3800 Lower thermostats
- Thread starter mybluegtp
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My car with the 180* thermo and lowered fan turn on point (180*) runs at about ~180* with the A/C off, no matter the temp outside, as long as I'm not beating on it (which I dont do in extreme heat anyways) but with the A/C on, the car runs typically 10-20* hotter.. MAYBE a tiny bit more, no matter the outside temp (85* or 100*). Does that sound right?
Alfredo, how hot does your car get? or do you just shut it down before it actually maxes out the gauge?
Alfredo, how hot does your car get? or do you just shut it down before it actually maxes out the gauge?
I'm always driving normal when i have the ac on. I do have a DHP V1.5 and when i run the ac it goes from between 160&180 to 210 then i freak and turn the ac off. And this is even on a 80* weather. Do you think if i install caspers fan switch will it help cool more the engine? If so who can install one for me?
The fans turn on automatically when you turn the AC on. Even in 80* weather and stop and go traffic I was seeing 210* temps with my 180 tstat and DHP. I flipped out the first summer it happened but it seems to be normal. I havent overheated from it yet.
Your fine. Now drive your ass up here so I can serve it to you in SF.
Your fine. Now drive your ass up here so I can serve it to you in SF.
Fredo I run a 180 stat.
When the AC is on the car normally jumps up about 30-40 degrees hotter. WHen idling in traffic.
When I am cruising and the radiator has ample air moving across it, it stays at about 195-210.
SO it is normal for the collant temps to rise.
With the 160, the thermostat seems to remain open the entire time. Thus not allowing the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to cool. SO basically you are circulating warm coolant thruout the engine. And not getting any effects of the coolant so eventually your car will overheat.
Switch back to the 195 during summer especially if you are going to be using the AC alot. That way the coolant will stay in the radiator longer and allow the air and fans to cool off the coolant better thus improving the cooling effeciancy of your system.
Also you can run 80/20 mix of water/dex and add some water wetter. Helps alot!
Water has a higher ability to remove heat than dex does.
Only freak out when the RED TEMP LIGHT turns on!!
When the AC is on the car normally jumps up about 30-40 degrees hotter. WHen idling in traffic.
When I am cruising and the radiator has ample air moving across it, it stays at about 195-210.
SO it is normal for the collant temps to rise.
With the 160, the thermostat seems to remain open the entire time. Thus not allowing the coolant to stay in the radiator long enough to cool. SO basically you are circulating warm coolant thruout the engine. And not getting any effects of the coolant so eventually your car will overheat.
Switch back to the 195 during summer especially if you are going to be using the AC alot. That way the coolant will stay in the radiator longer and allow the air and fans to cool off the coolant better thus improving the cooling effeciancy of your system.
Also you can run 80/20 mix of water/dex and add some water wetter. Helps alot!
Water has a higher ability to remove heat than dex does.
Only freak out when the RED TEMP LIGHT turns on!!
i run a drilled 160 in the summer
i honestly dont get it why everyone freaks out and says it will hurt your car. with the a/c on (and on recirculate) rodding around town, on the highway, or idling, the car doesnt get over 185*...but with the a/c on normal, not recirc. it runs around 210 or so when im on the highway.
i switch to a 180 in the winter with no problems
i honestly dont get it why everyone freaks out and says it will hurt your car. with the a/c on (and on recirculate) rodding around town, on the highway, or idling, the car doesnt get over 185*...but with the a/c on normal, not recirc. it runs around 210 or so when im on the highway.
i switch to a 180 in the winter with no problems
I dont know if I can agree with this considering water will boil at 210* depending on the barometric preasure of course. Will coolant even boil? I have a feeling this is why my car is running abnormaly hot. I've been adding distilled water rather than a mixture every time I refill if need be
go back to your chemistry and physics class :lolsign: .
in a closed system such as ours the key to the higher boling point in water is PRESSURE! Higher pressure will increase the boling point of water by about 45 degrees at @15 psi of pressure.
The only reason ppl use coolant is so that water does not freeze in the winter time.
100% water has double the ability to transfer heat out of a system than a 50/50 solution of water/glycol.
ALso by adding some redline water wetter your system will imporve effeciency even more. This is done water wetter ability
of improviing surface tension (by redusing water vapor bubles) of the water on the system thus allowing more contact area for the water to absorb heat from the system.
water wetter is ment to work with its self and water only. the amazing temp drops advertised work with no coolant in the system. it would be expensive to set it up that way. and i know of 2 cars that did that and didnt notice much of a dif at all. no where near the 30*drop that it claims. maybe 5-10 and i thik weather had a huge factor in thatOriginally posted by alexgtp+Aug 1 2006, 04:52 PM-->
go back to your chemistry and physics class :lolsign: .
in a closed system such as ours the key to the higher boling point in water is PRESSURE! Higher pressure will increase the boling point of water by about 45 degrees at @15 psi of pressure.
The only reason ppl use coolant is so that water does not freeze in the winter time.
100% water has double the ability to transfer heat out of a system than a 50/50 solution of water/glycol.
ALso by adding some redline water wetter your system will imporve effeciency even more. This is done water wetter ability
of improviing surface tension (by redusing water vapor bubles) of the water on the system thus allowing more contact area for the water to absorb heat from the system.
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and i added a bottle to my car and next flush i had lots for clay shit clumping out. dont know if it had anything to do with it but i dont think that stuff likes a heavy coolant mix, like dexacool and reg coolant does when they mix.....tho im it might of been an existing problem
Fredo,
I ran a 160* in mine with the fan kit and stock pcm. I only drove the car in the summers and with the fans on and the 160*, never saw temps above 173*. With the fans on high speed and the 160*, the AC was ICE cold! Almost too cold! I never drove the car in the winters so I didn't care about heat (which is the downside of the lower t-stats). I ran this way for just about 5 years.
I ran a 160* in mine with the fan kit and stock pcm. I only drove the car in the summers and with the fans on and the 160*, never saw temps above 173*. With the fans on high speed and the 160*, the AC was ICE cold! Almost too cold! I never drove the car in the winters so I didn't care about heat (which is the downside of the lower t-stats). I ran this way for just about 5 years.
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