Need trans linkage welded.
- Thread starter SuperDaveGSE
- Start date
Welding is the wrong answer. It will twist off again and leave you stranded somewhere.
What you really need to do is drill and tap the shaft in the same thread as the broke off stud. Then thread in a hardened screw of the same thread using loctite and run it in TIGHT.
Cut to length with a Dremel and cut-off wheel and you will have a repair that will last forever.
What you really need to do is drill and tap the shaft in the same thread as the broke off stud. Then thread in a hardened screw of the same thread using loctite and run it in TIGHT.
Cut to length with a Dremel and cut-off wheel and you will have a repair that will last forever.
son of a bitch...how do i always have to come to the rescue?
this folks is why you dont take things apart with a 10lb sledghammer
how the hell did you manage that one?
since you are not using the internal mode switch and are using the earlier external range switch you can pull the pan and swap the shift selector shaft from your old trans into the new one by just leaving the new trans IMS off (the shafts are identical, just a wee bit different but only cause the new one has a provision for the linkage to the IMS)
or you can weld it...but your out in the sticks somewhere iirc
this folks is why you dont take things apart with a 10lb sledghammer
how the hell did you manage that one?
since you are not using the internal mode switch and are using the earlier external range switch you can pull the pan and swap the shift selector shaft from your old trans into the new one by just leaving the new trans IMS off (the shafts are identical, just a wee bit different but only cause the new one has a provision for the linkage to the IMS)
or you can weld it...but your out in the sticks somewhere iirc
Yes, and that broke too.:rollpicard:. I was going to use the harness that came with the trans. But it was FUBARd so I had to reuse mine, when I was trying to get the bolt off I go maybe half a turn and it just SNAPPED! I've tried to get the shaft out, when that pin snapped off too. WTF! it was a bad day. I got the trans in and I can manually shift it into gear. I REALLY JUST WANT TO GET THE TAB WELDED ON AND BE DONE WITH IT.
wait so the shaft falls down? ou already tried to remove the shaft from the bottom?
if your willing to get a buddy in the drivers seat, manually shift it and drive that fucker out here i can weld it but for sure you gonna be disconnecting your pcm bat and ideally id be grounded directly to the manual shaft at the bottom.
if your willing to get a buddy in the drivers seat, manually shift it and drive that fucker out here i can weld it but for sure you gonna be disconnecting your pcm bat and ideally id be grounded directly to the manual shaft at the bottom.
That shaft is held in by a pin if you take the side pan off you'll see what I'm talking about. What I'm saying is, I already tried to get that pin out to change the shaft. But that pin broke too, this is why I can't change the shaft. What ever I have to do in order to get this damn thing back on the road again.the parentals don't exactly like it sitting in the driveway taking up space.
Cant "drop the pan" the shaft is behind the side pan. In order to get to it, I'd have to take the trans out again. I cannot put the car in the garage again, I'll never hear the end of it. Plus I cannot have the car down any longer, I need to figure out something that does not include dropping the trans out again.
idunnomrroboto.... the arm is key'd to the shaft, the weld is to hold it on... all rotational Tq load is still transfered through the key'd part its just welded onto the shaft, it would be an ok repair however there would be a risk of damaging the trans range switch but wrapping it with a wet rag while welding and a slow trickle of water after welding should keep the heat from transfering into the plastic switch arm inside the housing.
the problem is the best current path to weld it would be grounded directly through the shaft from the bottom, so that would mean your happy ass would have to drop the pan here. on the plus side after a drive from up there in the sticks it wouldnt be a bad time to change out the fluid and filter (get a good wix or transtar filter, none of those chink filters)
i could probably drill n tap the shaft for an M8 bolt but that would be a possibility but we may have to yank out the brake booster and swiing the master cylinder outta the way
btw all them a's i edited out were cause my microsoft keyboard died
the problem is the best current path to weld it would be grounded directly through the shaft from the bottom, so that would mean your happy ass would have to drop the pan here. on the plus side after a drive from up there in the sticks it wouldnt be a bad time to change out the fluid and filter (get a good wix or transtar filter, none of those chink filters)
i could probably drill n tap the shaft for an M8 bolt but that would be a possibility but we may have to yank out the brake booster and swiing the master cylinder outta the way
btw all them a's i edited out were cause my microsoft keyboard died
I'm sorry. I'm a Mechanical Engineer. It will work temporarily. It won't work for long. I'd hate to see you stranded in nowhere'sville and at least not give you a heads up.
Do what you got to, but be warned.
Drill it, tap it, put in a new bolt and cut it. It will live forever.
he kinda has a point, the amperage id put through it to get good penetration would put in enough heat to make it very hard to protect the switch from melting beyond saving at which point your truly fucked...
what sucks about drilling and tapping it is while i have a 90* drill adaptor you still have to pull the booster if your gonna do it in car. id be able to clear with a small pilot drill but the larger dia to tap for a 5/16ths or 8mm thread is long enough the booster has to come out. good news is the master just swings aside.
ddr must approve of me working on your junk otherwise one of em will get mad that their car got bumped down the list, send payments to theJesusATddr.com
i have a pretty large job on the semi but when can you bring it?
what sucks about drilling and tapping it is while i have a 90* drill adaptor you still have to pull the booster if your gonna do it in car. id be able to clear with a small pilot drill but the larger dia to tap for a 5/16ths or 8mm thread is long enough the booster has to come out. good news is the master just swings aside.
ddr must approve of me working on your junk otherwise one of em will get mad that their car got bumped down the list, send payments to theJesusATddr.com
i have a pretty large job on the semi but when can you bring it?
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