đź‘‹ INTRO Mid-engine 3800 Series 1
- Thread starter crisd
- Start date
pull the check valve on the pump outlet, just live with the occasional vaporlock/fuel drainback, by letting the pump prime for the full 2 seconds before turning the key all the way to the crank position.
do not ditch yer trans, it should be the 4t60eHD of which only the last year or two of the SI sc 3800 had, if you really want just swap in the chain set
the 94/95 heads are damn near SII heads as far as the rocker layout/stands you could do it but id suggest changing to the lighter SII spring retainers/beehive springs (maybe the blue/yellow ls2/ls6 springs as well)
keep in mind though that without a camshaft with better valve timing your not gonna gain anything over 5000 rpm....which kinda kills the ability to take advantage of the 3.69 fdr
do not ditch yer trans, it should be the 4t60eHD of which only the last year or two of the SI sc 3800 had, if you really want just swap in the chain set
the 94/95 heads are damn near SII heads as far as the rocker layout/stands you could do it but id suggest changing to the lighter SII spring retainers/beehive springs (maybe the blue/yellow ls2/ls6 springs as well)
keep in mind though that without a camshaft with better valve timing your not gonna gain anything over 5000 rpm....which kinda kills the ability to take advantage of the 3.69 fdr
If the pump is real close to being sufficient than I believe I could get a bit more output by driving it directly off the alternator which puts out 14.4 volts. I'm not versed on how to wire this exactly, I'd have to get smart on that. I've see the graphs on the difference, it's quite a bit. I know there are products like the Kenny Bell boost-a-pump but I'm on the zero money spent on hardware budget. And of course the pump will be under more strain and wear out quicker.
Run a fat wire from the alternator to the pump (along the fuel lines is easiest). Splice in a relay that is triggered by the old power wire.
https://www.enginebasics.com/Advanced Engine Tuning/fuel pump relay.html
Also install a temporary fuel pressure gauge that you can see from inside the car (tape it to the windshield). Take a drive, go WOT and see if the pressure maintains or drops off at high RPM. If it doesn't drop off, you have enough pressure and flow. No need for more.
That is something I have considered greatly that is activated by boost pressure. More things to research, lol
Fuel Pressure Regulator modification
I looked that up and it seems like a great idea, unless anyone can give reasons not to do it, I'll be doing that.
I looked that up and it seems like a great idea, unless anyone can give reasons not to do it, I'll be doing that.
Last edited:
I flipped the torsion keys and it dropped the truck frame right on top of the A-arms giving me 0" of suspension travel. So I had to bend the A-arms to drop under the frame then back up, kind of like a banana.
I jacked up the truck, put a 1" socket between the frame and A-arm then removed the jack. Then heated up the A-arm with a torch until it bent under the trucks weight. Then repeated to the other three points of contact, then back around to alla second time. In the end I now have 2" of clearance.
I jacked up the truck, put a 1" socket between the frame and A-arm then removed the jack. Then heated up the A-arm with a torch until it bent under the trucks weight. Then repeated to the other three points of contact, then back around to alla second time. In the end I now have 2" of clearance.
Reader's Ride of the Week
My project made Reader's Ride of the Week
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/readers-ride-busuzu/
On a separate note, I bought Intense Racing's PCM adapter and chip for the PCM.
I also got all the pieces I need for a water/methanol injection.
Lastly, does anyone know if there are lighter and stronger OEM pistons and rods that can be swapped into the Series 1? For example, Series 3 forged pistons with xxx rods that are narrowed...
My project made Reader's Ride of the Week
https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/news/readers-ride-busuzu/
On a separate note, I bought Intense Racing's PCM adapter and chip for the PCM.
I also got all the pieces I need for a water/methanol injection.
Lastly, does anyone know if there are lighter and stronger OEM pistons and rods that can be swapped into the Series 1? For example, Series 3 forged pistons with xxx rods that are narrowed...
Thread Info
-
Created -
40Replies
-
3KViews
-
Participants list
