BrokenGSR's 2004 Evo 8 build

Welp.... brokengsr bought a 04 evo back in 2004, beat the hell out of it, did a few mods. Slowly the car started loosing boost @ WOT. We where a bit stumped and young then not knowing much about cars. He became lazy on fixing it and needed a car to drive so he went and bought a 05 GTO, thus leaving the Evo to sit for 5 years in his garage untouched.

We finally made him release it from hibernation to fix it. Finally got it over to the shop, put it back together, still had boost issues. pulled the exhuast and tested... and BOOM! 22psi! Damn cat was plugged. WIERD.

So he bought more goodies, took it to AMS to be tuned, they said it seemed to be acting up abit so it was tuned to 21psi, 270awhp. not bad for a intake,exhuast,mbc, bov car.

Well it drove the weekend... then stopped. Car would start and then imdediately die.CEL throws crank sensor. we yank it out to see its chewed. put in a new 120$ sensor, to start the car and blow taht one too. We watch the crank pulley while depressing the clutch...to what do we find.... CRANKWALK! So now its time to rebuild a whole new motor. ( FYI this car doesnt even have 19,000miles on it yet)

Rebuild is under way, hopefully back in car tomorrow evening if all goes well. Then back to AMS for a retune and maybe more boost!

Build:

2004 Evo 8 Stock shortblock , honed, checked
Stock Turbo
Stock rods and pistons
Aftermarket piston rings
ARP Headstud kit
Stock cleane and checked crank
All new gasket kit
Invidia 3" Turboback
Buschur Racing Intake
HKS SSQV BOV
AEM Wideband
Walbro 255lph fuel pump
Seibon CF hood

Pics:

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old crank endcap girdle. bearings are toasted. When we opened the oil pan we found half of the Thrust washer just laying in the pan. Crank had over .25inch of front to back movement!

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more to come....
 

Outlaw

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Jul 24, 2009
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C.Evans

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May 21, 2011
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correct a dial bore and micro will measure your block, crank and bearing tollerances but plastigauge is good for seeing torqued/loaded pressure for clearances. everything was checked before hand and alot of the torque is a ft/lb +90. which is where plasti is nice to see the true tolerance once torqued.

What's wrong with just torquing the main caps in the block, and rod caps in a vice to the ft/lb +90 with the bearings installed and then measuring? Measure the i.d. of the rod and main bearings after they've been torqued and then subtract the measurement of the crank. BAM! 100% accurate oil clearance reading as long as you know how to subtract. :dunno:
 

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