3800 need advice/opinions on cam install components

[jmdz06]

ok, so i've pretty much decided to go with the XP cam, so considering that, is this list of other stuff complete? I'd also like to replace any other components that may be due for failure due high-milage wheile i'm doing the swap. Basically, i want to do this RIGHT, not twice .

Comp Cams "OE R Series" Hydraulic Roller Lifters
Manley Severe Duty Generation II Stainless Steel Valves (INTENSE)
Stainless Valves (zzp)
X-P HOT CAM
L67 CAM Install Kit
Comp Cams Titanium Valve Spring Retainers
105/130 pound springs
INTENSE™ High-Performance Pushrods (lightweight)

I put the valves in there assuming that i've managed to fry a couple again and so that brings up another question: what's the REAL difference between the "cheap" valves from ZZP and the not-so-cheap ones from INTENSE? or am i just going to be better off replacing one or two that need it with oem?
Also, what's the best choice for springs 105 or 130#? if i've read correctly, the 105s should be adequate for my setup, but are there any performance/longevity gains by going with the 130s? Should i replace my timing chain or just figure that out when i actually get to it? And for the pushrods, do i actually need to replace these?
Am i missing anything? Oh, and i've only got about $800-$900 to burn for this swap, so if anything major is added to the list, something's got to go.

If it makes a difference, after these mods i do plan on getting an IC and i may wind up replacing the heads during the cam swap because i have a really bad feeling that i may have blown another one but we'll see about that.

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[BumpinGTP]

what's the REAL difference between the "cheap" valves from ZZP and the not-so-cheap ones from INTENSE?

i believe zzp only offers valve seals, not valves, so that would be your price difference

If it makes a difference, after these mods i do plan on getting an IC and i may wind up replacing the heads during the cam swap because i have a really bad feeling that i may have blown another one but we'll see about that.

blown another what? heads dont blow, and if you are thinking head gasket, you would definately know if that blew out.

 

[kazoo]

Don't forget to do the timing chain. You are there might as well get a new one. Plus it takes a couple of days to get it because its not a item that is stocked.

If you are thinking about running the 5 rib supercharger belt in the future than you can plan on having the crank pulley cut to except it at this time because you need to take it off to get to the cam.

ZZP does sell SI valves but not sure what the difference is between the SI valves and the Manley valves. People use stainless valves because they are better at handling heat and also I think carbon does not stick to them as easily. But I have also heard that if you run stainless you need to go with brass valve guides because stainless expands at a different rate than cast iron. But they also make stainless valves with chromed stems(I think) which you can use with cast iron. Just find out what you are getting.

I would not worry about going with titanium retainers unless you plan on running 8000 rpm or higher or want to spend the extra money.

For the spring rates I would follow what ever ZZP recomends for the amount of lift you are running. I am putting in 105's because my lift is only slightly above .500

Also if you are going to do the head thing get the MLS head gasket. It is expensive but I heard it is well worth it expecially if you are going to run alot of boost.

 

[rob]

The difference between the SI valves and the Manley is the stainless steel they are made of the SI's are manufactured in Tiawan...Ive seen no evidence to support claims that their SS manufacturing process is inferrior to ours..Im running them because I believe that at the very least they are one step beter that stock valves.
Yes they are chomemoly tipped and I havent heard of having to run bronze valve guides with these valves-I think it is a matter of preference...I hope it is because im running the stocker guides and im not that crazy about bronze guides...They have oil consumption issues.
You need to run the 130# springs with that X-P cam....For lifts over .520..Good choice on the cam. It is highly recomended that you change the chain...I thought it comes with the cam install kit...? Anyway, shop around. Ive seen a kit with a chain..If not PM me because I can get 30% off dealer prices if you have the kit W/O it.
As far as valve seals....Vitron..This brings me to my next point. Im assuming your removing the heads...If you are have your machinist mill down your valve guides .100 to avoid a collision between the rocker and valve seal....If your NOT removing the heads you con use a trick valve spring retainers at Thrashercharged.com. This is IMPORTANT and cannot be overlooked.
It may not be a bad idea to prefom a compression test to verify the integrity of the bottom end.....pending your mileage. No sense of building the top end only to have the bottom end fly apart..

 

[jmdz06]

blown another what? heads dont blow, and if you are thinking head gasket, you would definately know if that blew out.

sorry, not literally blown, just cracked.

i do plan on doing a compression test very soon because the last time my car was having issues similar to now, i had cyl 3 at about 50% compression and that was due to a cracked head...or so i was told.

Im assuming your removing the heads...If you are have your machinist mill down your valve guides .100 to avoid a collision between the rocker and valve seal....If your NOT removing the heads you con use a trick valve spring retainers at Thrashercharged.com. This is IMPORTANT and cannot be overlooked.

this is the first time i've seen mention of valve guides. could you explain a little more about them and the specific issue you're trying to avoid?

and thanks for the help!

 

[rob]

Its easyier too see it than explain it...However....Im speaking of the clearence between the valve retainer and the valveguide seal which is a portion of the heads that sticks up or the casting around the valve guide. The seal is pressed on the end of the casting....
When you increase your gross lift. Your valve open farther decreasing this clearence mentioned above....If you install the high lift cam without adressing this problem your rocker will smash the valve guide seal..
There a couple was to address this which I mentioned in the last post. If your taking the heads off just let your machine shop know what you are doing and bring your cam specs and the seals you are using....They will measure it up and grind down the guides to the proper clearence...I like Vitron valve guide seals(PRJPerformance.com) because of there low profile and cost...There low pofile construction is nice because you machinist will not have to take as much of the guide down compared to the stock seals.