James step in.
- Thread starter Larz01
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the crank gear get the pocket cleaned up to a nice square shoulder at 1.815+" id (the od of the crank shoulder) and the chambfer at the keyway area enlarged to ~1/32nd past the tits of the keyway slots.
then it is installed and measure the block to gear face distance, do the same with the cam gear temporarily installed, after accounting for crank and cam endplay, machine/surface grind the difference off the backside thrust face of the cam gear.
unless your good at assembly/gaskets i wouldnt suggest that gasket mod.
i do that to increase the area of that passage in the necked down area and i only do it on motors where i use the steel/silicone felpro cover gasket against the block then put the gm gasket on with everything coated in permatex aviation sealer and tighten it carefully to make sure the gasket doesnt squeeze out.
then it is installed and measure the block to gear face distance, do the same with the cam gear temporarily installed, after accounting for crank and cam endplay, machine/surface grind the difference off the backside thrust face of the cam gear.
unless your good at assembly/gaskets i wouldnt suggest that gasket mod.
i do that to increase the area of that passage in the necked down area and i only do it on motors where i use the steel/silicone felpro cover gasket against the block then put the gm gasket on with everything coated in permatex aviation sealer and tighten it carefully to make sure the gasket doesnt squeeze out.
When you take material off the backside of the cam gear to get them to align, the chamfer isn't as deep as it was prior. Like in picture above. Do you add the chamfer back to the gear or just leave it?
What is the concentric issue with the cam gear? Or is this on the JP sets?
For front cover gaskets, I currently have a single felpro metal gasket sitting on the shelf; some say run 2 paper gm's due to increased thickness. Others say it increases the likely hood of leaks (double gasketing) and to run a machined pump cover and single gasket...Whats your say?
What is the concentric issue with the cam gear? Or is this on the JP sets?
For front cover gaskets, I currently have a single felpro metal gasket sitting on the shelf; some say run 2 paper gm's due to increased thickness. Others say it increases the likely hood of leaks (double gasketing) and to run a machined pump cover and single gasket...Whats your say?
i deburr all edges including all the teeth on the cam/crank sprockets, its even more necessary since they changed to what i believe is live tooling on the cnc lathe, there is tons of metal deformation at the edges.
the inside shoulder on the cam snout is always undercut from all the cams ive seen so there's no fillet to need a chambfer to clear.
on the old sets ive doone the burrs were on the outside of the teeth, the newer sets have the annular grooves machined after and all the burrs are in the roller area's....enough that unless tou file em away there is no way you can install the set as the chain rides higher in the teeth preventing you from getting the crank and cam sprocket centerlines far enough apart to actually slip onto the nose of the cam.
i havent checked these two but on ajl227's setup, his cam gear was within .0025 tir using a 1/4inch gauge pin, the worst one i ever measured was a JP dbl at almost 5 thou tir
technicly you can run just 1 gm cover gasket with a properly machined dbl roller set that installs onto the crank all the way, with an unmachined cover.
again ajl227's motor had one steel/silicone felpro against the block and one gm in front of it, fully tightened and with the crank pry's forward with the chain the closest pin was .038 away from a stock unground cover
in my eye's its better to spend the $ on the machined cover, machining the chainset to fit properly.
we coulda been fine with just the GM gasket since the felpro only adds ~.010-.012 to the total stack height, i play it safe and use it anyways, esp as the molded in ridges should help stabilize the paper gasket. i still use permatex super 300/aviaton sealer on em anyways
persistent enough to know he's serious about making sure his shit goes together correctly
just another fucktard mod'n turdyatehundreds
turtlemans junk is almost together then i get to pickup hk's motor.
wanna do yours alongside his?
he's going with a stocker on his but its no problem measuring yours and sending it for machining. you have to help me get the block out from under the shelves though
i gotta get the main cap puller out for al soon anyways as he now has everything from the billet flexplate to the sfi od dampner to assemble and dropoff and get his shit balanced.
wanna do yours alongside his?
he's going with a stocker on his but its no problem measuring yours and sending it for machining. you have to help me get the block out from under the shelves though
i gotta get the main cap puller out for al soon anyways as he now has everything from the billet flexplate to the sfi od dampner to assemble and dropoff and get his shit balanced.
persistent enough to know he's serious about making sure his shit goes together correctly
just another fucktard mod'n turdyatehundreds
Well played. The guy who's planning to put a stout 1.9 rocker setup w/o:fyws
n a junk m90 3800. Just need time and resources (thanks for the info James) to put it together. Hopefully getting around to it this coming year, but who knows my parts have been collecting dust for over a year now.
Just updating this. Went and machined the crank gear and meausure the difference between the cam/crank gears. It came to be 0.0215'' I need to take off the back o the cam gear. Thanks James for info!!! Will probably get some pics up
later.
For the crank seal in the timing cover; I have a new felpro sitting here, my friend said to use National Brand, or do people just leave the old seal in the cover and reuse it?
later.
For the crank seal in the timing cover; I have a new felpro sitting here, my friend said to use National Brand, or do people just leave the old seal in the cover and reuse it?
i reuse em, if its a 98 or older it has the old type rubber seals...ill replace those but if its the brownish or the newest SII brown inner and black outter i leave en and clean thoroughly, make sure you clean the oilpump/seal drain hole, youll see it go from the bottom of the cover the the pocket behind the seal and in front of the pump
the only time ive seen the front seals leak is usually finding that passage plugged which lets the pump "leakage" to build up pressure and escape past the seal/through the keyway and under the crank bolt head
the only time ive seen the front seals leak is usually finding that passage plugged which lets the pump "leakage" to build up pressure and escape past the seal/through the keyway and under the crank bolt head
Went to my go to man having the crank gear machined.
After taking the chamfer past the keyway, like U.S. stock gear, not Aussies 3800 junk. I mocked it up on the engine.
I realized there isn't a great way to hold the cam gear still, so I wrapped the chain around the cam gear and pinned it between the two gears.
Tightened both bolts to 50lbs and measured the gear misalignment.
The block to crank gear face measures .880", the cam gear measures .900" and .903" prying on it. So I have .003" endplay on my stock cam. Taking .0015" as the average for endplay I added it to the shortest distance, thus giving a measure of .9015". Getting them to align I ended up taking .0215" off the back of the cam gear.
Mocked it up again, twas spot on!! The Aussie junk got owned.
Human oil was involved:chug: end of story/
After taking the chamfer past the keyway, like U.S. stock gear, not Aussies 3800 junk. I mocked it up on the engine.
I realized there isn't a great way to hold the cam gear still, so I wrapped the chain around the cam gear and pinned it between the two gears.
Tightened both bolts to 50lbs and measured the gear misalignment.
The block to crank gear face measures .880", the cam gear measures .900" and .903" prying on it. So I have .003" endplay on my stock cam. Taking .0015" as the average for endplay I added it to the shortest distance, thus giving a measure of .9015". Getting them to align I ended up taking .0215" off the back of the cam gear.
Mocked it up again, twas spot on!! The Aussie junk got owned.
Human oil was involved:chug: end of story/
.
A bonneville forum moderator came over today, with plans for a build. He's running the
s1x with newer style rollmaster. Did the gears and came out to be .030.
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