Hey folks. Noob here. I was referred here by the affable Dan00Hawk. 
After browsing around a bit, I wanted to at least post about my T/A.
In my humble, yet biased opinion, this car is probably better suited for someone who knows their way around these types cars, and is willing to purchase it in order to
1) rehab it or
2) take off the parts you need.
I would rather not part it out myself.
A few notes before I get into what I've installed. I want to be honest about what itās been through over the years:
1) 1994 Trans Am "GT" - I purchased from Harbor Pontiac (in Scumburg) in late Summer of ā99 (had less than 30k miles at the time, if I remember correctly);
2) Current mileage: 66XXX;
3) The previous owner was likely in an accident on the passenger side, which I didn't notice until much later. The passenger door paint began flaking on the underside of the trim piece that runs horizontally on the door, and it's teal underneath. In addition, whoever fixed the passenger fender did a poor job as they "pulled" the rear passenger fender outward so that they had to insert extra shims in the door jamb so the door would "catch" when closed. If you look at the car from the back, you'll notice that the passenger rear fender flares out just slightly more than the driver's side fender.
Itās cosmetic, but just an FYI;
4) I put it into a curb at the end of my street. The only damage was to the driver's side hub (I replaced both front hubs - see below), but I didn't replace the tie rod, which is bent - therefore there is still "toe out" of Biblical proportions.
5) I have not bled the brakes since I installed LS1 brakes and BMR a-arms (see below).
6) The car wouldnāt hold a charge with the Optima red-top battery (worst purchase evar!), so I just installed a new Die Hard this past weekend. Car starts and idles fine.
In other words, you will not be able to test drive this car, nor will you be able to drive this car off my property if you buy it.
Therefore, I WILL PAY UP TO $200 FOR A FLATBED TOW TRUCK to remove the car from my property.
NOTES RE: INSTALLED MODS/PARTS:
MTI Stage 3 LT4 GTP heads (runners ported, but not combustion chambers - no idea why). I bought them from a friend of "chevyguy3" (not sure what message boards he's on nowadays). Apparently, the previous owner put these heads and a CC306 on a '95 T/A 'vert and did high 11ās.
I had Mike at Hi-Flow Heads (in Alsip) clean them up. However, due to the combustion chambers not being ported, this is a significant "choke point."
Completely port these heads, get a full valve job, and combine it with a big cam, and the car will breathe much better, and should move very well.
The heads have:
Ferrea valves (2.05/1.6);
Bronze guideplates;
Crane dual springs;
Jim Miller 1.6 rocker arms;
Comp "R" lifters;
Trickflow 7.45" pushrods;
Cam: CompCams 223/223 .565/.565 112 LSA (custom "xtreme grind")
NOTES regarding the cam: I wanted to have one that was streetable, but more aggressive than the hotcam, and able to pass emissions (this was before the IL enviro-nazis got smart and stopped roller-testing OBDI cars).
Even with a quick-and-dirty tune from Speed, Inc., I failed emissions, and had to get an exemption. The combination of this cam and heads is not ideal. The car has always idled well, and sounds great, but it runs very rich (bad gas mileage), and the exhaust even made Dan00Hawk gag as he was driving behind me in his convertible Firehawk (he can confirm).
I still have the stock cam and heads lying around if you want them.
Other items I installed:
LT4 Extreme Duty timing set;
Ported LT4 intake (red);
BBK 58mm TB;
1LE intake elbow (vented for opti);
1LE pulley;
!A/C;
!AIR;
!EGR;
!!!!!!!!!CAGS;
MSD Blaster Coil;
Vented Optish*t (with matching timing cover);
Hooker shorties (p/n 2062-1);
Breslin header bolts (3/4"). These are bolts that have a hex key screw within the heads - after tightening the bolts, you tighten the screws so the bolts don't back out - they seem to work very well;
ATR cat-back;
LPE CAI;
FLP off-road pipe and FLP hi-flow cat (can be swapped in and out as desired);
Hypertech 160* t-stat;
SVO 30# injectors;
Alpine CD player (DIN 1.5, model #CDA-D857);
SLP short shifter with "Lou's Short Stick" (absolutely love this shifter);
SLP Firehawk rims (17x9, alloy 5-spoke). When I received them from SLP, the outer edge on two of them had a slight dent - very minor, and I didn't want to deal with the hassle of returning them;
Koni adjustable shocks;
Hotchkis 1" lowering springs;
BMR panhard bar (red);
BMR front and rear swaybars (red);
BMR a-arms (red);
LS1 brake upgrade (spindles and calipers - the calipers are spray-painted red, and the paint is flaking);
Powerslot rotors (I installed the front rotors when I did the LS1 brake upgrade - they still need to be properly bedded. The rears are still in the box);
Brand new front hubs (brand āSKFā - purchased from Napa);
NOTE: I have not driven the car, nor has it had an alignment since I installed the hubs, LS1 brakes, and BMR a-arms;
The NADA estimate for this car is a bit over $6k, but they're only considering the mileage, not the condition.
The Kelly Blue Book estimate for this car in "Good" condition is approx. $5500.
Considering that, plus all of the items I've installed, plus the prices at which similar T/As on Vehix and Cars.com are selling at (with much higher mileage), I believe $5500 is reasonable.
I have a couple misc. items lying around as well - a pdf of the official parts list, which I can burn onto disc and provide to you.
In addition, I can provide you the Factory Service Manual.
I'm a noob around these parts, but I've been associated with the MFBA since Fall of '99, so bid with confidence!
Interested? Questions? Comments? Snide remarks?
Anything Iām forgetting?
Reply in this thread or PM me.
Thanks...
//Steve-o
P.S. Pics to follow...
After browsing around a bit, I wanted to at least post about my T/A.In my humble, yet biased opinion, this car is probably better suited for someone who knows their way around these types cars, and is willing to purchase it in order to
1) rehab it or
2) take off the parts you need.
I would rather not part it out myself.
A few notes before I get into what I've installed. I want to be honest about what itās been through over the years:
1) 1994 Trans Am "GT" - I purchased from Harbor Pontiac (in Scumburg) in late Summer of ā99 (had less than 30k miles at the time, if I remember correctly);
2) Current mileage: 66XXX;
3) The previous owner was likely in an accident on the passenger side, which I didn't notice until much later. The passenger door paint began flaking on the underside of the trim piece that runs horizontally on the door, and it's teal underneath. In addition, whoever fixed the passenger fender did a poor job as they "pulled" the rear passenger fender outward so that they had to insert extra shims in the door jamb so the door would "catch" when closed. If you look at the car from the back, you'll notice that the passenger rear fender flares out just slightly more than the driver's side fender.
Itās cosmetic, but just an FYI;
4) I put it into a curb at the end of my street. The only damage was to the driver's side hub (I replaced both front hubs - see below), but I didn't replace the tie rod, which is bent - therefore there is still "toe out" of Biblical proportions.
5) I have not bled the brakes since I installed LS1 brakes and BMR a-arms (see below).
6) The car wouldnāt hold a charge with the Optima red-top battery (worst purchase evar!), so I just installed a new Die Hard this past weekend. Car starts and idles fine.
In other words, you will not be able to test drive this car, nor will you be able to drive this car off my property if you buy it.
Therefore, I WILL PAY UP TO $200 FOR A FLATBED TOW TRUCK to remove the car from my property.
NOTES RE: INSTALLED MODS/PARTS:
MTI Stage 3 LT4 GTP heads (runners ported, but not combustion chambers - no idea why). I bought them from a friend of "chevyguy3" (not sure what message boards he's on nowadays). Apparently, the previous owner put these heads and a CC306 on a '95 T/A 'vert and did high 11ās.
I had Mike at Hi-Flow Heads (in Alsip) clean them up. However, due to the combustion chambers not being ported, this is a significant "choke point."
Completely port these heads, get a full valve job, and combine it with a big cam, and the car will breathe much better, and should move very well.
The heads have:
Ferrea valves (2.05/1.6);
Bronze guideplates;
Crane dual springs;
Jim Miller 1.6 rocker arms;
Comp "R" lifters;
Trickflow 7.45" pushrods;
Cam: CompCams 223/223 .565/.565 112 LSA (custom "xtreme grind")
NOTES regarding the cam: I wanted to have one that was streetable, but more aggressive than the hotcam, and able to pass emissions (this was before the IL enviro-nazis got smart and stopped roller-testing OBDI cars).
Even with a quick-and-dirty tune from Speed, Inc., I failed emissions, and had to get an exemption. The combination of this cam and heads is not ideal. The car has always idled well, and sounds great, but it runs very rich (bad gas mileage), and the exhaust even made Dan00Hawk gag as he was driving behind me in his convertible Firehawk (he can confirm).
I still have the stock cam and heads lying around if you want them.
Other items I installed:
LT4 Extreme Duty timing set;
Ported LT4 intake (red);
BBK 58mm TB;
1LE intake elbow (vented for opti);
1LE pulley;
!A/C;
!AIR;
!EGR;
!!!!!!!!!CAGS;
MSD Blaster Coil;
Vented Optish*t (with matching timing cover);
Hooker shorties (p/n 2062-1);
Breslin header bolts (3/4"). These are bolts that have a hex key screw within the heads - after tightening the bolts, you tighten the screws so the bolts don't back out - they seem to work very well;
ATR cat-back;
LPE CAI;
FLP off-road pipe and FLP hi-flow cat (can be swapped in and out as desired);
Hypertech 160* t-stat;
SVO 30# injectors;
Alpine CD player (DIN 1.5, model #CDA-D857);
SLP short shifter with "Lou's Short Stick" (absolutely love this shifter);
SLP Firehawk rims (17x9, alloy 5-spoke). When I received them from SLP, the outer edge on two of them had a slight dent - very minor, and I didn't want to deal with the hassle of returning them;
Koni adjustable shocks;
Hotchkis 1" lowering springs;
BMR panhard bar (red);
BMR front and rear swaybars (red);
BMR a-arms (red);
LS1 brake upgrade (spindles and calipers - the calipers are spray-painted red, and the paint is flaking);
Powerslot rotors (I installed the front rotors when I did the LS1 brake upgrade - they still need to be properly bedded. The rears are still in the box);
Brand new front hubs (brand āSKFā - purchased from Napa);
NOTE: I have not driven the car, nor has it had an alignment since I installed the hubs, LS1 brakes, and BMR a-arms;
The NADA estimate for this car is a bit over $6k, but they're only considering the mileage, not the condition.
The Kelly Blue Book estimate for this car in "Good" condition is approx. $5500.
Considering that, plus all of the items I've installed, plus the prices at which similar T/As on Vehix and Cars.com are selling at (with much higher mileage), I believe $5500 is reasonable.
I have a couple misc. items lying around as well - a pdf of the official parts list, which I can burn onto disc and provide to you.
In addition, I can provide you the Factory Service Manual.
I'm a noob around these parts, but I've been associated with the MFBA since Fall of '99, so bid with confidence!
Interested? Questions? Comments? Snide remarks?
Anything Iām forgetting?
Reply in this thread or PM me.
Thanks...
//Steve-o
P.S. Pics to follow...
