3800 What should i do next
- Thread starter BLOWN GP
- Start date
Look into ported manifolds over headers; the ZZP power-log for the front bank and a good welded and ported rear will give you more flow without the fitment and "pinging" issues associated with headers. I'd look into a set of 1.8 Roller Rockers over the reman'd 1.9's; the "new" rollers have less deflection under load. I would also look into a Thrasher shift kit and a MPS from ZZP or W-Body Store.
Those additions to your current combo should put you very well into the 13's running a 3.2 pulley and a 110 octang mix. Plus, it'll stay as reliable as it was new.
Those additions to your current combo should put you very well into the 13's running a 3.2 pulley and a 110 octang mix. Plus, it'll stay as reliable as it was new.
imo... ported manifolds have never been proven with numbers.
i would not let my money go into them.
especially when you can find a set of pacesetters for around 300 bucks... which is about what it would cost to have a downpipe/power log/ ported rear combo.
people complain about installing pacesetters. in all reality, they arent that bad. get the y pipe welded by an exhaust shop and its simple. or do what i did, get two u-bolt exhaust clamps for the y... and impact them into submission.
-mine have been on since june... no leaks. no complaints. best 325 i spent for my car.
i would not let my money go into them.
especially when you can find a set of pacesetters for around 300 bucks... which is about what it would cost to have a downpipe/power log/ ported rear combo.
people complain about installing pacesetters. in all reality, they arent that bad. get the y pipe welded by an exhaust shop and its simple. or do what i did, get two u-bolt exhaust clamps for the y... and impact them into submission.
-mine have been on since june... no leaks. no complaints. best 325 i spent for my car.
PM's put Zoomer and many others well into the 12's.
The stock L67 heads are the bottleneck. I would suggest headers more for anyone porting their stock heads or switching to aftermarket staged heads. I would be on the fence with headers on a cam swap though. Further, he already has a downpipe for the stock manifolds so he's half-way there.
My PM's have been on for over 2 years and no leaking or mysterious "knocking" noise from a misaligned downpipe clanking into the swaybar.
The stock L67 heads are the bottleneck. I would suggest headers more for anyone porting their stock heads or switching to aftermarket staged heads. I would be on the fence with headers on a cam swap though. Further, he already has a downpipe for the stock manifolds so he's half-way there.
My PM's have been on for over 2 years and no leaking or mysterious "knocking" noise from a misaligned downpipe clanking into the swaybar.
the only reason pems put zoomer into the 12s was because there was nothing better at the time.
if pacesetters are hitting the sway bar... you have bigger problems. mainly togs have problems hitting the swaybar I have NEVER heard of a set of pacesetters hitting the sway bar... hitting the floor and firewall in reverse, yes... but sway bar... not a chance...
whats "pinging" anyways? if by pinging you meant knock... um headers do not cause knock... if you meant false knock, flip the sway bar (if you have togs) and wam... you dont have "pinging"
many others into the 12s?
my good friend zach shafer tried to go 12s on pems... a lil spray and a ssic. and was coming up real short.... switched to headers... and what do you know... he hit 12s....
sure its possible to go 12s on pems... but why the hell would you want to? and are you suggesting that instead of headers he should have ported heads?
+ list for headers...
easier to not have KR
more power
actually backed up by numbers
not a bottle neck
- list for headers....
"hard to install" (if youre putting on a rear manifold... you could do headers)
"might leak" (my car might blow up... fix it... take your time do it right)
PEMs are better than headers like shitting yourself is better than sitting on the toilet
if pacesetters are hitting the sway bar... you have bigger problems. mainly togs have problems hitting the swaybar I have NEVER heard of a set of pacesetters hitting the sway bar... hitting the floor and firewall in reverse, yes... but sway bar... not a chance...
whats "pinging" anyways? if by pinging you meant knock... um headers do not cause knock... if you meant false knock, flip the sway bar (if you have togs) and wam... you dont have "pinging"
many others into the 12s?
my good friend zach shafer tried to go 12s on pems... a lil spray and a ssic. and was coming up real short.... switched to headers... and what do you know... he hit 12s....
sure its possible to go 12s on pems... but why the hell would you want to? and are you suggesting that instead of headers he should have ported heads?
+ list for headers...
easier to not have KR
more power
actually backed up by numbers
not a bottle neck
- list for headers....
"hard to install" (if youre putting on a rear manifold... you could do headers)
"might leak" (my car might blow up... fix it... take your time do it right)
PEMs are better than headers like shitting yourself is better than sitting on the toilet
I think what autoguy might be saying is that for a budget and not so many mods, PEMs will be a better bang for buck over headers. Yes, headers have come down in price, but I dont know if Id want paceshitters. I just might pick PEMs over them. I still have my SLPs in the trunk so I dont have to worry about the choice. 
a ported rear plus a power log that are ceramic coated from zzp costs 394.... add in a downpipe (at least a hundo no matter what route you go) and you are at the price of a set of coated pacesetters...
pems definitely served their purpose when the only headers out there were togs which cost 800+ to complete... but to me, now they are dated.
pems definitely served their purpose when the only headers out there were togs which cost 800+ to complete... but to me, now they are dated.
Fish is right with the direction of my suggestions; he already has a downpipe and a rear manifold that he can have rewelded and grind the inner welds out himself. The power log is only $120 more and he’s good to go. Hell, $50 more of header wrap and he’ll cut the hood temps down.
The “pinging” I’m referring to is a resonant “rattling” sound that happens at the first bend in the downpipe which is why the factory downpipes are double walled. This sound seemed more pronounced with headers than PM’s; perhaps because of the free’er flowing exhaust but noticeable none-the-less. (…unless you’re doing something like running Flowmaster 40 series w/o a cat or resonator…then you can’t hear shit!) Anyway, I delt with that with header-wrap in the right places and it’s unnoticed even with my stock exhaust on.
My suggestion for porting heads was never stated as a replacement for heads but more as a requisite for them; please read more carefully. The stock L67 heads will become the restriction before PM’s will. Once you port the head then you should switch to headers as the PM’s become the new bottleneck.
These suggestions were based on the assumption that BlownGP might not have the kind of funds that some people have as well as the assumption that he may not want to chance the dependability of the car. Thus, mid to low13’s in a comfortable and reliable daily driver is entirely attainable at a low cost given my original suggestions.
I think that if Blown GP’s direction is for a dependable low 13 car then headers are about as much of a waste of money as say…non-functional 3M hood scoops. Let’s wait to find out if he has a set goal and realistic expectations.
As for my basis for suggestions; I've been into L67's for longer than most of you have been driving so you don’t need to “school” me on any of this. You’re attitude was not appreciated and I will hold back at starting a flame-war from your “…shitting yourself” comment Further, I too look to “friends” as a source of information but my friends are Zoomer, Mike Dye, Ron Vogel…or even Fish who have all been into these cars longer than me.
Now if you want someone who can appreciates your car for what it is as a friend than don’t try to make your suggestions sound more authoritative by beating down mine. Otherwise, Fish as well as a couple others here can attest to my abilities to bring the fire.
Blown GP…what the Hell are your goals with the car!!!
at:
The “pinging” I’m referring to is a resonant “rattling” sound that happens at the first bend in the downpipe which is why the factory downpipes are double walled. This sound seemed more pronounced with headers than PM’s; perhaps because of the free’er flowing exhaust but noticeable none-the-less. (…unless you’re doing something like running Flowmaster 40 series w/o a cat or resonator…then you can’t hear shit!) Anyway, I delt with that with header-wrap in the right places and it’s unnoticed even with my stock exhaust on.
My suggestion for porting heads was never stated as a replacement for heads but more as a requisite for them; please read more carefully. The stock L67 heads will become the restriction before PM’s will. Once you port the head then you should switch to headers as the PM’s become the new bottleneck.
These suggestions were based on the assumption that BlownGP might not have the kind of funds that some people have as well as the assumption that he may not want to chance the dependability of the car. Thus, mid to low13’s in a comfortable and reliable daily driver is entirely attainable at a low cost given my original suggestions.
I think that if Blown GP’s direction is for a dependable low 13 car then headers are about as much of a waste of money as say…non-functional 3M hood scoops. Let’s wait to find out if he has a set goal and realistic expectations.
As for my basis for suggestions; I've been into L67's for longer than most of you have been driving so you don’t need to “school” me on any of this. You’re attitude was not appreciated and I will hold back at starting a flame-war from your “…shitting yourself” comment Further, I too look to “friends” as a source of information but my friends are Zoomer, Mike Dye, Ron Vogel…or even Fish who have all been into these cars longer than me.
Now if you want someone who can appreciates your car for what it is as a friend than don’t try to make your suggestions sound more authoritative by beating down mine. Otherwise, Fish as well as a couple others here can attest to my abilities to bring the fire.
Blown GP…what the Hell are your goals with the car!!!
at:
BLOWN GP said:
Then I would say that with what you have, weld and port the rear manifold, get the powerlog, ($120) rockers with springs, ($400) a MPS with a 3.4 & 3.2 ($150) and a good shift kit ($30-$90) and you should be well into 13’s on a 110 fuel mix and a 3.2 pulley on the track and still be able to drive it to California and back without any issues.
You should see no more than 13 pounds of boost with that set up and 110 fuel; with the 3.4 pulley on 93 octane you should be closer to 11 pounds. Running this way should not give you any knock unless it’s the “false” knock we tend to get just before shifts.
Further, do you have a way of scanning your runs?
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