Strut Tower Rot - Is it saveable?

[GTwolf]

Slow chevy's thread got me thinking about weather my car was getting bad, I'd never checked it before. Pulled back the trunk mats and it's definitely rusting, but the strut hasn't bent it's way through yet. Is it saveable if I do something about it now? What can I do to stiffen it up and stop it from rusting further?

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[slowchevy]

Looks as bad or worse than mine. How about pics from outside looking up inside?

 

[GTwolf]

Looks as bad or worse than mine. How about pics from outside looking up inside?

Yeah it looks pretty bad, it wasn't poking through and bent yet like yours but it's definitely as rusty. I'll run outside and grab some pics looking up.

 

[GTwolf]

Underside pics (doesn't look too bad):

 

[EmersonHart13]

POR15

 

[GTwolf]

POR15

Which one should I use? The chassis coat?
CHASSIS COAT BLACK-POR-15 Inc.

 

[GTwolf]

Or should I use the rubberized undercoating?
RUBBERIZED UNDER COATING-POR-15 Inc.

 

[slowchevy]

Would think the rubberized stuff would be better than just paint, has a thicker barrier between it and the elements. I don't know why GM designed these this way. Never seen a first gen wbody do this.

 

[GTwolf]

This is a nasty flaw on their part. Do I just clean the area real well and spray the coating as is or do I need to do some sanding first? Trying to do everything I can to prevent this from getting worse. Anyone have any more suggestions for getting rid of what's there or preventing more? That por15 looks like a pretty good option.

 

[EmersonHart13]

Follow their exact directions. You are not supposed to over clean if I recall correctly.

 

[slowchevy]

Id use their marine clean followed by welding the area to improve strength, hit it with their metal ready and por15 the shit out of it.

 

[01abboud]

Holy crap these threads are making me love my Georgia car more and more. Yikes. Kinda makes me want to find a way to put a coating on there before it starts rusting!

 

[slowchevy]

I would..

 

[GTwolf]

Follow their exact directions. You are not supposed to over clean if I recall correctly.

Ok will do, should I use the rubberized then? Or should I use the chassis one then put a coat of rubberized over it?

 

[1quick]

if your going to keep the car i would use a rollock disk or wire wheel and take it down to bare metal and have some one weld some thin plate under there to add strength then coat it, if your not going to keep it wire brush it and under coat it and dump the car

 

[EmersonHart13]

Follow the directions unless you are adding metal. I do not think 2 coats pf por15 helps as it needs to touch rust to do anything (react and convert) so I would say the rubberized..?

 

[GTwolf]

if your going to keep the car i would use a rollock disk or wire wheel and take it down to bare metal and have some one weld some thin plate under there to add strength then coat it, if your not going to keep it wire brush it and under coat it and dump the car

Paging the body guys on here for a rough estimate on what the metal plate idea would cost?

 

[EmersonHart13]

I believe smug said in the other thread it would be a PITA. Perhaps hinting at not worth it..?

 

[smug]

The only way I can think of making the project easier, safe and reliable is to cut out the bad metal but leave in that heavy gauge plate and then just make a new patch panel to fill in the hole. No matter what welding and grinding up there is going to suck giant asshole.

 

[bdyman]

or how about just replacing the inner and outer wheel house its allot more work allot of work but the rot is gone for good, and it will cost allot of money

or how about this...............remove the suspension, cut out the affected rot, using the old as a template i would use 16 or 18 gauge metal using the template to shape and drill the holes needed in the new metal

weld it in place it sounds easy but its not huge pain in the taint i wouldnt want to do it lol

 

[GTwolf]

Haha yeah, anything that involves major cutting and welding would probably cost more than the car is worth at this point.

 

[Aircal]

What if you treat it. Then have a larger plate made. Drill the same holes and use longer bolts to tighten everything up? No need to weld as the new plate would act like the mounting bracket.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

i know i write wayyy to many essays but what ya'll dont even read what i post anymore?

after several days of dry weather (make sure any moisture is long evaporated) spray it all down with oil, the oil will keep oxygen from getting to the steel which means it will halt the corrosion....plus it will actually seep/absorb into the rust/crevices where coatings will not. if you wish to, after coating and letting it soak in for a week or so you can clean off the surface in the wheelwell with brake cleaner/solvent and coat it to keep tire spray outta there

btw first gen W's had transverse leaf springs...the strut buckets are only used for the shocks, they do not support the weight of the vehicle....so the buckets are thinner and one piece....e.g. there's no sandwiched layers of steel for saltwater to to accumulate and start corroding.

every year before winter, coat the chassis with oil in a spray bottle then park it in front of a neighbors house or over cardboard....keep it away from rubber bushings everywhere you can...

this works best on a clean car but it will delay the inevitable

 

[GTwolf]

Thanks! I'll try that this week! How long does it need to dry for? Like if it's going to rain that night do I need to park it in the garage? And I'm assuming the heavier weight the oil the better? I'm thinking I'll do the oil, let that dry, than put the rubber coating on it.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

no its fine if it rains...just dont DRIVE it in the rain/wet where the tire can splash/sling water up there.

on a bad one like yours i would go from above with a light/thin oil like airtool or 3in1 oil (a 3in1 oil can is damn near the perfect size/applicator for this) to let it easily get to the middle of the rust bubbles. id prob remove anything that can be removed with your fingers (loose scale/seperated paint) before this.
after a couple aplications of light oil id lay on a heavier oil (not gear oil unless you like the smell)

if all you do is apply to the top (helps you keep oil away from the rubber mount of the strut if you are carefull) after the first day or so you will prob see the oil "wetting" the rust in the wheel well which means its soaked throough at lest the loosest parts of rust, i only suggest waiting longer with the thinner oil so it has time to creep into the "fresh" rust zones near the steel itself.

once its through, wipe down the wheel well area with brake cleaner to get rid of the oil that will keep shit from sticking and id use rtv to seal the rusty seams...then coat with rubberized undercoating to seal any small area's you may have missed with the rtv....remember the oil will attack the rubber and turn it into tar