Wheel Studs---HELP

390HP-MD

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I just purchased these: http://steeda.com/products/racing_wheel_studs.php

I just ordered them for the rear. The guy from Steeda said I would have to enlarge the openings slightly with a 39/64" drill bit. Sounds easy enough... BUT, nobody has even heard of this size!!! Home Depot, Menards, ACE... tried them all... no luck. Has anyone installed these before? Ihave my car on stands!

Give me a call if you have an answer in the next couple of minutes... I'll be in the garage! 312-217-4932

Thanks!
Manny
 

rdsnake

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Yeah, I installed APR 3 inchers awhile back, Went thur 15 studs, 20 lug nuts and a crap load of washers...Next time i'm pulling the hub off and having them pressed in like I should have :rolleyes:

Good Speed...

Kevin
 

Mr. Unknown

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RD SNAKE said:
They I installed APR 3 inchers awhile back, Went thur 15 studs, 20 lug nuts and a crap load of washers...Next time i'm pulling the hub off and having them pressed in like I should have :rolleyes:

Good Speed...

Kevin


:dunno:
 

Mystic Terminator

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Using the ARP you don't need to drill out the rear. But you have to drill out the front hubs.
 

Shane97Cobra

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Mystic Terminator said:
Using the ARP you don't need to drill out the rear. But you have to drill out the front hubs.
Baer used to carry a long stud for the front hub. They were $75 for 10 though. :eek:


390HP-MD said:
I just purchased these: http://steeda.com/products/racing_wheel_studs.php

I just ordered them for the rear. The guy from Steeda said I would have to enlarge the openings slightly with a 39/64" drill bit. Sounds easy enough... BUT, nobody has even heard of this size!!! Home Depot, Menards, ACE... tried them all... no luck. Has anyone installed these before? Ihave my car on stands!

Give me a call if you have an answer in the next couple of minutes... I'll be in the garage! 312-217-4932

Thanks!
Manny
The size does exsit but it is rare and expensive. You will have to call Snapon or another high end tool company to find it.
 

Mystic Terminator

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Baer used to carry a long stud for the front hub. They were $75 for 10 though. :eek:




The size does exsit but it is rare and expensive. You will have to call Snapon or another high end tool company to find it.
Go to MSC and get 39/64" reamer. Don't use a drill bit.

http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT?PMAKA=02310399

Then get the ARP studs for $12.95/5 ARP-100-7703

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ARP-100-7703&N=700+0&autoview=sku

You can use the same studs for front and rear. Only the front hubs need to be reamed to .609" (39/64")
 
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390HP-MD

390HP-MD

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Thanks for the input fellas... BUT, this is getting a little more complicated, & extremely frustrating. The reason i bought the studs was because a week ago i felt the car wobble from side to side... i pulled over & the wheel was hanging on from ONE stug/lug. I did a bunch of searches on here & SVTP & figured it was a bad spacer or lack of thread with the lug/studs. So i bought:

New tires (Wasn't happy with the Sumitomos anyway)
New Studs (as mentioned)
New Spacers (LFP 3/8 Hubcentric)
New Lug Nuts (McGard)

I haven't installed the new studs but i did buy some stock ones from Murrays to see if the wobble would go away... NOPE... still there. This was with the new tires & new spacers. Could the wheel itself be bad... defective maybe? I noticed a couple of the holes on them (from the back) looked pretty bad... figured it was from the studs breaking. So what now? I have no experience at all with any of this & i'd rather not take it in quite yet w/out knowing what i'm getting myself into. Sorry for the long post... i just wanna get bak on the road. I appreciate all the input you guys can share.

Thanks,

Manny
 
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03mineralg

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Manny, sorry to hear about the problem. I drove it for a couple years with that setup and felt no wobble. Did you have the wheels off for any reason and not tighten the lugs enough or recheck them? I know there wasnt much thread left with the spacers on but i did order the extended tip lugs that gave a little more grip (supposedly). FYI, those spacers were purely cosmetic and you dont have to run them. You may have bent the wheels if it still wobbles, they are afs 17x10.5 chrome cobra r's. They have an ebay store and price them good. Your cheapest solution would be replace the lugs with standard lugs and ditch the spacer. Paul.
 
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390HP-MD

390HP-MD

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Hey Paul,

Yeah, it sucks... but with everyones help I'll get to the bottom of this. From what i've read here I think i have to run some kind of spacer with the 315s, due to the IRS bolt... even if it's shaved. I have the MM "low profile IRS bolts" but i think it'll still rub w/out the spacers. I'm gonna try switching the wheels around & see if it still wobbles from the other side... the process of elimination. Thanks Paul.

Manny
 
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03mineralg

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It depends on what brand 315 you are running. The summies that were on cleared the stock bolt without the spacers, i just had the spacers on to pull the tire out more for looks. If you replaced them with BF's or Goodyears youll need a spacer, any other brand check the fit you may not need them. Any questions you cant find answer's to always pm Dan (DANA) or any of the guy's at LDC.
 
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390HP-MD

390HP-MD

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Thanks Paul... i'll check that out first thing tomorrow morning. The spacers do make it look better though!
 

ShelbyGuy

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Jack up under the control arm and see if you can wiggle the wheel&tire assembly. It is quite possible the hub&bearing are shot, if you still have the wiggle. A loose axle nut (got dss?) will also make the back end wiggle, as will slop in the toe link rod.

Thanks Paul... i'll check that out first thing tomorrow morning. The spacers do make it look better though!
 

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