3800 IC Pump Config

rob

TCG Elite Member
Dec 28, 2008
1,237
0
I got my pump inside the Driver side fender well. There is a little area under the fender mout location. Sort of under the Air box mount area if you can picture it. Pull the PCM and box before you drill. Its a good spot. The pump fits perfect. Be aware, you will need 2 flowjet 90* pump fittings fot this location.

Lots of room in there Pull the wheel well plastic and take a look. Sorry I dont have a pic....If you interested in this location or want to see it PM me. It works out well. Im mounting my dual filter oil relocater in the same area on the other side. You can get some air in there for additonal cooling if you want.

5 lugs and 4 screws. Check it out.
 

VIN7

Member
Apr 22, 2008
49
0
I was looking at the driver's side area and that is where I'll try some mounting locations. Ok, this is how I have it laid out. Draw coolant from the bottom of the rad to the pump to the IC, then from the IC back to the top of the rad. I don't have a reservoir, is this necessary?

Thanks,
Mike
 

xttc2000

Addict
Dec 21, 2008
702
0
a lot of guys are pulling the bumper support when they put the kit together and putting the pump right there where that support used to be (the foam looking stuff)

otherwise you can put it where rob said, or on the passenger side next to the rad and in front of the wheel you can tie it up there pretty well.
 

rob

TCG Elite Member
Dec 28, 2008
1,237
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Originally posted by xttc2000@May 9 2004, 04:49 PM
a lot of guys are pulling the bumper support when they put the kit together and putting the pump right there where that support used to be (the foam looking stuff)

otherwise you can put it where rob said, or on the passenger side next to the rad and in front of the wheel you can tie it up there pretty well.
Tie it up a figure of speech? Dont you pump come with the rubber mounts and some 10/32's with lock nuts.

I like the idea of putting it where the bumper was though. Im shit canning mine aswell.

I also thought of the trunk because later when/if I go to a 2.6-2.4" Im running another exchanger (trans/oil cooler) in a cooler and filling it with regular or dry ice to drop them water temps at the track. Also, an electric fan on the exchanger may help some.....Just thought I'd pass it on..Its got to be worth 10-15*(the fan)Dont know what the make shift "Barbie pool" will cut.

LP is right you want to slow down the flow through the exchanger. The job of the core is to remove the heat from the air. The exchanger removes the heat from the water. The farther the temps are apart the more effective the heat removing process is.
 

rob

TCG Elite Member
Dec 28, 2008
1,237
0
Yes Alex, and the heated water to the exchanger to be cooled. Contrary to some beliefs and accusations on IC's.(no one in this club) Ive learnd from a neutral source that the mark of an efficient IC core is higher water temps not lower. This does not mean you want higher water temps! Simpley put if the water temps are lower the core isnt removing as much heat OR the heat exchanger/radiator is more efficient cooling the water better.

So break it all down to what LP said.....If you can slow down the flow through the exchanger you'll be cooling it down more. However, your not going to have temps lower than ambient unless you artificially do something. Fan on the exchanger should prove to do the trick well from an economical standpoint. Ive seen aftermarket ones at Peppy Boys. Look at the difference the fans make on an engine! "Barbie pools" Will really cool things down at the track or on the hot days.

If your still not happy, A larger exchanger will help aswell. How much weight do you actually think your going to add? 10-15# If you can run more timming you will make up for that!

AC was also mentioned, CO2.....So you new IC is tuneable. I guess thats what im trying to say.
 
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