if work does the car have now?
What kind if work does the car have now?
Oops, my mistake.
Colder plugs are better, got it! I'm currently running a Sct "93 canned tune."
Copied this from my members ride post, nothing crazy, just some minor bolt ons. (Not too bad for only owning it for basically four months!) Not really looking to make a track car. I just want something that has some more power when I want to use it....
Anyway, Purchased it in Jan of this year. So far this is what's been done to it:
Mach 1 Grille delete.
New Steering rack.
New Ball joints.
K&N Typhoon CAI.
Accufab Billet Plenum and TB
Front rotors resurfaced and left caliper replaced. (Going to do slotted rotors later.)
New alignment.
Ford Racing floor mats.
SCT "Canned" Tune
SLP Catted X pipe.
Bullet Mufflers.
CDC Lightbar.
New plugs.
New fuel filter.
FRP 4:10 Gear/ replaced both ABS sensors as well.
Trick flow girdle/dif cover.
Saleen S281 spoiler.
Blacked out tail panel.
Yep control it with a minimum of window and WOT TPS switch or go with a progressive controller for about the same price. I prefer the progressive controller because you can dial in traction by lowering the shot % on the launch if traction is an issue. Max power delivery while retaining traction. An FPSS hobbs switch isn't a bad idea either as Chet mentioned.
You can modify the IATS signal with the master arm switch of the nitrous system, two relays, and a resistor which tricks the ECU to believe it is running the coldest IAT's that the tune will reference. Then have your tuner go into your tune into the IAT Spark table and take out 2-3 degrees of spark advance in the coldest cell. I normally don't advocate tricking the ECU but in this case you are pretty much doing exactly what the timing retard box is but for cheaper if you know wiring. It isn't really that complex. The IAT's it makes the ECU "see" are considerably colder than any temperature your car will normally encounter on the road even up here in IL so it will have no real affect on the safety of your car besides it being forced to pull timing advance when the switch is flipped. You could do a similar thing and just assume the nitrous will cool the IATS quickly enough to have the ECU pull timing advance but the delay isn't worth the chance you take in knocking before that temp transition occurs.
You are N/A with what I can only assume is not a crazy amount of mods. In all honesty even if you did have to run around on your nitrous timing retard tune for your wet system, you won't be leaving that much power on the table. You will perhaps lose about 10hp or so by retarding timing 2-3 degrees. Now if you were forced induction then retarding timing 2-3 degrees would make for a large power loss and it would not be good to run around on your nitrous tune.
If you have questions about the self built timing retard box just PM me and I will elaborate.
Like aftermarket COP's?
Those are obviously the extremes on both ends, on your car you should see pretty close to 100 rwhp if your a stick car.
Some manufacturers rate their nitrous jets with hp gains at the rear tires while others rate their nitrous jets with hp gains at the flywheel. Some may rate a "100 shot" .052" jet for 100 hp at the fly while others will rate their .052" jet at 100 rwhp because they advise the user to run a few more hundred psi bottle pressure. Others will rate a slightly different orifice size for "100 shot" on a different pressure. They all rate their jets in a slightly different way but the basic gist is that if you have the same total amount of nitrous making it into the engine, whether it be with a smaller jet on higher bottle pressure or bigger jet on lower bottle pressure, the power gain will still be the same.
When you buy a kit just make sure you are familiar with whether they rate the gains with their jets at the flywheel or the rear wheels, and at what bottle pressure. Do this and there should be no let downs come dyno testing time.
Replacing your stockers with aftermarket COP's is not worth it at your power level. Stock new edge Mustang COP's have been ran up to way more power than what you will be making. Just go with colder plugs and gap them a little smaller and you will be fine when it comes to spark plugs or coil related stuff.
Yes. Probably will be picking up a set of Accels from another site. Used with very few miles for a dirt cheap price.
It's an auto, couldn't really justify a stick as I do a lot of city driving. Although I fully admit, there's nothing like banging through the gears on an open stretch of road!
What it probably needs as well is a nice converter, maybe somthing around the 3500 range. But that's further down the road. It seem like every paycheck goes right into the car!
Great point!
Harris Speed Works :: EFI Nitrous Kits :: Ford Vehicles :: Mustang :: Mustang '99 - '04 :: HSW Wet Nitrous Kits :: Sudden Impact Wet Plate Nitrous Kit
Harris Speedworks is good stuff. They also sell a great controller which will allow you to retard your timing automatically when spraying, rather than having to detune your timing tables full time.
Give them a call if you have questions! They have great customer service.
Harris Speedworks is good stuff. They also sell a great controller which will allow you to retard your timing automatically when spraying, rather than having to detune your timing tables full time.
Give them a call if you have questions! They have great customer service.
The only reason I was going to pick up the COPS is that I'm really getting a killer deal on them. One that really is to good to pass up.
Starting with the 50 shot seems like a fair assessment and a decent place to start. In regards to the converter, just thought a nice shot of nitrous with my 4:10's and a converter would be a lot of fun!
Still though, that's further down the road.Did not know that, I'll have to look into them!
Thread Info
-
Created -
38Replies
-
2KViews
-
Participants list
