3800 Installed new L32 heads

J.E.T.

TCG Elite Member
Nov 10, 2008
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Short summary: Car stopped running. Coolant in oil. Purchased L32 heads.

Well, I worked in my GP with whatever little time I had. I couple of hours here and there, a Saturday afternoon - and this weekend. I replaced my old heads with L32 heads. Too much work and I'd never want to do that again. That took all the modding out of me!

Anyway, it's all back together. I start it up - first click and she ran!

About 3 minutes later, a loud WHISTILING noise starts. WTH. I can't pinpoint it. It sounds like it's the front side near the valve cover. So it's 10:30PM, and I can't keep running the car and bother my neighbors. It's that freaken' loud!

Looking for suggestions on troubleshooting. Please HELP.

Thanks,
J.E.T.
 

J.E.T.

TCG Elite Member
Nov 10, 2008
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Did that.. still whistles. Engine idled different though . I'll take out the PCV and look at it. I replaced it about a month ago.

There was coolant in the EGR flex pipe from intake to EGR, but I cleaned that off. Then the pipe cracked - but I taped it as best as I could for now. The noise doesnt seem to be coming from there...

It is LOUD!! Scary loud.

J.E.T.
 

J.E.T.

TCG Elite Member
Nov 10, 2008
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A few things I did during reassembly:
- I plugged the 2 holes (with the yellow o-rings).
- I used the FelPro 9089PT on the front (left) heads as well. However, I installed it right side up - but backwards. Meaning the arrow is facing the wrong direction. It was either this way or flip the gasket over. Since the gasket had a different surface top/bottom, I didn't want to flip it. I noticed some of the coolant holes were not cut out perfect to match the block. This was the case with either backwards of flipped installation.
- My copper flex pipe from intake manifold to EGR is bend to hell on the intake opening. Meaning the pipe end is not circular anymore. And the other end almost broke off - so I taped it. The noise could resonate from that poor circular end - I suppose.
- Nearly EVERYTHING torqued to spec with a Sears electronic torque meter (cool toy!)

The noise goes away as I pull on the thottle cable. So it's only a tea kettle at low rpms.

Common guys - one last hurdle - please help. As much as I like my car, I'm exhausted working on her.

LP3000: Nay, the cool red block is not installed. :(

Thanks,
J.E.T.
 
I

imported_Ron Vogel

Guest
It's definately something to do with vaccum in the block or intake. It reached the point that it is finding a place to leak. When you pull the throttle, vaccum drops and so does the whistling. Look at the port from the SC to TB where the PCV vac line is. If it is blocked in any way this will happen.
 

rob

TCG Elite Member
Dec 28, 2008
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Whistling....? Be concerned with the water in the oil...and in the egr...? Plugs could be leaking in the manifold there but you need to find out why there is water in the oil!!!!! Pretty sure the arrow faces forward with the Fel pros....Could be why you have water in the oil.
 

J.E.T.

TCG Elite Member
Nov 10, 2008
1,319
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No water in the oil that I see. It's only been running about a total 10 min stationary.

The gasket fit fine :ph34r: . I looked hard at its orientation. It was the same whether the arrow faces front or back. I just made it so the top the the same as the other side because the sealing surface is different. I did email ZZP and asked why ony one gasket part number, and they said Felpro uses the same for left and right. I'm trying to be as confident about that install as much as possible! I wish someone here has used Felpro before.

Does the L32 heads fit? Ya, they fit... I think I might be the 3rd or 4th person to install it.

NO WATER IN THE OIL! Don't say $hit like that anymore ;) .

J.E.T.
 
I

imported_snoop

Guest
do you have head studs or just the normal head bolts. what did you torque either one to. the only time i have ever heard a whistle like you are describing is with the crank not breathing. once we pulled the oil cap off and put a breather on, it stopped. that is the only time i have heard that high pitch whistle and that is what we did to get rid of it. something is blocked in there or somewhere. maybe the o-rings for the PCV are blocking something. did you check the PCV valve. what does you oil look like? if it looks yellowish/greenish, you have coolant in the oil.
 

J.E.T.

TCG Elite Member
Nov 10, 2008
1,319
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I did change the springs. If the valves are not sitting right, it would run like crap, right?

I used standard head bolts. I torqued them properly and in order - then an additional 130deg. After that an additional 30deg more on bolts 1-4.

I checked the PCV valve - it was sticking. So I sprayed tb cleaner to free it up. It's only a month old. I recheck it again after another startup and it's not sticking anymore.

So far, oil looks very very clean. It's clear in color (on the dipstick) because its new Mobil1.

I think this is a BIG clue - which goes towards Ron's and everyones theory of PCV - vacuum related:
If I remove the PCV valve, it does NOT whistle. Of course, the engine also dies after 3 seconds.

maybe the o-rings for the PCV are blocking something
What o-rings??!!?? I take out the two 10mm screws, pop out the spring and the PCV valve is at the bottom. Where are the o-rings?

J.E.T.
 

J.E.T.

TCG Elite Member
Nov 10, 2008
1,319
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Do you have the o-ring on the bottom of the PCV valve? If not air will leak past it.
Hmmm... I've never noticed an o-ring at the bottom! I looked inside the hole and I didnt see one. It's not attached on the PCV valve itself either. And I replaced the PCV just now.

I would say lower intake vacuum leak. did you use rtv in the joint of the three gaskets?

Yes, I did put red rtv on the four corners. I thought I did a good job at it, but maybe not. I'll try and check the corners by covering them somehow.

UPDATE:
I took her for a careful spin tonight to clear out the pipes. It smoked for a few minutes, as I expected. After an easy cruise, the tailpipe stopped smoking. Then codes started to pop and LTFT and STFT were dead. LTFT stuck at 16.4 and STFT stuck at 0. Code P0134 - 02S no reading - or something. Seems that my 02 sensor didnt like taking a bath in coolant.

Overall, she runs well - except for the LOUD WHISTLE. Idles a little rough ever since the codes poped up. No misfires at speed. Slight misfires at idle (it did before ahnd) but the engine does not stall or stop.

Plan of attack is to replace the 02 sensor (front I think). Maybe my MAF is bad as well. And I'll be stopping by Ron Vogels tomorrow for some help with the whistle effect. I'll investigate this o-ring at the PCV - never seen that and I've replaced mine a few times.

Thanks all for the input. Please feel free to voice out anything that might help me.

J.E.T.
 
Hey dude I just put the LPIC on my car last week and when I got it all put back together it made a loud as hell whistle. If you had the hood up you couldnt hear yourself think. What had happened was my gasket between the intake and the IC got soaked with gas and made the gasket leak. I thought it was the vac T but we pulled the blower and I saw the soaked gasket. Hope this helps.

carl
 

rob

TCG Elite Member
Dec 28, 2008
1,237
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Originally posted by J.E.T.@Apr 18 2004, 11:11 PM
Short summary: Car stopped running. Coolant in oil. Purchased L32 heads.

Im just going on what you were saying......Hope everything is ok now...Is it?

Im not trying to be a smarty when I asked...

I was asking because I wasnt aware of putting L32's on..

Whats the gig...They flow better?
 
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