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BUILD Z mfn swift


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RdRnnR

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Didn't mess with dhp did it thru hp and paid the price cuz I was iffy about it to begin with. Made sure to write entire but it went smoothly. Get those Knock sensors back in line unless you got a good ear man one thing goes wrong and u got a chunk out of a piston.

Well thats relieving and depressing at the same time on the post o2 I was hopin it was just an open circuit so it wouldn't follow thru. Guess I can hope I track it down to one side but if I'm gonna be back there anyway it is what it is. Made sure to uncheck and set all unused pids to no error reported I screw up last night and tried settin it to one bank without doin it and if I didn't have them cleared and when I'd pull one or the other it'd go rich as hell even if I kept it commanded cl. Still clear on 2% throttle that pic kinda shows you they oscillate and act as if I'm just stomping the gas. Maybe I can try and put a long ass delay in pe from 35 and under and see if thatll help but when pedal is commanded at 50 idk if that's gonna be it. Gonna try a throttle position and iac relearn too wim wondering if that's not a bit of what's goin on down low. Cats ass purrs at 775 idle. One step under and I start progressively seeing the sporadic misfires again and if I command higher it doesn't take much at all to kick the o2s back out. Afr rocks between 14.6 and 14.8 most of the time in cl but I had my guage in afr and it was reading it as lambda cuz I do dumb stuff sometimes lol. Not a misfire in site after going thru the fueling changes of warmup. That right banks closer to the cylinder than the left and the left has an extension on it so I'm hoping that's the 4% differential but I've still got issues here somewhere. Is there a possibility of the sensors just sucking ass? I used the good Bosch sensors unless they suck, I'm not a fan of the ntks.

Off topic Tim mentioned somethin bout using an lt1 maf on this rather than an afc or lq4 maf where I maxed at 35 lbs. My own digging and newfound thought processes thanks to all this finds the stock sensors are actually good to 15 mhz? And scaling the table would mean moving cells down a ways but leaving room for decel drop, figuring a projected number up top, interpolating and then a flash or two to bring it back in? Looks like that lt1 maf can be had cheap and its bigger so less delta right? Just needs good placement and tuning. I guess I'd kinda like to experiment with this sensor first if there's that much more in it tho. I'm probably gettin too comfortable clicking around os's these days and stumbled upon all the files and channels the tuning school keeps in their download box to play with so now im probably dangerous if I wasn't scared to mess with stuff I don't have a handle on yet. I might say hell with it and make it think it's a turbo regal gs by the time I'm done with it, or I might window the block. Never know with my luck lol
 
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I just unplugged my post cat O2 and ziptied the connector to a random hole on the T5. As for the KR stuff, Brian turned those suckers off. I'm glad to hear you had luck with figuring out the 7440 with DHP. I'm more inclined to do that now. My kit even came with a bench tune harness.
If you don't want that bench tune harness send it over lol. Ill go raid the pick and pull for a pile of boxes and flash em to ship out on ebay all day and say screw that workin stuff
 
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I'm gonna have to get down on the ecoboost and Ford mod motors pretty quick too. Tune a few trucks out and the next thing you know you got em lining up telling em to wait til it's a lil warmer out. I don't feel as if I'm doing bad at this point and makin sure everything's as safe as I can with 0 knock out the door. There's a market here. Doesnt seem like anyone's a big fan of the guy an hour away as I've already worked over some questionable things and he's over a grand so they drive two hours the other way and pay that guy double. Its nuts cuz to me it feels like playin video games babysteppin to that high score without blowin shit up lol. Really tho it's kind of a curse cuz I can't even talk to my friends even the mechanics about cars anymore cuz I snap right to the in depth version of whatever and it's always "idk anything about that shit" or "screw that it's too complicated but is it really? Or can people just not process running two or three streams of data against each other to find and buff out an error or get out a calculator hell we've all got one right in our hand all the time anyway. Sorry rant over gets boring when no one speaks your language anymore
 
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Holllddd uppp. I might try changing these sensors out it just dawned on me I coulda cooked em by adding cp25 to keep the knock down. Kinda think it'd take more than a couple tanks with a gallon mixed in but maybe it'll happen that fast?
 

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I saw your video on Facebook and noticed that kinked coupler right in front of the MAF. You should fix that. I know the screen should help straighten the air out, but that kink could still be causing more than just a restriction.
 
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It's actually a weird bend coupler but it is kinked a lil bit. Even hittin maf weird I wouldn't think that'd cause this. One of my o2s was a lil loose idk how so now its a lil lean but problems still there.

Has to be wiring only o2 that should be alive is bank 1 but yet still when I unplug bank 2 it goes rich even with all the pids and boxes unchecked. Really wondering bout that post cat and might wire it back in just to see. Otherwise I'll do some diggin when I go after the valve covers.
 
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So, this is pretty much how tonight went. Swapped sensors and clicked boxes and tried every different thing I could possibly imagine and this thing just straight up refuses to stay in loop. You guys were right post cat didn't matter even tho I wasted the time to find what wires were what lol

I found an interesting thing in single bank mode tho. No matter what boxes I cleared out an no errored when I'd unhook one sensor or the other it'd kick out although it'd let me command closed even tho it went real rich with either sensor unhooked. Somethin in this circuit has to be jacked.

But. In open loop or when I'm in single bank mode my misfires are totally gone and I can drop idle clear down to like 550 without it startin to act up. Running driver o2 is just a lil rich about a 14.2 and if I swap the wires it goes lean pretty quick so the leak on the passenger side must be worse than I think. That or when its trying to control the wrong side pullin it backwards or some other weird thing. Also passenger o2 looked like it'd been runnin pretty rich and driver side I'm pretty sure I could've wiped it off and it'd have looked brand new. I wonder if I should get another set of em but I'm pretty sure the misfires are due to imbalance in fuel ratio from the right side thinking its lean and throwing fuel. But shouldnt I be able to just shut that sensor off? I've been thru all the wiring besides what's back behind there and doesn't seem like anything wrong. Swapped maf, swapped tps and adjusted throttle blade to 2% and reset tps and iac to try and help and it starts and idles a bit smoother now(yes it still swings from .4ish to 100) This whole damn issue is in these o2s. And I'm fine with straightening out my leak. I just feel like I should be able to run in single sensor mode and the other not fight it but I could be wrong.

Gotta get some actual work done today before I mess with it again but it's back together and I'm gonna try and make a lil run to town with it but I also can't get my glowshift to pick up in scanner. I've got an offset worksheet for it I just haven't really messed with it yet...unless I dropped the ball on wiring my serial in which could be a thing (2 and 5/ green and red seemed to pin out backwards on the multimeter)

But hey I finally got my catch can put on I guess, even if I had to use some flexzilla I had layin around that probably isn't gonna like oil very well for now. View attachment 81661View attachment 81660View attachment 81662
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Turbocharged400sbc

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double check you pcm logged voltage and what your actually getting with a meter, both at the battery and backpinning the pcm pins.

i found the o2 malfunction while running was due to pcm shutdown of non essential systems because of voltage sensing. it would shutoff heaters and sub 450mv which really fucks with you till your backprobing with a 4 channel DSO and when the pcm shuts off the heater while your registering 11.9v droputs and 1ms intermittents down to 10.9

at the least shove a few t pins into the pcm power pin backsides and hotwire 12v battery to em and retest, be carefull when backprobing that you stay alongside the barrel connector and you dont go through the center of the female terminal and end up spreading the female leading to future ittermittents.

along with this i would suggest tearing out an unused pin from a pcm and finger every hole with it to check that all your terminals are snug and not a hotdog down a hallway type experience

they are 1mm pins iirc .040 mig wire should be a bit snugger than the metric size, maybe cheapo sewing needles might be made from metric 1mm wire, id prefer you break out an unused pin
 
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May just just solder a lead to a piece of welding wire I like that idea. Also just startin it up cold this morning and I thought I've heard it before but there's a vacuum leak loud enough you can hear it that goes away after 4 or 5 seconds. I spose that's causing issues too. At any rate she's way better than what she was and at least idles and holds close to what its supposed to now. Open loop is no issue on idle and really I could probably rape the pe table for the rest. I mean Jon's cars fine without o2s and so are half the trucks around here...but I wanna make this fast. And I know in my gut.whatever this issue is is probably gonna screw me if I don't take care of it first.

Gonna take a rip to town in her to get a red bull before slappin some tires on. Hopefully what I have done is at least noticeable. Wish me luck.
 
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heres a couple logs while im actually bein productive, she probably had a couple close calls with death. not sure if its from maxxin the maf, still have stock pump which should pry run out right about there, or if its this ghost. sealin her up definitely has her wantin to move out tho
 

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heres a couple logs while im actually bein productive, she probably had a couple close calls with death. not sure if its from maxxin the maf, still have stock pump which should pry run out right about there, or if its this ghost. sealin her up definitely has her wantin to move out tho
also note. gates still sticky and consistently hittin 15.7 should be opening at 8.
 
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So, I really thought I was runnin out of fuel pump about there. Until I went over scans and found one pull up to 38 lbs/min with 0 and I mean no kr in sight. The difference after looking at the rest? She commanded herself back to stoich up top for no reason. I picked up an ls1 maf and a couple new o2s just to be damn sure one of those isn't causing the issue and the maf, because well, I wanna make more than it is and if it's maxin there whats the point in the rest of this. So that caps gotta be gone anyway.

What I need to do is get a multimeter and my haynes book out and start ohming out the o2 wires I guess. Those pins in the ecm seem pretty likely at this point but you'd think all the pullin on those I've done gettin the box in and out would've done somethin different there.

Vac leak on startup I think is the wastegate and clearly it's junk where its sticking. Only a matter of time before it really decides to hang and really cause an issue I'm guessin. Idk why she keeps tryin to kill herself but it'd be great if she'd knock it off lol

v6buicks v6buicks if I don't get this sorted out I'm gonna be lookin at your tune to see how Brian has it setup without the o2s
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Ok so, I know there's alot of different plugs and stuff but three sets that were wrong and different brands to boot?...I also feel like maybe I'm not such an idiot. Or maybe I am but Wtf...
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Turbocharged400sbc

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Are you talking about the ignition cables? I switch the polarity on the coils regularly on mine to even out the spark plug wear/erosion, since I use used copper plugs in my daily driver from the race cars

Polarity on the secondary side only matters if one of the three coils is wired backwards on the set. at high RPM the current flow through the block changes directions on the one miss polaritied coil and can f*** with things id think.
 
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No the o2 sensors. The wires are backwards... but when you hook em up right they way they should be in the book they don't read at all. I got pissy with it and tryin to get my wideband thru serial but that isn't goin well either
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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The heater wires won't matter but the signal and Signal return wires will.

Purple and tan with the white Tracer is the downstream stuff solid purple and tan are the bank 1 sensor 1 sensor for the W bodiez
 
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The heater wires won't matter but the signal and Signal return wires will.

Purple and tan with the white Tracer is the downstream stuff solid purple and tan are the bank 1 sensor 1 sensor for the W bodiez
Purple high and tan low 5v signal right? The other two just 12 + and - is the only way I can turn the light off or not get a maf code as well since it's tied into same power and anytime I try and go closed it swings dead rich. I started messin with it last night and tried every combination under the sun probed every wire on it countless times checked and unchecked every box didn't fall asleep til I went in and sat down on the couch with the kids I was after this thing so hard and couple hours later I'm finally answering my phone. I can't even fail the o2s and run the wideband thru the ac signal or it fucks with the throttle and won't let it idle....

I'm about to let the turbo dreams go on this one guys. Shes haunted.
 
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Alright so im not that pissy I guess. Probably just more worn out from bein up all night breathing rich fuel and not accomplishing anything and I apologize for my bad attitude over this. I think it's time to start isolating circuits and maybe runnin some feed lines to sensors to see if they'll act right that way and see if I can single out the problem. Pretty sure any time I've ever bought a manual for a car it was for the schematics anyway. I may give it a minute before I come back to it or start messin with somethin else in the meantime. Maybe start tearin some more stuff off the other one so I quit lookin at it and gettin stupid ideas. I'm already damn near there and I've busted my ass to try and build a nice car. Not to mention I can't just give up and walk away. Sometimes I gotta remind myself I got a couple minions hangin around watchin and the last thing I need to do is set that example for em. I'll get to that other pile of rust someday it ain't like it's goin anywhere.

Ive just got way too much of me in this one at this point to walk away and I haven't thrown a single wrench yet so it can't really be all that bad
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Can you not just change the tune to stay in open loop only? I don't run an o2 on my car because I keep it in open loop all the time.
 
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Can you not just change the tune to stay in open loop only? I don't run an o2 on my car because I keep it in open loop all the time.
Nope tried that and was gonna run just off the wideband and still screws with it thru egr or ac reference. I'm pry gonna get pro features to get around that but it's still signaling a problem. Jamie thinks it's in the grounds so im gonna check those hard too
 
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Were you using the wideband to simulate a narrowband signal?
No but I thought about using that side of it. I did idle with ve and was going to use wideband and maf on the top end
 
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Well guys I've come to a decision here. While I don't think I'm gonna get rid of this car I can't shake myself from steering towards the firebird. I know there's rust but if I can't handle it I've got friends with a body shop two doors down, white and black are more my thing, a bird fits my business better and I'm opening some big doors with what this cars taught me.

I'd essentially be gutting both cars for the t tops when the tranny and rear end I want already in the bird as well. I already have an unlocked stock file that will bolt right into it and I've gotta tear the headers off the red one anyway. I may as well move my seats and door panels back over and start building and I can actually have what I want before April instead of tryin to gas myself out in the shop and my little boy goes nuts when he hears firebird.

I can do things right where I did wrong before and it's not so much giving up on this one as it is building something better. Like maybe keeping ac and not taking a sawzall to everything.
 

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At this point you almost might as well just pull out the harness and PCM and toss it in the other car for test purposes.

I've honestly gotten really good at just building stand-alone essentially 3800 PCM and harnesses so you might want to just go to a junkyard grab the harness out of a w body and make a stand alone harness PCM for Diagnostics.

You will have plenty of wire once you unwrap it to be able to use the W body harness with your engine.

S*** wait it is the turbo car that is drive by cable correct?

Sort of matters for year of w body PCM and harness
 

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I've seen a few people do projects this way. They do all the sloppy work and prove the concept on one car. Then they tear it all apart and swap it over to anther one while fixing their mistakes in the process. Sometimes it works out and sometimes it turns out to be a bigger mess than they had before. I was wanting to do a body swap for a while, but I realized how much work I already had into my Camaro for this particular swap and decided against it. Now I'm eternally stuck with putting band-aids on the shell so that it doesn't return to the earth. Good luck. I hope your new car doesn't have nearly as much rust as mine did.
 

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