reason for brake shudder
- Thread starter Maniak
- Start date
thats what i heard you say before but i wasn't sure.
getting a clicking noise when moving slowly onto uneven surfaces. im thinkin this is the wheel bearing?
I've put a bunch of rotors and drums on a brake lathe in my time (I didn't just fall off the turnip truck) and I can honestly say its one of those procedures that is done just to bilk the customer. The collet on a brake lathe can't by design get the rotor on straight enough for the cut to do what its supposed to do anyway.
Put a dial indicator on it and measure the face runout of the rotor. I bet its within spec. Don't take my word for it, try it yourself. Isolate and test. Isolate and test. Isolate and test.
Put a dial indicator on it and measure the face runout of the rotor. I bet its within spec. Don't take my word for it, try it yourself. Isolate and test. Isolate and test. Isolate and test.
Yea it is possible that you have warped rotors. I have been trying to diagnose a problem w my brakes for the past year and no one know what it is, everytime Im on a hill and roll backwards and step on the brake either the brake booster or something within the breaking system makes a loud thump sound. Weird but the car stops fine.
but the car stops fine.
I cant believe people think rotors don't warp under heat... If its a wheel bearing they can make noise not under braking as well. Turn or change the rotors and put new pads on and see what the result is. If there still is a shutter then look at the wheel bearings. Most wheel bearings need to be pressed in so its not as easy as doing a brake job. Also another common problem is calipers freezing up which will also cause the same symptoms. When the calipers are off make sure they will move completely out and in before putting it back together. If they don't have full movement then take them apart or get new ones.
to check this, i just have someone hit the brake pedal with the caliper off?
i was already going to put new pads and rotors on just wanted to see if this wasnt the issue.
You can do that, make sure the plunger doesn't come all the way off. I use a large c clamp, and when the plunger is out all the way start cranking it back in. Make sure that the bleed screw is open while doing this because pushing fluid back into the system and damage ABS components.
You will notice if the clamp is extremely hard to crank the plunger back something is wrong, normally go in 1/4 turn intervals till it bottems out. Hope this helps and makes sense...
interesting. when i did the brake job on my contour i did not open the bleeder when pushing the piston back in. will i have to bleed the system if i do this?
You might but it takes 5 min to do. You don't have to open the bleed screw on older cars but its a good habit to get into on newer cars. There is so many sensors on newer cars now that it can screw something up. If you don't just make sure the reservoir is open so the fluid has a place to go. The front might have two plungers so make sure you use something to hold both or use two clamps if not the other one will come out when compressing the other.
Rotor warping is a myth. Typically what happens is that you overheat the pad and leave a deposit of pad goo on the rotor. I've had this happen a few times when I used too cold of a pad at the track. The fix was to just run the track pads cold for a few weeks to smooth out the deposit. Street pads aren't agressive enough to do this, so you'll need to turn them or put on new rotors.
Other possible problems -
1) Loose caliper mount
2) bad strut
3) wheel bearing
Other possible problems -
1) Loose caliper mount
2) bad strut
3) wheel bearing
Turns out I am the ignorant one and will now put my foot in my mouth! I will print this article and bring it to my shop.
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