might buy a car tomorrow, need advice
- Thread starter SleeperLS
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X2, From what I've seen you can usually get dealers to shave a grand right off the top and not bat an eye, but much past that is pulling teeth hard-core Unless you have leverage like it was a dealer demo, or is optioned oddly, or is a not popular color etc.
as far as bearings etc yes but the most critical breakin of a modern engine (since many dont have flat tappet cams) is the ring to bore break-in
most commonly i hear breakins should be tailored to the normal operation, due to at operating temp bore out of roundness issues experienced by any cast block without full floating sleeves the only way to seat the rings fully is with high cylinder pressures, if you never vary the load enough during breakin youll end up with less than desirable dynamic leakdown.
ie old lady driver, break it in like an old lady, if your gonna leadfoot it, vary the load and if the tune is ok load it up as much as you can without damage.
when was the last time you saw a full race engine brokein on a dyno like a little old lady for 500miles and then flogged. most of the time you see em put varying loads on the brake/varying rpm's for 30minutes to seat the cam/lifters, valve to valveseats and rings to bores, checking the tune during, then they flog em/fully tune it.
I though I read that the wrx manual states to not exceed 4grand for 1k miles. Then have the oil changed. I guess people were breaking motors and having problems. Techs decided it was due to improper break in. It does have the STi motor now. Just .2 more compression from pistons and a different intercooler.
thats probably a good procedure to follow, but i wouldnt say the car is doomed if a prior owner didnt break it in that way. you can tell if a car has been driven hard or not just by looking at it
Not saying this is an apples to apples comparison but yeah...grandfather went in to buy a new DTS at Motorwerks about 1 year ago. MSRP'd for about 48K, he said well I'll pay 32K, Motorwerks basically said go fuck yourself the lowest we'll go is 45K, he walked out of there. Went to Patrick and they pulled the same thing, he walked out. Went to Lemay in Kenosha, walked out with a fully loaded DTS for under 34K. Again the DTS is not a car that is flying off the lot, however the point is, make the dealer give you the price you want, if you don't like what they are doing, walk out and go to a new dealership, if they don't want your money someone else will. Don't give into their shit, their job is to blind you with it, see through it and get what YOU want not what they want. You are going to get rammed up the ass, it is up to you on how much you get rammed.
this is far and few inbetween....
after working in the new car buisness...at least with gm, we dont make shit on a new car. we make our money on the trade-in and service work.
im not saying a dealer isnt going to work with you...but unless they are very hardup i wouldnt expect them to drop more than 1000 off the sticker price.
the markup is usually less than 1500 what we pay for a new buick, and most are less than 1000...which doesnt leave much for what goes into getting one (paying for delivery and whatnot)
Thanks a lot. I will give you a call tomorrow morning...around 9ish probably. The only thing subaru has right now that is crucial is 2.9% financing for 5 years.
See I've heard differently then, when I told my dad the same story, and he used to be a new car salesman for a Chrysler, Dodge, Jeep for some reason no one wanted to buy the 300C SRT8 and they let it go for 34-5K and it MSRP'd for 44K and change, and he said that was really not outside of the norm around there at least. Maybe I'm just getting the views of two strapped dealers, one of which lost its cadillac dealer license and the other with a bankrupt company
Just an FYI the STI short throw shifter isn't very good. It's like 10% shorter throws and is like a $250 option. A kartboy shifter is much better and is like $125.
Also I'd say the main break-in concern with the H4 is seating the rings. It'll have a bit of blow-by anyway, just the nature of the engine.
Also I'd say the main break-in concern with the H4 is seating the rings. It'll have a bit of blow-by anyway, just the nature of the engine.
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