Rear left brake draggggginnnngg..

[syP]

1997 Grand Prix GTP...

2 issues..

1)

Noticed it was worn out so i put on new rotors and pads..


realized it was worn out bc its was dragging... took off rear drivers side and put on new hardware and new caliper pins...

still dragging.. rim gets pretty hot, and rotor is SCORCHING compared to the pass rear after a 5 minute drive at 45mph.


When i reset the piston, it went back butter smooth.. caliper slide pins seem to be moving with little resistance....


Issue 2)

At lower speeds when i turn left, the brakes on the driver side squeel, whether im braking or not... (hub assembly???!) (cant tell if its the front or the rears)... When i straighten the wheel, OR turn right, it does NOT squeel anymore.

Pads and rotors appear to be okay...

WTF are these problems?

Click to read more...

 

[Tuner World]

Even if the piston went back smoothly it could still be the caliper, especially if that's the only thing you haven't replaced yet.

The turning might have something to do with the steering system? I found out my ball-joints were bad when mine was squealing but that happened everytime I turned my wheel either way during lower speeds. Higher speeds it was ok though

 

[Fish]

The rear might be a parking brake issue.

 

[syP]

forgot to add.. i removed the parking brake from this car.

 

[E]

Any chance it could be your wheel bearings?

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

jackup wheel, trry to turn while brake padal is depressed, let up on brake pedal and check effort, it may just be that the rubber hose is collapsed internally is such a way it acts almost like a checkvalve

 

[DanJ]

Weird coincidence that I called you regarding a similar issue the other day.

 

[Oreif]

If the rear has been dragging fo a while, The higher heat could have hurt the hub bearing.

As for the rear brakes dragging, Did you change out the rubber brake lines?
Rubber brake lines rot from the inside and can collapse. This restricts the return flow of the brake fluid causing them to drag.

 

[syP]

ill try the brake hose next.

i hate bleeding brakes

anyone know where i can buy a good air-compressor-powered brake bleeder?

 

[AlmightyBirdman]

Harbor freight maybe? I'm gonna agree with everyone else though, that brake hose is probably fubar.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

to confirm the brake hose is the issue youll need to verify that the wheel turns hard after the pedal was pressed and released, and for hw long. take wheel off and using a wrench/socket on the bleeder, use a prybarto turn the hub using the studs, repeat test, after pedal is released and the rotor is still hard to turn crack the bleeder loose to vent the pressure, if there's a spurt and the rotor spins freely at this point then its undoubtedly the hose.
if very little brake fluid comes out and the rotor is still hard to turn its likely the silt in the bottom of the piston bores wedging the piston in place, replace the caliper.

have fun

 

[syP]

talked it over with bikrboy tonight..

if it WERE the hose, would the piston still reset with the C-clamp just fine?? I thought that if it were collapsed, it wouldnt reset as easily as the "working" side?

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

sometimes yes sometimes not, do the bleeder test and see if its residual pressure doing it (either from a collapsed hose or bad master) or mechanical force causing it to stick (silt/corrosion in piston bores/deeply grooved padslides etc)

 

[frosty23_45]

I had to replace my caliper on the same side last year for the same issue on the rear. I got one from morad for like $20 or something.