gm 3.1 coolant leak
- Thread starter The Bluegrass Nomad
- Start date
http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k26/bblazer18/IMAG0069.jpg
It is the line under the split lines. Metal line going to thermostat housing. Not the best picture but all I can get. No it is not a rubber bypass line, nor does it go to the throttle body.
It is the line under the split lines. Metal line going to thermostat housing. Not the best picture but all I can get. No it is not a rubber bypass line, nor does it go to the throttle body.
It's been so long since I've worked on a 3.1MPFI. We had one in our garage for the longest but thats now gone. I trying to picture what part this is. I know the 3100 motors put a quick disconnect in there that tends to leak. However I dont see that in this picture. Yard or make it yourself. Hopefully BrianG will chime in. He knows em better than I do
thats the long type fitting, iirc you cant get the "short fitting" anymore but rarely it the housing thats bad just the oring and of course the quick release clip breaks when you go to remove it. all you do is pull the old clip and oring and two plastic spacer rings (buttress's for the oring) sometimes its just an inner buttress, oring and the clip assembly as im almost sure thats what the "short" quick conect fittings are, they stopped using em and mainly stuck with the larger unit.
some fittings have a restrictor plug all the way atthe base of the stack, dont fuck with it, install the parts from the new fitting into the old housing
if the tube is fucked you delete it. try to removethe fitting, by rotating it, DO NOT twist it off the thread axis, or else!, if it snaps, you didnt listen to me did you? then a cheap harbor freight miniairsaw can cut and quarter it where you can knock it out in 4 chunks and save the threads (all ya need is rtv during final assembly unless you really "fuckitup") then you use a 1/2npt 45 and a 5.8ths 1/2npt hose nip and some reg 5/8ths off the roll heater hose.
shop around not all npt fittings will have enough clearance to thread em in next to the lim so sometimes you have to clock say two 45* fittings with the outer edge ground off to make a 90 and have rtv coated hands.
this is the rustbelt, if its the steel tube corroded through, good luck finding a nice one in the boneyard. good luck at the dealer, even if theyhave it the brass/pipe fittings is usually cheaper and ive had good luck pulling them out intact over the years by removing it with the engine hot and tq'ing in line with the threads and not shatter it.
do you feel lucky?
some fittings have a restrictor plug all the way atthe base of the stack, dont fuck with it, install the parts from the new fitting into the old housing
if the tube is fucked you delete it. try to removethe fitting, by rotating it, DO NOT twist it off the thread axis, or else!, if it snaps, you didnt listen to me did you? then a cheap harbor freight miniairsaw can cut and quarter it where you can knock it out in 4 chunks and save the threads (all ya need is rtv during final assembly unless you really "fuckitup") then you use a 1/2npt 45 and a 5.8ths 1/2npt hose nip and some reg 5/8ths off the roll heater hose.
shop around not all npt fittings will have enough clearance to thread em in next to the lim so sometimes you have to clock say two 45* fittings with the outer edge ground off to make a 90 and have rtv coated hands.
this is the rustbelt, if its the steel tube corroded through, good luck finding a nice one in the boneyard. good luck at the dealer, even if theyhave it the brass/pipe fittings is usually cheaper and ive had good luck pulling them out intact over the years by removing it with the engine hot and tq'ing in line with the threads and not shatter it.
do you feel lucky?
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