Putting the battery in the hatch of your car, who has done it?
- Thread starter FESTER665
- Start date
I have my battery in the hatch with 12v power running up to the fender solenoid, that is now hidden inside of the fender. I run the alternator charging cable back to the "hot" side of my flaming river cut off switch. That way all power is killed when the switch is in the off position.
I have a push pull switch. The pull handle passes through between my license plate and passenger side tail light. There's just enough room there for the rod to pass through. I just leave it there all the time. I'm too lazy to remove it for street duty lol.
I have a push pull switch. The pull handle passes through between my license plate and passenger side tail light. There's just enough room there for the rod to pass through. I just leave it there all the time. I'm too lazy to remove it for street duty lol.
Shit. I wish I had dem Eagle stack's, then my shit would be done... green car/ other car's upgrades are going at a snails pace at the moment for me. Just a poor whiteboy construction worker with only a HS education up in here...
Bolt/rivet in Engine bay panels I made for the green one vs. Filling and welding. Turned out well and was way less work...
Got that fancy chrome Meziere waterpump that will be for sale soon as I will be going to a remote water pump/motor plate to be able to run my fancy Danny Bee belt driveimp: and my Aeromotive sumped tank is for sale to go to a fuel cell... if anyones interested.
I'm doing the same on my Cobra, don't go having a grabber about it though. LOL
:toast:
Some damn good info in here. I need to get on my battery relocation so I can start my shit box up again. Wiring adds the fuck up though and I lose motivation
That's for sure!
I'm going to start looking into connectors and other wire through work, hopefully that will make it reasonable for me.
No box needed if it is in the trunk just a heavy duty hold down bracket with the sealed type batteries. I am actually going to run the XS Power Battery next. The 2 Optima's I have had treated me well but if you drain them down to a certain point it can be a real pain to get them to come back in my experience. The Redtop I had for 6 years before the Yellow top seemed to be more forgiving and many people have said that Optima sold a few years ago and the quality has since dropped. So with that said many of my buddies are having good luck with the XS Power batteries so it's time for me to make the switch as well.
No box needed if it is in the trunk just a heavy duty hold down bracket with the sealed type batteries. I am actually going to run the XS Power Battery next. The 2 Optima's I have had treated me well but if you drain them down to a certain point it can be a real pain to get them to come back in my experience. The Redtop I had for 6 years before the Yellow top seemed to be more forgiving and many people have said that Optima sold a few years ago and the quality has since dropped. So with that said many of my buddies are having good luck with the XS Power batteries so it's time for me to make the switch as well.
Same experience with Optimas for me, just thought they were still the best in the battery game....
I'm pretty happy with my Yellowtop and the deal for their charger was spectacular. If you have an Optima, their charger is a MUST and is really nice to boot.
I found that welding cable was far cheaper and much more flexible than battery cable of the same size. You'll find people swearing up and down not to use welding cable, so you'll have to weigh the options yourself on that one. Both battery cables run through the interior of my car.
To wire the car properly and avoid destroying the alternator during shutoff, I found that 2 power wires needed to be run from the trunk to the engine bay. One cable goes from the battery to the alternator (through a big ass fuse) and is always hot. This cable is critical to not destroying the alternator when the load is suddenly removed from the alternator. The battery continues to be the load on the alternator output even when the switch is thrown and avoids the sudden overcurrent condition. The second cable goes from the battery, through the switch (FWIW I am using the Moroso posted earlier), then from the other post of the switch, through another big fuse, up to the starter and the distribution block for the car. Effectively, this separates all power sources from all operational circuits though the switch. Alternatively, I think the starter could be on either of the power cables, it just depends on how you want to wire it. Be cautious of any factory cables that bridge those two halves such as a cable running from the alternator to the starter or alternator to distribution block, etc.. Ideally, (in my case at least) I would have liked to retain power to the PCM, but cut power to fuel and spark but did not want to tear into the wiring harness that far, so what I did works just fine for safety requirement purposes.
It's worth mentioning that my setup described is not in a Mustang, so I may not be of much help with the particulars. It would seem however that even if you move the solenoid to the trunk, there is no avoiding having to run all the solenoid output cables back to the front or wherever they go. I'm not familiar with what circuits that solenoid powers.
I found that welding cable was far cheaper and much more flexible than battery cable of the same size. You'll find people swearing up and down not to use welding cable, so you'll have to weigh the options yourself on that one. Both battery cables run through the interior of my car.
To wire the car properly and avoid destroying the alternator during shutoff, I found that 2 power wires needed to be run from the trunk to the engine bay. One cable goes from the battery to the alternator (through a big ass fuse) and is always hot. This cable is critical to not destroying the alternator when the load is suddenly removed from the alternator. The battery continues to be the load on the alternator output even when the switch is thrown and avoids the sudden overcurrent condition. The second cable goes from the battery, through the switch (FWIW I am using the Moroso posted earlier), then from the other post of the switch, through another big fuse, up to the starter and the distribution block for the car. Effectively, this separates all power sources from all operational circuits though the switch. Alternatively, I think the starter could be on either of the power cables, it just depends on how you want to wire it. Be cautious of any factory cables that bridge those two halves such as a cable running from the alternator to the starter or alternator to distribution block, etc.. Ideally, (in my case at least) I would have liked to retain power to the PCM, but cut power to fuel and spark but did not want to tear into the wiring harness that far, so what I did works just fine for safety requirement purposes.
It's worth mentioning that my setup described is not in a Mustang, so I may not be of much help with the particulars. It would seem however that even if you move the solenoid to the trunk, there is no avoiding having to run all the solenoid output cables back to the front or wherever they go. I'm not familiar with what circuits that solenoid powers.
4 of my buddies made the switch from Optima to the XS Power Batteries with zero complaints. We are talking drag cars that run low 8's and in two that have been beyond 7.50's in da 1/4 mile and 4.50's in the 1/8 mile.
Maybe a member on here can shed some wisdom from his experiences. [MENTION=5498]PJx5x[/MENTION]
Maybe a member on here can shed some wisdom from his experiences. [MENTION=5498]PJx5x[/MENTION]
Thread Info
-
Created -
39Replies
-
1KViews
-
Participants list
