HELP!!!! 03 Gt 5speed
- Thread starter John46307
- Start date
Well, I was thinking maybe one of the pinouts might be loose or dirty if they computer was swapped but considering no its prolly not.
At the battery you should see 2 small black wires coming off the main. Make sure its grounded GOOD!
Disconnect the bat for 10 min.
So the fuel pump wont turnon when you have the key to on?
Check the pinout for the fuel pump at the computer. See if you have power there. I think there is a pinout chart on here somewhere.
At the battery you should see 2 small black wires coming off the main. Make sure its grounded GOOD!
Disconnect the bat for 10 min.
So the fuel pump wont turnon when you have the key to on?
Check the pinout for the fuel pump at the computer. See if you have power there. I think there is a pinout chart on here somewhere.
No, you cant hear the fuel pump at all and the only way it works is when you jumper the wires. I do have a diagram for the fuel pump and i checked the pins. I did hear from a ford tech that these cars have three computers that tell the fuel pump to come on. I also heard that the odometer will flash 6 dashes if the computer has lost program or a tune. All the wiring looks ok.
I talked to Art Hill Ford on Friday and the service guy was a dick and said that they wouldn't work on anything that wasn't done by them and wouldn't even look at it. I think my car has been cursed! I ordered the first engine from a place in Wisconsin and they said it came with a warranty and a car fax, two months latter i get an engine from the wrong year and it looked like it had been thrown off of a building, the timing cover had a big hole in it both valve covers were missing and everything that it came with was broken, worst of all it would only turn 260 degrees and the pistons hit the valves!
My fault for taking someones word! h: Two years and several thousand dollars latter i finally get a good motor and this happens! lol! Sorry, just venting! If anyone knows any tricks or a Ford tech that can help me out let me know. Thanks in advance!
My fault for taking someones word! h: Two years and several thousand dollars latter i finally get a good motor and this happens! lol! Sorry, just venting! If anyone knows any tricks or a Ford tech that can help me out let me know. Thanks in advance!
Sounds pretty lame they wouldnt look at it. Sorry, I'm not a tech but still trying to help ya anyways.
Do you have a scan tool? See if there are any codes?
Did you find the fuel pump pin location on the computer yet? Did you test to see if it had power to and from?
Also...Use a voltmeter to check
the voltage to the pin 1 on the computer - you should always have 12 volts. If you dont have a constant 12 volts thats not right.
As far as I know your computer cant relearn anything unless the car is working under normal driving condtions. And you cant do that because it wont start. Even if you reprogram the PCM it dont have any affect/impact on PATS from what I know.
Did you check the fuse for the Fuel pump in the engine bay? Its in the black plastic box on the drivers side between strut tower and the washer fluid lid. Also check the fuel pump relay. Its part of the CCRM (constant control relay modual). It should be on the drivers rear side near or infront of the inertia switch in side your trunk. You should only see voltage for a few seconds at most when key is set to on.
I have seen fans turn on like you mention when the computers or relays are messed up!
You dont have any aftermarket alarms or computer chips do you?
I know you said it cranks but do you have spark?
EDIT.. I found this info for you...
THE VEHICLE DOES NOT START AND THERE IS NORMAL PROVE-OUT OF THE THEFT INDICATOR AND DTC P1260 IS NOT STORED IN THE PCM, THEN THE VEHICLE HAS A NON-PATS RELATED ISSUE PREVENTING THE VEHICLE FROM STARTING.
NOTE:
IF THE VEHICLE (SYSTEM TYPES A, B, C, D ONLY) IS A NO START WITH THE THEFT LIGHT FLASHING AT IGNITION ON, AND WITH NO DTC P1260 STORED IN THE PCM, CHECK PCM POWER, GROUND, AND VREF CIRCUITS FOR OPENS OR SHORTS. THE PCM MAY NOT BE OPERATING PROPERLY.
NOTE:
IF THE ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK ON VEHICLES THAT HAVE PATS OPERATING THE STARTER RELAY, VERIFY PATS (PATS/ICM/SCIL) OUTPUT TO THE STARTER RELAY. ALSO VERIFY THE PATS POWER AND GROUND CIRCUITS.
NOTE:
BE AWARE THAT THE NEW PATS SYSTEM TYPES B, C, AND E (ON THE FOLLOWING CHART) OFFER AN ANTI-SCAN FEATURE. IF YOU ARE TRYING TO START A VEHICLE WITH AN UNPROGRAMMED PATS KEY, THE THEFT LIGHT EMITTING DIODE (LED) WILL FLASH RAPIDLY AND THE VEHICLE WILL NOT BE ABLE TO START. IN THIS CASE, LEAVE THE KEY IN THE RUN/START POSITION FOR 30 SECONDS FOR THE ANTI-SCAN FEATURE TO TIME OUT. IF THIS TIME-OUT IS NOT COMPLETED, THE VEHICLE WILL CONTINUE TO NOT START WITH EVEN A PROGRAMMED KEY.
Do you have a scan tool? See if there are any codes?
Did you find the fuel pump pin location on the computer yet? Did you test to see if it had power to and from?
Also...Use a voltmeter to check
the voltage to the pin 1 on the computer - you should always have 12 volts. If you dont have a constant 12 volts thats not right.
As far as I know your computer cant relearn anything unless the car is working under normal driving condtions. And you cant do that because it wont start. Even if you reprogram the PCM it dont have any affect/impact on PATS from what I know.
Did you check the fuse for the Fuel pump in the engine bay? Its in the black plastic box on the drivers side between strut tower and the washer fluid lid. Also check the fuel pump relay. Its part of the CCRM (constant control relay modual). It should be on the drivers rear side near or infront of the inertia switch in side your trunk. You should only see voltage for a few seconds at most when key is set to on.
I have seen fans turn on like you mention when the computers or relays are messed up!
You dont have any aftermarket alarms or computer chips do you?
I know you said it cranks but do you have spark?
EDIT.. I found this info for you...
THE VEHICLE DOES NOT START AND THERE IS NORMAL PROVE-OUT OF THE THEFT INDICATOR AND DTC P1260 IS NOT STORED IN THE PCM, THEN THE VEHICLE HAS A NON-PATS RELATED ISSUE PREVENTING THE VEHICLE FROM STARTING.
NOTE:
IF THE VEHICLE (SYSTEM TYPES A, B, C, D ONLY) IS A NO START WITH THE THEFT LIGHT FLASHING AT IGNITION ON, AND WITH NO DTC P1260 STORED IN THE PCM, CHECK PCM POWER, GROUND, AND VREF CIRCUITS FOR OPENS OR SHORTS. THE PCM MAY NOT BE OPERATING PROPERLY.
NOTE:
IF THE ENGINE DOES NOT CRANK ON VEHICLES THAT HAVE PATS OPERATING THE STARTER RELAY, VERIFY PATS (PATS/ICM/SCIL) OUTPUT TO THE STARTER RELAY. ALSO VERIFY THE PATS POWER AND GROUND CIRCUITS.
NOTE:
BE AWARE THAT THE NEW PATS SYSTEM TYPES B, C, AND E (ON THE FOLLOWING CHART) OFFER AN ANTI-SCAN FEATURE. IF YOU ARE TRYING TO START A VEHICLE WITH AN UNPROGRAMMED PATS KEY, THE THEFT LIGHT EMITTING DIODE (LED) WILL FLASH RAPIDLY AND THE VEHICLE WILL NOT BE ABLE TO START. IN THIS CASE, LEAVE THE KEY IN THE RUN/START POSITION FOR 30 SECONDS FOR THE ANTI-SCAN FEATURE TO TIME OUT. IF THIS TIME-OUT IS NOT COMPLETED, THE VEHICLE WILL CONTINUE TO NOT START WITH EVEN A PROGRAMMED KEY.
Thanks, i really appreciate your help! I don't have a scan tool handy now but i'm going to pick one up tomorrow. My buddy put one on it the the other day and it wouldn't connect but i want to try again to make sure it wasn't the tool. I did test power to the fuel pump and there ins no voltage going to it. Its weird i haven't changed anything with the computer or added any chips and no aftermarket alarm. All the grounds and pins look good too.
I don't have a scan tool handy now but i'm going to pick one up tomorrow. My buddy put one on it the the other day and it wouldn't connect but i want to try again to make sure it wasn't the tool. I did test power to the fuel pump and there ins no voltage going to it. Its weird i haven't changed anything with the computer or added any chips and no aftermarket alarm. All the grounds and pins look good too.
The dashes on the instrument cluster tell me that the pcm isn't getting power or ground.
Look for corrosion in the fuse box where the pcm fuse goes into it. Try clean it up and re-test. Also get the pinout diagram for the pcm and verify that it's getting power at the connector. If it's getting power, find out what pin is supposed to be ground and try jumping another ground wire to it.
If you were closer I would come by and lend a hand. But it's a long drive to crown point.
Look for corrosion in the fuse box where the pcm fuse goes into it. Try clean it up and re-test. Also get the pinout diagram for the pcm and verify that it's getting power at the connector. If it's getting power, find out what pin is supposed to be ground and try jumping another ground wire to it.
If you were closer I would come by and lend a hand. But it's a long drive to crown point.
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