3800 L36 running low 14s

I

imported_Ron Vogel

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If you are going for pure speed get N20...Take your budget money and throw it in a checking account. Buy a big N20 kit. Keep stepping up the N20 until you break something, then take out budget money to fix what broke. If you want a "pure" N/A, 14 second timeslips will need a big cam and high flow in/out. If you want 13's, sell the GT, and get a GTP (it would be cheaper) or take apart the motor now and put a lot of work into the heads after the supporting mods are done. I don't mean to belittle your efforts, but you have to call a spade a spade. There are a lot of people doing great things with the GT's, but the investment is serious money. I've had an 11 second car before ($15k in motor) and after all that it still felt slow. When I need to go really fast, I hop on the bike ($9500 out the door+ $500 in mods = 9 second 1/4 miles)
 

antpearl

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Nov 21, 2008
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Palatine
I think your expectations of getting a GT into the low 14's is are a little high. First of all, the most efficient way to make up time in the 1/4 is the launch. Which pretty much means you'd have to go with a CYA or Intense LSD which I didn't see listed. Those are quite pricey. Second, the trans in the GT is shit, so you have to upgrade that as well. Third, the horsepower gain from a cam is quite nice, however, its not just $299 for the cam. You're looking at 2 install kits, one for $269 and the other for $80. Then, you gotta pay to install it b/c it isn't as easy as some mods. Not to mention, your fuel system will be inadequate at best if you're trying to make huge power, which means you'll need injectors and a new pump. I believe casper's has some modification to help boost your current output, but I don't know anything about that. ZZP is also doing research on how to lighten these beasts without damaging their integrity. There is something you should seriously look into. Also, when doing your cam you pretty much have to do your timing chain and it would be agood time to do the water pump and the engine mounts. To utilize the CSC to its fullest potention, and correct me if I'm wrong, you would need some serious tuning and probably some internal modifications so you don't end up with a piston in your seat. YOu can contact ZZP or Intense as well as 3800 Performance if you want details on what is best to buy with what, and what combo's will not damage your vehicle. Again, Mr. Vogel is probably the most correct with N2O suggestion, best bang for the buck right there.
 

sweetness

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Nov 12, 2008
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You don't need to do internal mods to an L36 to get 13's, but that is going to be your limit on stock internals. after that you should really just buy a used L67 because by the time you are done with buying and installing forged internals you are going to be really close to the cost of getting a L67, which has lower compression and will repond to boost a lot better and safer. But antpearl is right... if you want to wringe the most power out of that engine it is going to require forged internals, new injectors,new fuel pump, some head work and some custom tuning. to get 14's though... save up around $3k and wait until spring/early summer.



BC
 

Fish

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It all depends on the car once again to turn 14s. Look at antpearl. His time blew me away. Im not saying Im more modified than him or vice versa. It all depends on how the car reacts to the mods you do and how you drive it. Gotta take it to the track and see what your baseline is and see what you have to do or can do to achieve your goal. To touch 14s is stock GTP territory, which is what I want.

Our transmissions arent that bad. Just gotta get the HD upgrade and we will have a pretty hard time breaking them.
 

Fish

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I got this off of INTENSE's website.

Wes drives a 2000 Grand Prix GT with modified L67 throttle body, INTENSE™ Stage 2 normally aspirated Cam, INTENSE™ Stage 2 cylinder heads and port-matched lower intake manifold, CompCams lifters, INTENSE™ lightweight pushrods, INTENSE™ high-stall torque converter, 3.69:1 gears, INTENSE™ 4T65E-HD LSD, INTENSE™ race front brake kit, DHP custom PCM, colder spark plugs and thermostat, ZZP underdrive water pump pulley and complete induction and exhaust modifications.


Lots of money that I dont have. Hehe.
 

Royalgtp

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Dec 24, 2008
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Originally posted by Fish@Dec 18 2003, 12:56 PM
I got this off of INTENSE's website.

Wes drives a 2000 Grand Prix GT with modified L67 throttle body, INTENSE™ Stage 2 normally aspirated Cam, INTENSE™ Stage 2 cylinder heads and port-matched lower intake manifold, CompCams lifters, INTENSE™ lightweight pushrods, INTENSE™ high-stall torque converter, 3.69:1 gears, INTENSE™ 4T65E-HD LSD, INTENSE™ race front brake kit, DHP custom PCM, colder spark plugs and thermostat, ZZP underdrive water pump pulley and complete induction and exhaust modifications.


Lots of money that I dont have. Hehe.
liveonnitro.....

just buy a GTP or buy another car(F-body :D ). THats a ton of money to run high 13s........

Heck, some people have gotten high 13s in there GTPs with not much more then a 3.4 and a exhaust.

Ron vogel got into the 13s with a few hundred bucks i think...maybe less IIRC.
 
I

imported_Ron Vogel

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13.90's = $60 u-bend removed, $50 3.4" pulley, $40 K&N filter, $80 spark plugs & wires, $15 race gas, $25 track fee. Total= $270.00

13.80's = $225 jet-hot coated ported manifolds, FWI $30, mini-afc $99 Total= $354

13.70's = $0 better air, $0 3.25" pulley (traded for old stock manifolds)

The rest of the work was free that I did myself, my best guess with current mods is 13.50's, but I am beta testing some stuff and won a free pcm so there is no real cost involved.
 

Fish

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Originally posted by RoyalGTP+Dec 18 2003, 03:25 PM--></div><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (RoyalGTP @ Dec 18 2003, 03:25 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-Fish@Dec 18 2003, 12:56 PM
I got this off of INTENSE's website.

Wes drives a 2000 Grand Prix GT with modified L67 throttle body, INTENSE™ Stage 2 normally aspirated Cam, INTENSE™ Stage 2 cylinder heads and port-matched lower intake manifold, CompCams lifters, INTENSE™ lightweight pushrods, INTENSE™ high-stall torque converter, 3.69:1 gears, INTENSE™ 4T65E-HD LSD, INTENSE™ race front brake kit, DHP custom PCM, colder spark plugs and thermostat, ZZP underdrive water pump pulley and complete induction and exhaust modifications.


Lots of money that I dont have. Hehe.
liveonnitro.....

just buy a GTP or buy another car(F-body :D ). THats a ton of money to run high 13s........

Heck, some people have gotten high 13s in there GTPs with not much more then a 3.4 and a exhaust.

Ron vogel got into the 13s with a few hundred bucks i think...maybe less IIRC. [/b][/quote]
If you wanna run 13s that would be the cheapest. Now if you dont care about money, then stay with your GT.
 

iliveonnitro

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Nov 11, 2008
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The only problem is, people that want to race for money on the street never want to race a super or turbocharged car, or a car that sprays. They all want to see under the hood before they put money down.

And for $3000 putting into my car, I'd somehow prefer to just buy this:
http://autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=1...or=&cardist=200

or

http://autotrader.com/fyc/vdp.jsp?car_id=1...or=&cardist=200

At least those run what GTP's do stock, but not supercharged...but then again, I know I'd wind up putting shitloads of money into it. Sigh, this is tough stuff :(
 
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