Rusted lines

Lord Tin Foilhat

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alright so this weekend im going to tackle the bonneville and get the trans cooler line replaced and replace the rusted part of the brake line. my questions are these:

is there anything special to replacing the front lower trans cooler line other then take it off and put a new one in?

when im repairing a brake line, am i able to just cut it, put the new piece in and use rubber hose/clamps to secure that section? or do i have to replace the whole line? ive never replaced a brake line other then at the caliper so im not sure.

anything else i should look for?

thanks
 

Dasfinc

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Sep 28, 2007
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alright so this weekend im going to tackle the bonneville and get the trans cooler line replaced and replace the rusted part of the brake line. my questions are these:

is there anything special to replacing the front lower trans cooler line other then take it off and put a new one in?

when im repairing a brake line, am i able to just cut it, put the new piece in and use rubber hose/clamps to secure that section? or do i have to replace the whole line? ive never replaced a brake line other then at the caliper so im not sure.

anything else i should look for?

thanks

Trans coolers are nothing special, those lines are not under serious pressure.

BRAKE LINES are under tremendous pressure, you should never just use rubber hose and clamps.

You can cut the rusted portion out, install compression fittings on either side, flare the existing lines, and then you can bend your own new line and install it. I've done this a few times (Still makes me a little nervous, but I haven't had any of my repairs fail yet... which is always a good sign).

I have all the tools to do this if you want to borrow them except for the line flare tool (Rental tool at autozone). If you come out to borrow what I have, we can go to autozone and get the rental tool and I can show you how it works before sending you on your way. (I'd offer to help, but I'm out of time to do much of anything except tackle my own projects unless I'm getting paid)

Universal replacement lines and fittings can be had cheaply at autozone, I replaced a 3 foot section under a Lumina last month, and it cost like $12 in actual hard parts.
 

Lord Tin Foilhat

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Trans coolers are nothing special, those lines are not under serious pressure.

BRAKE LINES are under tremendous pressure, you should never just use rubber hose and clamps.

You can cut the rusted portion out, install compression fittings on either side, flare the existing lines, and then you can bend your own new line and install it. I've done this a few times (Still makes me a little nervous, but I haven't had any of my repairs fail yet... which is always a good sign).

I have all the tools to do this if you want to borrow them except for the line flare tool (Rental tool at autozone). If you come out to borrow what I have, we can go to autozone and get the rental tool and I can show you how it works before sending you on your way. (I'd offer to help, but I'm out of time to do much of anything except tackle my own projects unless I'm getting paid)

Universal replacement lines and fittings can be had cheaply at autozone, I replaced a 3 foot section under a Lumina last month, and it cost like $12 in actual hard parts.

ah didnt even think about compression fittings. thats a much better idea cause i knew they were under pressure but wasnt sure if rubber would hold it. i have no problem buying some new tools since im sure ill use them in the future. ill let you know if i need anything, any chance you can pm me a list of what i would be needing tool wise?
 

hellraiser319

Hellraising since 1986
May 17, 2010
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West Bend, WI
Transmission line, you can do rubber, but I would advise against it, unless in a pinch and plan on replacing right away, or used with barbed fittings. Power steering will blow it off barbed or not. Compression fitting would work, or if you feel like it, flare it.

Brake lines on the other hand, those I'd highly recommend double flaring. Compression fittings, at least in the plumbing world, only recommended for low pressure stuff typically what you'd find in, say, a house, a couple hundred psi at best. You are begging 2 pieces of metal, semi-friction fitted together (technically) to hold under say 1200 psi of pressure. To me, terrifying. Some places will immediately fail inspection if they see it. Flaring gets a lot more bite on the line, less of a chance for it to pop or leak if you do it right. Much more reliable. You have I <that much grab as opposed to . <that much grab on the tube.
 

Dasfinc

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Sep 28, 2007
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I'll just post here instead of PM'ing you.

You will need a set of Line wrenches (like $5.99 at rock auto for a full set)

A brake line bending tool (was $9.99 at autozone IIRC)

A brake line cutting tool (Looks like a tiny PVC cutting tool, a pair of rollers on one side, and a cutting wheel on the other, was like $3.99 or so)

A brake line flare kit ($19.99 to rent at Autozone)

PB blaster obviously, and maybe some bungies to hold things in place while you measure. You may want a small tape measure too to see how long a line you need before you go shopping.
 

Lord Tin Foilhat

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I'll just post here instead of PM'ing you.

You will need a set of Line wrenches (like $5.99 at rock auto for a full set)

A brake line bending tool (was $9.99 at autozone IIRC)

A brake line cutting tool (Looks like a tiny PVC cutting tool, a pair of rollers on one side, and a cutting wheel on the other, was like $3.99 or so)

A brake line flare kit ($19.99 to rent at Autozone)

PB blaster obviously, and maybe some bungies to hold things in place while you measure. You may want a small tape measure too to see how long a line you need before you go shopping.

great thanks man. looks like ill only need line wrenches, a bender, and a flare kit
 
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