timing/nitrous
- Thread starter ldyzluvdis06
- Start date
rule of thumb is 2* per 50shot, and i want to pull 1* extra just to be safe because my race car is my daily driver car.
appreciate the opinion...but, it is my DD. 93 is expensive enough with my fuel economy, screw buying 100 for daily driving.
okay, so let's say 5 degrees. how much will i actually notice 5-7* of timing. you said you lost mph and et, how much did it drop? all in the same day or was it different days with different conditions? i will put it on the dyno and have some tuning and work, but im trying to decide if i should sell the timing box before hand and just pull the timing all the time
I am not sure what gas is like a town away but I don't know of any 100 octane gas around here anyways. It is either 93 or e85. Springfield is filled wih a bunch of boring old people that drive a Porsche goin 60 and think they are fast. There isn't much to anything taylored to car enthusiasts here.
I really have no good input as I have not used nitrous but cautious isn't a bad idea due to frequent use of the vehicle.
I really have no good input as I have not used nitrous but cautious isn't a bad idea due to frequent use of the vehicle.
U don't need to run 100 octane at all times,only when u intend to spray it. I agree 7* is a lot to pull out,and I'm gonna say ur Def gonna notice a difference in the cars power. If ur worried about timing,Nd hurting the car,jet the kit down and be safe. No need to start at 150.
Id say hook the kit up,keep ur timing box,put it on the rollers,and be safe. To much timing being pulled,will also cause the car to not gain as much on the hose either.
Example:
My 79 mustang had a plate kit,good to 300. I pulled 4* for 150,and that got boring,so we jetted it to 250,and pulled a total of 8* of timing. I only went 4 tenths quicker. My Tuner read the plugs,put the car back at 4*,I gained just over a second on 250,added more timing,and picked up 1.5.
Id say hook the kit up,keep ur timing box,put it on the rollers,and be safe. To much timing being pulled,will also cause the car to not gain as much on the hose either.
Example:
My 79 mustang had a plate kit,good to 300. I pulled 4* for 150,and that got boring,so we jetted it to 250,and pulled a total of 8* of timing. I only went 4 tenths quicker. My Tuner read the plugs,put the car back at 4*,I gained just over a second on 250,added more timing,and picked up 1.5.
Agreed. Different combinations have different knock thresholds. You won't know that until you/your tuner gets the car on the dyno and datalogs it to see at what spark advance knock occurs while on the shot. Then back it off a degree for safety and lock her down.
Remember that this is a VERY VERY general rule of thumb (read ultra-safe). Most cars will not require nearly as much timing pulled even while running on 93 pump.
I suggest that you keep some sort of way to retard timing while on the shot, but allow full timing while not. I posted a HOW TO on LS1Tech in the Nitrous section a few months back about how to go about making your own nitrous timing retard box for about $30 and also detailed the corresponding VCM tunefile changes needed to make it work. If you are willing to do a little simple electrical work you could save a little money by building that and then sell your other timing retard box to get more money back for the tune.
Pulling the timing all the time may be ok for a track only car where you spray nitrous every single run, but not for a street/strip car where 99% of the time you are running N/A. So if you don't build that nitrous timing retard box I previously mentioned then keep your existing timing retard box and use it.
I also agree that if this is your first foray into nitrous to start a little smaller. A 150 shot isn't that big, but for a new user I suggest starting out around a 100 shot or smaller to get used to it. Wet systems put down one hell of allot of torque increase, so while you may only be gaining 150hp you will most likely be gaining over 200lb/ft of torque. That torque is what gets most new nitrous users in trouble and heading for the guard rails.
While we are on the subject, how do you plan to control the shot? RPM window switch and TPS switch, progressive controller, or some other way?
You can do what I was going to do, I got a Lingenfelter box for timing control and you can retard the timing when your going to spray with it. I lost like 37 RWHP from droping the 7 degrees of timing on the dyno on a motor run. The car over all felt sluggish and would only pull mid-high RPM range. Thats why I ended up wanting to get a LNC-002.
wow, great post rocket, i appreciate you taking the time to write it up. the box i have is indeed the Lingenfelter box, apolly.
i guess i will go ahead and just keep the box, i dont really need the money for the tune, but i figured i might as well sell it. i guess i was wrong lol.
also rocky, i have a a msd digital window switch along with a WOT switch.
i guess i will go ahead and just keep the box, i dont really need the money for the tune, but i figured i might as well sell it. i guess i was wrong lol.
also rocky, i have a a msd digital window switch along with a WOT switch.
fyi, andy in case you ever wanted to run it...if you go out to buds corner (down the airport road heading to Athens) they have like 104 octane or something like that. i used to run it every now and then "back in the day"
I ran my 2001 Camaro with a 125 dry shot with no timing pulled years ago but... The table on the 2001-2002 f-bodies had only 19* of timing at WOT vs 2000 and earlier cars had timing tables that ran 28* timing. I think it was GM's way being sure the Camaro was a little slower than the Vette after the F-body got the LS6 intake and a small part of the reason why I just shake my head when guys say they don't need a tune.
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