Who works on home AC?

OffshoreDrilling

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Yea, it's not always helpful :rofl: but we have Jared on TCG. He's the first person I would have asked, I would have skipped Google in this instance.

People are generally terrible at describing all the symptoms of their problem as well, and get answers that reflect that.

its like going on WebMD to figure out a diagnosis for what you're currently ailing from, vs seeing a physician.
 

OffshoreDrilling

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Good for copeland scroll that i sont even know model # of? Lol

Thanks dude! I owe you a beer
a contactor is not a model specific part. Its just a switch that closes the line voltage to the compressor, activated by the 24v coming through your thermostat. You can look up the model number of the unit and probably find an OEM part if you want, at 5x the cost as well.

Glad i could be useful!
 

EmersonHart13

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a contactor is not a model specific part. Its just a switch that closes the line voltage to the compressor, activated by the 24v coming through your thermostat. You can look up the model number of the unit and probably find an OEM part if you want, at 5x the cost as well.

Glad i could be useful!


Nice, i like 30 dollar fixes. I'll go out after work and see if I can find the bad one in the unit.
 

OffshoreDrilling

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if the compressor starts/runs,its not the contactor or compressor prob.

most likely an A-coil leak tech cant find.
quote was HIGH im sure...some stop leak & recharge might work.

Compressor runs non stop unless the breaker is thrown for the condensing unit. Thermostat has no effect on cycling of condensing unit. Indoor blower cycles with thermostat. House is cooling and reaching set point.

Not sure where you're coming up with a leak as a diagnosis
 

EmersonHart13

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OffshoreDrilling

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CONT1P025024V

the "1P" designates single pole, "250" is 25.0A rating, "24V" is the coil voltage which is 24v

I can 100% tell you by looking at it, that its a single pole contactor. It has a single contact that closes to complete the circuit to the compressor when energized. The other leg of the 220 needs to be hot at all times to power the crank case heater in the compressor. It keeps it warm and prevents liquid refrigerant from migrating into the crank case and oil. It will condense in the coolest part of the system when off. Scroll compressors are very sensitive to oil, if it gets washed down too much with refrigerant, say bye bye compressor. Reciprocating compressors handle the liquid a bit better. You'll end up putting a hole through a piston though with enough liquid refrigerant slugging though.
 
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