180 is fine but your heat just may not be as hot.
Fenderwell is fine although you run the risk of a lot of salt and water soak on the filter, but sometimes even a custom shield will do the trick. It has bad potential, but a lot of people run it and say they've never had problems.
Personally, I run some air ducting to my Thrasher that is installed in the compartment, which tends to help with splash guard and some drainage.
Your car is creaking from that last time I smoked ya in a race, man. It's still huffing.....
lol
Fenderwell is fine although you run the risk of a lot of salt and water soak on the filter, but sometimes even a custom shield will do the trick. It has bad potential, but a lot of people run it and say they've never had problems.
Personally, I run some air ducting to my Thrasher that is installed in the compartment, which tends to help with splash guard and some drainage.
Your car is creaking from that last time I smoked ya in a race, man. It's still huffing.....
lol
By the way, without knowing the context of the conversation I can only speculate as to what engine load may mean.
Most likely talking about your launch. Load is the amount of stress you place on an object, in this case, load might apply to power. Varying your RPMs might mean to experiment on the load at a launch for a better launch.
Again, I'm not privvy to the whole conversation but that's one possible context.
Most likely talking about your launch. Load is the amount of stress you place on an object, in this case, load might apply to power. Varying your RPMs might mean to experiment on the load at a launch for a better launch.
Again, I'm not privvy to the whole conversation but that's one possible context.
I
imported_Ron Vogel
Guest
Drilled t-stats aren't a good idea, especially in the winter. 180 is good, 160 isn't worth the time of day. Car won't stay that cold anyway unless it's winter and you're constantly moving. A cheap and easy way to seal the FWI...
I use a roofing product...Ice and water shield. It is a tar membraine, cut it to cover exposed areas in the wintertime, peel the backing off, heat it up w/propane torch and apply it to the inside of the fender. I will hold even over all the dirt and crap in there. it can be removed by simply pulling it out. I have a whole roll of the stuff if anyone needs some. It doesn't take that much of it to seal, and it will save you the expense of buying a whole roll from home depot for $35 bux.
I use a roofing product...Ice and water shield. It is a tar membraine, cut it to cover exposed areas in the wintertime, peel the backing off, heat it up w/propane torch and apply it to the inside of the fender. I will hold even over all the dirt and crap in there. it can be removed by simply pulling it out. I have a whole roll of the stuff if anyone needs some. It doesn't take that much of it to seal, and it will save you the expense of buying a whole roll from home depot for $35 bux.
I
imported_Ron Vogel
Guest
Sorry man, at the time I bought it, Menards didn't have it. There are two kinds of ice/water shield; the kind with the stone crap, and the smooth kind. Menard's only had the stoney kind, and the local roofing supply companies needed me to buy too big of a roll. I've used this stuff for 2 years now, insulated my door panels, trunk, and for FWI sheilding and still have a bunch left. BTW, it makes a nice sound deadner too!Originally posted by toastyj@Oct 6 2004, 04:09 PM
Will you people stop buying things from Home Depot and start buying things from Menards...
(I had to edit this post and add this:so that everyone knows that I meant that in the most jovial of fashions...)
That stuff weighs a ton, man!!
Its my understanding as well that a drilled Tstat is a myth, it sounds cooler than it is.... "drilled", you know like you did something to it. There is only so far you can go with engine cooling. Drilling a Tstat does nothing but makes constant flow for your coolant and really just drives the water pump more than it should without any honest gains in cooling performance.
I run a 180 and water wetter in mine, and without a calibrated gauge to be precise I can only say that my cooling mods have caused my cars operating temp to go down a whole "notch" on my gauge cluster.
If your that concerned about cooling, then you probably have a heating problem to begin with and start looking at heat extractors on the hood.... and take that fuzzy thing off the hood interior.... I hate that thing.....
lol
Its my understanding as well that a drilled Tstat is a myth, it sounds cooler than it is.... "drilled", you know like you did something to it. There is only so far you can go with engine cooling. Drilling a Tstat does nothing but makes constant flow for your coolant and really just drives the water pump more than it should without any honest gains in cooling performance.
I run a 180 and water wetter in mine, and without a calibrated gauge to be precise I can only say that my cooling mods have caused my cars operating temp to go down a whole "notch" on my gauge cluster.
If your that concerned about cooling, then you probably have a heating problem to begin with and start looking at heat extractors on the hood.... and take that fuzzy thing off the hood interior.... I hate that thing.....
lol
Thread Info
-
FCreated
-
10Replies
-
691Views
-
Participants list
