I have had it in my head for a while that S2000 rear shocks are very similar in shape/size to Civic rear shocks. Well...I installed KW V3s on my S2000 a couple years back...so my stock shocks were sitting around collecting dust. They only have about 20k-25k miles on them.
At the same time, my EM1's tokicos are garbage. I bought them about a 1.5 years ago and they rusted out the minute any salt touched them. The damping was also a little on the soft side. I've had Tokico blues before, and was happy with them. But for some reason, the ones I installed on my EM1 were just trash.
I've never seen it done...and I figured I'd atleast give it a try.
Anyway, here are some pics and installation details:
look at how badly the tokicos are rusted out. They're not tokico blues anymore. They're tokico oranges/browns.
Notice, however, that they look very similar. The distance between the LCA mounting points is the same as EG/DC shocks. So you'll need the 2 washers if you're doing this on an 96-00 chassis civic.
One difference is that the S2000 shocks have a bolt hole that accepts a 17mm head (M12?) bolt. The civic has a 14mm head (M10) bolt. So you'll have to break the welded nut off the S2000 shocks. It's easy. Put an impact on it and it will zip right off as if it wasn't even there.
The ground control sleeves from my civic fit the S2000 stock shocks LIKE A GLOVE. It's a light press fit. So I did grease up the inside of the coilover sleeve to prevent any rusting or bonding incase I need to remove them.
I also used the civic top mounts. Also use the civic's bump stop (I've cut the bumpstop prior) and use the civic's bump stop washer.
here are the shocks installed into the car:
It's a tight fit. At full droop, the caliper touches the shock. It doesn't touch it at ride height, though.
You will have to remove the brake dust shield that bolts to the trailing arm. Not the one behind the rotors, but the one that goes over the calipers.
The driver's side external reservior will hit the rubber cover for the fuel tank filler. I don't see it ever hitting the actual lines underneath the rubber sheath. So fuggedaboudit.
You'll want to use washers on the bottom bolt since the S2000 shock's hole is bigger than the civic's. You'll also want to use washers on the top mounts because the S2000 top mounts must be taller. The nut bottoms out before you can get good tension on the bushings.
My car is lowered on ground controls. I bought them used...I think the rates are 300F and 250R? Not sure on that, though. It's lowered semi conservatively. The tire is about the same level as the fender. No tucking. They're 205/45/16s. The front shocks are still stock EM1 units with 151k on them. They're not blown yet and they're in great condition. I'll probably get something adjustable to match the new rear shocks, though.
Here is the stance:
First drive impressions: The car is definately much stiffer out back. The steering response and the car's reaction to fast steering inputs is A LOT faster/better. The car needed some rear roll stiffness...even with the 22mm ITR rear bar, it understeered like crazy. My friend has taken it autocrossing and I've been to Gingerman with it. Understeer is the word of the day.
I'd like to get this thing on the track again and check it out. I will be getting some adjustable front shocks. The car is slightly more bouncy because the rear is so much stiffer than the front now. So it's a weird, almost see-saw kinda feeling when hitting bumps.
Why did I do this?
S2000 shocks are monotube with external reserviors (rear). They're made to handle semi high spring rates. The 00 model AP1 shocks are very similar to the CR shock valving. The stock CR springs are like 5k out back. So the shocks can handle a pretty good amount of spring rate. They're MUCH stiffer than the stock EM1 shocks or even a lot of "performance" civic shocks.
They're also shorter bodied than stock civic shocks. So you get better damping qualities when the car is lowered.
S2000 shocks are also available for dirty cheap if you want to do this to your car. Even brand new they're stupid cheap.
Note: I have only had this setup for a few hours lol. I've driven it around...no noises, no rubbing. But I'm not responsible for anything you do to your car. I don't know how it will work on other civic or integra chassis'. So feel free to try...just at your own risk.
At the same time, my EM1's tokicos are garbage. I bought them about a 1.5 years ago and they rusted out the minute any salt touched them. The damping was also a little on the soft side. I've had Tokico blues before, and was happy with them. But for some reason, the ones I installed on my EM1 were just trash.
I've never seen it done...and I figured I'd atleast give it a try.
Anyway, here are some pics and installation details:
look at how badly the tokicos are rusted out. They're not tokico blues anymore. They're tokico oranges/browns.
Notice, however, that they look very similar. The distance between the LCA mounting points is the same as EG/DC shocks. So you'll need the 2 washers if you're doing this on an 96-00 chassis civic.
One difference is that the S2000 shocks have a bolt hole that accepts a 17mm head (M12?) bolt. The civic has a 14mm head (M10) bolt. So you'll have to break the welded nut off the S2000 shocks. It's easy. Put an impact on it and it will zip right off as if it wasn't even there.
The ground control sleeves from my civic fit the S2000 stock shocks LIKE A GLOVE. It's a light press fit. So I did grease up the inside of the coilover sleeve to prevent any rusting or bonding incase I need to remove them.
I also used the civic top mounts. Also use the civic's bump stop (I've cut the bumpstop prior) and use the civic's bump stop washer.
here are the shocks installed into the car:
It's a tight fit. At full droop, the caliper touches the shock. It doesn't touch it at ride height, though.
You will have to remove the brake dust shield that bolts to the trailing arm. Not the one behind the rotors, but the one that goes over the calipers.
The driver's side external reservior will hit the rubber cover for the fuel tank filler. I don't see it ever hitting the actual lines underneath the rubber sheath. So fuggedaboudit.
You'll want to use washers on the bottom bolt since the S2000 shock's hole is bigger than the civic's. You'll also want to use washers on the top mounts because the S2000 top mounts must be taller. The nut bottoms out before you can get good tension on the bushings.
My car is lowered on ground controls. I bought them used...I think the rates are 300F and 250R? Not sure on that, though. It's lowered semi conservatively. The tire is about the same level as the fender. No tucking. They're 205/45/16s. The front shocks are still stock EM1 units with 151k on them. They're not blown yet and they're in great condition. I'll probably get something adjustable to match the new rear shocks, though.
Here is the stance:
First drive impressions: The car is definately much stiffer out back. The steering response and the car's reaction to fast steering inputs is A LOT faster/better. The car needed some rear roll stiffness...even with the 22mm ITR rear bar, it understeered like crazy. My friend has taken it autocrossing and I've been to Gingerman with it. Understeer is the word of the day.
I'd like to get this thing on the track again and check it out. I will be getting some adjustable front shocks. The car is slightly more bouncy because the rear is so much stiffer than the front now. So it's a weird, almost see-saw kinda feeling when hitting bumps.
Why did I do this?
S2000 shocks are monotube with external reserviors (rear). They're made to handle semi high spring rates. The 00 model AP1 shocks are very similar to the CR shock valving. The stock CR springs are like 5k out back. So the shocks can handle a pretty good amount of spring rate. They're MUCH stiffer than the stock EM1 shocks or even a lot of "performance" civic shocks.
They're also shorter bodied than stock civic shocks. So you get better damping qualities when the car is lowered.
S2000 shocks are also available for dirty cheap if you want to do this to your car. Even brand new they're stupid cheap.
Note: I have only had this setup for a few hours lol. I've driven it around...no noises, no rubbing. But I'm not responsible for anything you do to your car. I don't know how it will work on other civic or integra chassis'. So feel free to try...just at your own risk.
