I told [MENTION=5]Mook[/MENTION] I would write a few write ups for the #BRAAAP section so this is my first one.
Today I am going to show you how to winterize a pwc/waverunner with my 2007 Yamaha VX110 Deluxe 4-stroke. This procedure is similar for other personal watercraft. (both 2-stroke and 4-stroke) I am not a mechanic or a marine technician and I take no responsibility for any damage to watercraft due to improper winterization. This procedure has worked for me in the past with no issues. I am going to explain my three major steps. (Cleaning, oil change, winterization)
My VX110 fresh out of Lake Michigan after sitting in water for 5+ months. Bottom covered in algae and scum. Immediately after I pulled it out of the water I scrubbed the hull with a fine scrub brush right at the launch ramp when it was still wet. Its important you get it clean ASAP, as the longer it sits and dries the harder this stuff is to get off.
I brought it home and immediately started cleaning. First I washed it with my gas pressure washer. I feel this step is most important as the better job you do with the pressure washer the less work you need to-do later and you can use less abrasive chemicals. Use a pressure washer if at all possible.
The pressure washer got most the algae and scum off but you will also need something more abrasive. Usually muriatic acid is used for cleaning like this but I wanted to try something a bit more "safe". I saw a product at West Marine called On-Off Hull and Bottom Cleaner.
Brush on, wash off. I did a few applications, and the product worked well. At $19.99 it was alot more money vs straight acid but was much more enjoyable to use. I recommend you still wear eye and hand protection when applying the product.
Next step is stabilize the fuel. I like to top off the tank and add the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer. Starbright is my choice product.
Hook up a fresh water hose adapter and turn on the water. Start the waverunner and let it run for 15 minutes. This flushes the lake water out of the system, circulates the fuel stabilizer in the fuel system, and gets the oil warm in preparation for the oil change. Make sure water is coming out of the bottom of the waverunner, that means its going through the system.
I use a manual pump oil extractor from West Marine. On watercraft accessing a oil drain plug is nearly impossible, and very messy. Pumping out oil is the only way. If you use a electronic oil extractor you do not need to warm up the waverunner. At least with the manual pump style extractors the warmer the oil the easier it is to pump out. Stick the straw in the oil fill and give it about 25 pumps. You will see the oil flowing out of the motor into the cylinder. In this particular waverunner You will be able to extract about 2.5 quarts.
For my waverunner and snowmobiles I buy Yamaha OEM oil change kits. They come with a filter, oil, and anything else necessary for the oil change. I also buy absorbent sheets to put in the bilge under the oil filter so when I remove it I don't make a mess.
Some people prefer
Reach down under the motor and remove the oil filter. A oil filter wrench is a lifesaver. (At least for me) Install the new oil filter after you lube the seal on it.
Pour two quarts of oil into the motor, hook up the hose and start it up. Let it run a few minutes to make sure oil circulates through the dry sump system and motor. Check the oil level and refill as needed. This waverunner takes 2.5 quarts so I had to add a little more. Make sure the trailer is level when you check the oil level. I put a level on the engine block and adjust the trailer tongue jack as needed.
Remove the water hookup and start the motor again. You will need to run it and let the water exit the system. Give it a few revs #BRAAAP. I like to also tilt up the trailer and let the water flow back and out. Just do not run it very long as the motor is not being cooled. You can do this a few times, just let the machine cool a bit in between. Some feel adding coolant is necessary, check with your manufacture.
Next step is to fog the motor. This makes sure shit doesn't lock up with moisture over the winter.
Remove the intake going into the throttle body. Start the wave runner and spray some fogging oil into the throttle body. The waverunner should die out. (If not shut it off after you spray)
Remove the plugs and give it a quick spray down the plug holes with the fogging oil. Reinstall the plugs. Quickly blip the starting button (but do not let it start) to distribute the fogging oil.
Remove the battery. Charge it. Put it inside your house. Or leave it on a trickle charger. Grease any fittings in the engine bay. Then spray down the engine bay with WD-40 or some other silicone water resistant spray.
Do a complete wash on the waverunner and trailer. I usually wait for spring to completely "detail" it with a buff/wax.
This is a good time to check the tire pressure on your trailer, and grease any bearings/cranks. I store my waverunner inside so I only cover it but some people might want to shrink wrap.
Next season all you are going to need to-do is reinstall the battery and fire it up. I also change plugs after I run it a bit. Fogging oil can foul them.
Today I am going to show you how to winterize a pwc/waverunner with my 2007 Yamaha VX110 Deluxe 4-stroke. This procedure is similar for other personal watercraft. (both 2-stroke and 4-stroke) I am not a mechanic or a marine technician and I take no responsibility for any damage to watercraft due to improper winterization. This procedure has worked for me in the past with no issues. I am going to explain my three major steps. (Cleaning, oil change, winterization)
My VX110 fresh out of Lake Michigan after sitting in water for 5+ months. Bottom covered in algae and scum. Immediately after I pulled it out of the water I scrubbed the hull with a fine scrub brush right at the launch ramp when it was still wet. Its important you get it clean ASAP, as the longer it sits and dries the harder this stuff is to get off.
I brought it home and immediately started cleaning. First I washed it with my gas pressure washer. I feel this step is most important as the better job you do with the pressure washer the less work you need to-do later and you can use less abrasive chemicals. Use a pressure washer if at all possible.
The pressure washer got most the algae and scum off but you will also need something more abrasive. Usually muriatic acid is used for cleaning like this but I wanted to try something a bit more "safe". I saw a product at West Marine called On-Off Hull and Bottom Cleaner.
Brush on, wash off. I did a few applications, and the product worked well. At $19.99 it was alot more money vs straight acid but was much more enjoyable to use. I recommend you still wear eye and hand protection when applying the product.
Next step is stabilize the fuel. I like to top off the tank and add the appropriate amount of fuel stabilizer. Starbright is my choice product.
Hook up a fresh water hose adapter and turn on the water. Start the waverunner and let it run for 15 minutes. This flushes the lake water out of the system, circulates the fuel stabilizer in the fuel system, and gets the oil warm in preparation for the oil change. Make sure water is coming out of the bottom of the waverunner, that means its going through the system.
I use a manual pump oil extractor from West Marine. On watercraft accessing a oil drain plug is nearly impossible, and very messy. Pumping out oil is the only way. If you use a electronic oil extractor you do not need to warm up the waverunner. At least with the manual pump style extractors the warmer the oil the easier it is to pump out. Stick the straw in the oil fill and give it about 25 pumps. You will see the oil flowing out of the motor into the cylinder. In this particular waverunner You will be able to extract about 2.5 quarts.
For my waverunner and snowmobiles I buy Yamaha OEM oil change kits. They come with a filter, oil, and anything else necessary for the oil change. I also buy absorbent sheets to put in the bilge under the oil filter so when I remove it I don't make a mess.
Some people prefer
Reach down under the motor and remove the oil filter. A oil filter wrench is a lifesaver. (At least for me) Install the new oil filter after you lube the seal on it.
Pour two quarts of oil into the motor, hook up the hose and start it up. Let it run a few minutes to make sure oil circulates through the dry sump system and motor. Check the oil level and refill as needed. This waverunner takes 2.5 quarts so I had to add a little more. Make sure the trailer is level when you check the oil level. I put a level on the engine block and adjust the trailer tongue jack as needed.
Remove the water hookup and start the motor again. You will need to run it and let the water exit the system. Give it a few revs #BRAAAP. I like to also tilt up the trailer and let the water flow back and out. Just do not run it very long as the motor is not being cooled. You can do this a few times, just let the machine cool a bit in between. Some feel adding coolant is necessary, check with your manufacture.
Next step is to fog the motor. This makes sure shit doesn't lock up with moisture over the winter.
Remove the intake going into the throttle body. Start the wave runner and spray some fogging oil into the throttle body. The waverunner should die out. (If not shut it off after you spray)
Remove the plugs and give it a quick spray down the plug holes with the fogging oil. Reinstall the plugs. Quickly blip the starting button (but do not let it start) to distribute the fogging oil.
Remove the battery. Charge it. Put it inside your house. Or leave it on a trickle charger. Grease any fittings in the engine bay. Then spray down the engine bay with WD-40 or some other silicone water resistant spray.
Do a complete wash on the waverunner and trailer. I usually wait for spring to completely "detail" it with a buff/wax.
This is a good time to check the tire pressure on your trailer, and grease any bearings/cranks. I store my waverunner inside so I only cover it but some people might want to shrink wrap.
Next season all you are going to need to-do is reinstall the battery and fire it up. I also change plugs after I run it a bit. Fogging oil can foul them.
