🔧 BUILD ZXMustang's 2022 Mustang GT

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Yea it’s true. I ended up going 10.40 on the final setup of the ZL1 and was quite pissed. I was looking at another $15k in cam and fuel mods to keep going and I have just plainly lost interest. It’s infuriating with how much I spent on that car to go low 10s when coyotes are doing 9s for a lot less. And a few weeks ago I had a buddy get one and it was tuned. His was waaaaaay different than the stock one I drove before.

On top of that the ZL1 with the Maggie was quite valuable as well. So I was able to minimize loses on it and absolutely steal a 22. It was used. 1500 miles. I paid cash for it. Not going to finance in this market.

Already have it on full E tune with my vengeance tuner. JLT coming and the DRs are already on, on a new set of f14s. My opinion. Still stands about QC. It’s not great. I’ll be taking it in for some fit and finish issues but all in all for what I paid and what it will cost to run circles around the ZL1, it’s still a steal. Flame me all you want, I have the cash and the want to play and I’m going to. And if tomorrow I buy a plaid or a fucking dump truck, that’s my business.

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ZXMustang

Suh dude
Feb 19, 2019
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The recipe for going fast in these cars is tried and true especially when you got people like Drew on here that has tuned so many of them, driving to the track and cracking off a 9 then driving home was much more difficult before the coyote cars.

I’d focus on getting that converter asap then boost.
So Ive never had an aftermarket converter installed on a car. What does that do to the driving manners and how does it help at the track? How do you use it? or how do you launch an auto with a converter? Im green to auto drag racing other than foot brake it up to almost push through the brakes.

Here's a log of my last fastest run if anyone wants to see it. Car worked well and had no issues.
 

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BOTTLEFED

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The recipe for going fast in these cars is tried and true especially when you got people like Drew on here that has tuned so many of them, driving to the track and cracking off a 9 then driving home was much more difficult before the coyote cars.

I’d focus on getting that converter asap then boost.
converter isn't even needed with the twin setup.
 

1quick

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So Ive never had an aftermarket converter installed on a car. What does that do to the driving manners and how does it help at the track? How do you use it? or how do you launch an auto with a converter? Im green to auto drag racing other than foot brake it up to almost push through the brakes.

Here's a log of my last fastest run if anyone wants to see it. Car worked well and had no issues.
Converter lets it free rev higher, so instead of foot breaking to 2000rpm you can foot break to 4500
 
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01bluesnake

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Im basically looking to run bottom 10s maybe even 9s eventually but for far better cost than what it was going to take for the ZL1. Im already WAY ahead right now because of how much cheaper the car was. And to get a blower kit, I should be easily beating my 10.40@132 my ZL1 ran before I sold it.

So I keep teetering between the sick whipple kit but $10k or the ESS kit for like $5500. The ESS kit is going to MPH like a monster, but the car is still going to dog off the line. The Whipple is going to make it feel like the hellcat/ZL1 but the cost is really pushing me back. I have the means to go either way, but I just want to make the dollars really count this time.

But the goal is to beat the ZL1 at the end of the day. And maybe my buddy with his hellcat charger that runs 9.90 with his work boots in the trunk and two baby seats in the back...

The Whipple kit i had is gone now, i actually gotta update the thread. Had a local guy grab it about a week ago. Any power adder is gonna get you down the track, but a Whipple or my TT kit just does it without a convertor very easily, where the centri really needs one to run fast. You gotta factor that in, what your saving with the ESS, its gonna cost you more in the end to run it so really not a saving anymore. The Circle D's are over $2000, plus install, and fluid, it adds up quick, easy $3k just to make a centri work right. My TT kit and Whipple kit both come in very fast, without convertors. My turbo's come in boost just under 3000rpm, my A10 customer foot braked the car to a 1.3x '60 just for reference, same as when he had the Whipple.
 

ZXMustang

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Feb 19, 2019
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The Whipple kit i had is gone now, i actually gotta update the thread. Had a local guy grab it about a week ago. Any power adder is gonna get you down the track, but a Whipple or my TT kit just does it without a convertor very easily, where the centri really needs one to run fast. You gotta factor that in, what your saving with the ESS, its gonna cost you more in the end to run it so really not a saving anymore. The Circle D's are over $2000, plus install, and fluid, it adds up quick, easy $3k just to make a centri work right. My TT kit and Whipple kit both come in very fast, without convertors. My turbo's come in boost just under 3000rpm, my A10 customer foot braked the car to a 1.3x '60 just for reference, same as when he had the Whipple.
And whats the cost of your TT kit?
 

1quick

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The Whipple kit i had is gone now, i actually gotta update the thread. Had a local guy grab it about a week ago. Any power adder is gonna get you down the track, but a Whipple or my TT kit just does it without a convertor very easily, where the centri really needs one to run fast. You gotta factor that in, what your saving with the ESS, its gonna cost you more in the end to run it so really not a saving anymore. The Circle D's are over $2000, plus install, and fluid, it adds up quick, easy $3k just to make a centri work right. My TT kit and Whipple kit both come in very fast, without convertors. My turbo's come in boost just under 3000rpm, my A10 customer foot braked the car to a 1.3x '60 just for reference, same as when he had the Whipple.
Have you done an f150?
 

01bluesnake

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And whats the cost of your TT kit?
I have it set up as an installed price at 11.5, but if i had to guess, your gonna be 10.5ish, and i'll throw in shipping. I will have to do an instruction sheet for it, since i always do the install, and don't have one built at the moment. Its literally all bolt on though, even uses stock bumper support, but tubular offers better intercooler flow. Only cutting you'll have to do is the upper radiator supports to bring the radiator closer towards the front of the car. its same thing all the blower kits do as well to give more room. For the trans lines, i just cut them on the driver side, and will include hose and clamps, gives the needed room for the turbo to clear Other then that, all hotside is ceramic coated, includes new oem gaskets, hardware, and heat material for the trans lines and O2 sensors. I'm a big fan of cutting down heat to anything i can. I can set the connect pipes up for OE connect, but strongly recommend doing a 3" connect and good free flowing 3" catback for best spool/gains. IF you don't do the turbo kit, i strongly recommend just grabbing a stage 2 Whipple kit. Centri's aren't bad on these cars, but when you add in cost of a converter, it puts it in the same cost range. Just gotta pick what power adder would work for you. The most adjustable is the turbo setup via a boost controller, it will also make the most power pound for pound because you are not loosing power by spinning a blower. There's really no power adder that doesn't work on these cars, its just the setup that goes around them to make them work.
 

ZXMustang

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Feb 19, 2019
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I have it set up as an installed price at 11.5, but if i had to guess, your gonna be 10.5ish, and i'll throw in shipping. I will have to do an instruction sheet for it, since i always do the install, and don't have one built at the moment. Its literally all bolt on though, even uses stock bumper support, but tubular offers better intercooler flow. Only cutting you'll have to do is the upper radiator supports to bring the radiator closer towards the front of the car. its same thing all the blower kits do as well to give more room. For the trans lines, i just cut them on the driver side, and will include hose and clamps, gives the needed room for the turbo to clear Other then that, all hotside is ceramic coated, includes new oem gaskets, hardware, and heat material for the trans lines and O2 sensors. I'm a big fan of cutting down heat to anything i can. I can set the connect pipes up for OE connect, but strongly recommend doing a 3" connect and good free flowing 3" catback for best spool/gains. IF you don't do the turbo kit, i strongly recommend just grabbing a stage 2 Whipple kit. Centri's aren't bad on these cars, but when you add in cost of a converter, it puts it in the same cost range. Just gotta pick what power adder would work for you. The most adjustable is the turbo setup via a boost controller, it will also make the most power pound for pound because you are not loosing power by spinning a blower. There's really no power adder that doesn't work on these cars, its just the setup that goes around them to make them work.
So for your cost installed and I know your attention to detail, I'd do this in a heartbeat if I were local. But shipping it down here and having a trusted shop do it is going to add another $3k to the price. Plus oil pump gear which adds like $1200 installed. So I'd be like $15k in with more tuning. At that point I can get a whipple for about $9k and its $2k to install here at my local shop that only does coyotes. But man if I were still in IL, I'd do it.

Just do yourself a favor and move down here...lol Honestly quality coyote shops are hard to find here. LT shops are on every corner.
 

01bluesnake

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So for your cost installed and I know your attention to detail, I'd do this in a heartbeat if I were local. But shipping it down here and having a trusted shop do it is going to add another $3k to the price. Plus oil pump gear which adds like $1200 installed. So I'd be like $15k in with more tuning. At that point I can get a whipple for about $9k and its $2k to install here at my local shop that only does coyotes. But man if I were still in IL, I'd do it.

Just do yourself a favor and move down here...lol Honestly quality coyote shops are hard to find here. LT shops are on every corner.

What are the shops charging down there per hour??? This kit is about a 10hour install, and most of the time is installing the exhaust manifolds which for me is around 1.5-2 hours per side, working at a slow pace. These are air cooled turbos, so no oil or coolant lines to run. Once the shorty headers are on, this kit should not take more then 4-5 hours, its not that complex or difficult like some other turbo kits. Also, oil pump gears and tuning is gonna be needed for any power adder.
 

Jeffs FRC

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Aren’t the 2022+ Coyotes belt driven oil pump?

Just want to input a little as well on Drew’s turbo kit. I’ve seen it in person and it is super clean and very simplistic. I’ve installed a Whipple, and I would bet it is going to take longer to install than Drew’s turbo kit. I absolutely love the Whipple kit and how the power comes on, but if I had a blank canvas, I’d be doing Drew’s kit in a heartbeat!
 
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01bluesnake

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Aren’t the 2022+ Coyotes belt driven oil pump?

Just want to input a little as well on Drew’s turbo kit. I’ve seen it in person and it is super clean and very simplistic. I’ve installed a Whipple, and I would bet it is going to take longer to install than Drew’s turbo kit. I absolutely love the Whipple kit and how the power comes on, but if I had a blank canvas, I’d be doing Drew’s kit in a heartbeat!

F150's i believe, but i haven't opened one of those to that fuckery yet lol. The Whipple does take longer, i charge 15 hour for Whipple kits, million damn parts bags and pieces.
 

Blood on Blood

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Im basically looking to run bottom 10s maybe even 9s eventually but for far better cost than what it was going to take for the ZL1. Im already WAY ahead right now because of how much cheaper the car was. And to get a blower kit, I should be easily beating my 10.40@132 my ZL1 ran before I sold it.

So I keep teetering between the sick whipple kit but $10k or the ESS kit for like $5500. The ESS kit is going to MPH like a monster, but the car is still going to dog off the line. The Whipple is going to make it feel like the hellcat/ZL1 but the cost is really pushing me back. I have the means to go either way, but I just want to make the dollars really count this time.

But the goal is to beat the ZL1 at the end of the day. And maybe my buddy with his hellcat charger that runs 9.90 with his work boots in the trunk and two baby seats in the back...

Spray the car, hit your deserved number, then pull the bottle and trade in b for something else, maybe a Tesla…. Go tear up the streets and raise Hell
 

ZXMustang

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Feb 19, 2019
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What are the shops charging down there per hour??? This kit is about a 10hour install, and most of the time is installing the exhaust manifolds which for me is around 1.5-2 hours per side, working at a slow pace. These are air cooled turbos, so no oil or coolant lines to run. Once the shorty headers are on, this kit should not take more then 4-5 hours, its not that complex or difficult like some other turbo kits. Also, oil pump gears and tuning is gonna be needed for any power adder.
bout $200 per hour and I just had the headers installed. I'd hate to pull those and lose my ass on them after only a few weeks.
 
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01bluesnake

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bout $200 per hour and I just had the headers installed. I'd hate to pull those and lose my ass on them after only a few weeks.

Wild, that is dealer range for labor rates. Yeah i get it, that is normally why i try and get people from the start to figure out a game plan or end goal per say to avoid wasting money. My recommendation, throw a Whipple on it. Can easily get into the 10's, or 9's if you want to stretch it some more with a fuel system and other supporting mods. Dont push the trans too hard, too long above 800whp, or plan for a rebuild on the 10R
 

Rent Free

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From where you are now.

Converter.
Intake manifold.

Personally Im willing to bet the CJV2 has the dual round inlet so the dual TBs off a S650 can be used with the split airboxes.

Itll be interesting to see people put a CJV2 on an S650. Therefor its only a matter of time before a dual TB split airbox setup makes its way to an S550.

I also think the CJV2 with twin TBs will be fucking baller for the twin turbo guys.

If it were my car Id do bolt ons into the 10s using parts you dont need to ditch if you decide to add boost thats why I said centri previously also.

Building blocks. Dont instantly open the wallet and throw 8 to 10k at it.

Id also like to see what the aftermarket does for S650 support.
 

ZXMustang

Suh dude
Feb 19, 2019
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From where you are now.

Converter.
Intake manifold.

Personally Im willing to bet the CJV2 has the dual round inlet so the dual TBs off a S650 can be used with the split airboxes.

Itll be interesting to see people put a CJV2 on an S650. Therefor its only a matter of time before a dual TB split airbox setup makes its way to an S550.

I also think the CJV2 with twin TBs will be fucking baller for the twin turbo guys.

If it were my car Id do bolt ons into the 10s using parts you dont need to ditch if you decide to add boost thats why I said centri previously also.

Building blocks. Dont instantly open the wallet and throw 8 to 10k at it.

Id also like to see what the aftermarket does for S650 support.

Yeah Im trying to not buy and sell or buy and rebuy parts this time around. The converter is starting to look like a next mod. At some point I'll have to finally nut up and get some skinnies up front. Maybe pull the front passenger and rear seat out. Im sure with those things and the converter, it should do much better.
 

Blood on Blood

rumble baby rumble
Apr 6, 2005
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Yeah Im trying to not buy and sell or buy and rebuy parts this time around. The converter is starting to look like a next mod. At some point I'll have to finally nut up and get some skinnies up front. Maybe pull the front passenger and rear seat out. Im sure with those things and the converter, it should do much better.

Or simply buy the ESS kit and be done
 

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