3800 what is the best intake for a turbokit on a gtp
- Thread starter Sinister Drag Designs
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The best would be a custom fabricated 'doghouse' style. The easiest though would be to cap off the M90, many people do this because it is the easiest and has shown no problems. The only problem with changing to L36 upper and lower intakes is that you have to either plug or weld the injector holes in the manifold.
There's really little benefit to porting/ polishing the throttle body on a turbo car as the air is pushing through the throttle body on the turbo application vs being pulled through on the supercharged application.
We'll have full aluminum intake manifolds designed to bolt up to the L67 up for sale soon.
We'll have full aluminum intake manifolds designed to bolt up to the L67 up for sale soon.
I
imported_Ron Vogel
Guest
The gain you would see from a nomally N/A intake would benefit you before the turbo spools. So it will give you more grunt off the line, but after the turbo spools it doesn't matter. Overall the car would be a tad more streetable with the L36 intake, but a properly set up turbo would optimize streetability anyway.
Honestly I think having the intercooler piping in both fenderwells is a good idea. Since the intercooler is a straight through cross flow why would you want to run an extra pipe backwards? Much easier to do it the other way as long as you have a custom intake manifold with the throttle body mounting on the passenger side.
Originally posted by sinr247@Feb 2 2006, 02:03 PM
i did it handcuffed to one ankle....pm me with any probs....and i only wrapped part of it off the car, the bottompart was maybe a little ghetto...did you like the gain it gave tho....
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haha, man, should have taken it off the car.... i rewrapped it, pulled some of it off... when i got it... it looked like a drunk ape did the iat wrap... its ok now tho... gain was nice, stays nice and cold.... a little colder than factory thrasher...
i would have a IAT sensor for ya, but when i was taking mine out.... the pliers didnt like me that day for some reason... and it cracked at both ends...
Dan
Using the L36 manifold setup gives you a little extra low end torque. My biggest problem with it was the plastic upper manifold. I cracked one of the bolt holes just tightening the thing down. I didnt even get near the torque requirements. Then you have to modify the rear vacuum port in order to not hit the fuel rail. The lower manifold injector ports can be tapped and plugged easily and they will seal fine. All in all it will cost you ~150-300 to swap over.
The much cheaper option is keeping the supercharger. It does give you a little less torque on the low end, but this can be advantageous. Less torque allows you to be able to stall higher during a power brake. This allows you to build boost while power braking and gets your right into the boost. Also, there are no major modifications needed to run the supercharger housing, like there is with the l36 lower. However, you should open up the lower manifold and gut the oulet of the supercharger for the best results. Cost is free if you just put on a block off plate that you order with a kit.
An upper intake manifold will cost you around ~200 if you order the material yourself and cut it yourself, and then have a shop weld it. THe advantage of this is that its less restrictive than a gutted M90 housing. However, you need to make sure you read a little about intake manifold design as the volume of the upper plenum is an important factor to performance.
And if you are bored:
http://www.gturbop.com/Naturally%20Aspirated%20GTP.htm
The much cheaper option is keeping the supercharger. It does give you a little less torque on the low end, but this can be advantageous. Less torque allows you to be able to stall higher during a power brake. This allows you to build boost while power braking and gets your right into the boost. Also, there are no major modifications needed to run the supercharger housing, like there is with the l36 lower. However, you should open up the lower manifold and gut the oulet of the supercharger for the best results. Cost is free if you just put on a block off plate that you order with a kit.
An upper intake manifold will cost you around ~200 if you order the material yourself and cut it yourself, and then have a shop weld it. THe advantage of this is that its less restrictive than a gutted M90 housing. However, you need to make sure you read a little about intake manifold design as the volume of the upper plenum is an important factor to performance.
And if you are bored:
http://www.gturbop.com/Naturally%20Aspirated%20GTP.htm
Yea, everyone was just figuring out how to swap them right after I was done with my L36 swap. I didnt feel like spending the extra money. You could only really get those manifolds brand new which is like $150, and then you need the cost of the adapter. Also I think it required some extra modifcation to fit well. I am pretty happy with my M90 setup. I have a custom upper manifold sitting in my garage waiting for me to have some time to finish it. Then I may test the differences between the two. Preferably before/after dyno. We'll see.
Mike
Mike
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