• đź’ˇ Fun fact. Whenever you start a thread, TCG Mechanic 5000 (our AI bot) will reply to you to start helping. It doesn't know everything and it will struggle with more complex questions but it can get the thread going and provide valuable information. You can choose to disable it prior to submitting a thread.

What would be a good N/A Setup.

Blood on Blood

rumble baby rumble
Apr 6, 2005
56,473
45,943
To keep it simple and reliable-

VT or DSS short block
Foxlake port/valvetrain upgrade on your heads
FR500 Cams and Springs set (lumpy sound, good idle and easy to tune)

4.10 gear (upgrade your axles and differential if they are stock)

You will be putting down approx. 370 rwhp and will be running similar times to what you are now.


Dave
 

Shane97Cobra

Addict
Apr 27, 2005
963
0
Mikey it depends how wild you want to go. There are many guys on Corral and ModDepot that have some very healty N/A set ups.

- Gettign some extra cubic inches in the shortblock would REALLY help the most. Either a big bore, stroker or big bore stroker.
* HEADS - Ditch the B Heads (96-98 cobra) for the most superior numbers. They are great for forced induction, but don't work effectivly for N/A combos, they really don't promote good torque. There are some guys using them and doing decent with them. Pick up a set of 03-04 cobra or FR500 heads for the biggest results. If you are going really big, no expense spared there is the 5.4L GT heads. But your looking at $2000-3000 BARE.
*CAMS - I've never been a fan of 4V cams. I know lots of guys are seeing decent numbers w/ the FR500 setup. You would have to read around to see what else is making waves w/ the NA heavy hitters.
* INTAKE - If you go with the 03-04 heads you have a couple diffent intake options. The FR500 intake will make sick power, it just cost sick money...$2500ish. Have a 99+ intake ported or made into a shortrunner intake. The other option is the aviator intake. If you stick w/ the B heads, look for a good ported short runner intake. The best is the JSR made by JIMS SVT on Corral. They make the most power and have little or no loss of torque. I have one on my car that might be foresale soon. So talk to me if you go that route. PHP also makes a ported short runner but is pricey and not as effective. SSR makes one also that is less costly.

That's it for now.
 

VENOMOUS98

Regular
May 30, 2004
153
0
Mike,

Shane is right about what he is saying with the heads and intake to pick, but you will make better power with a set of FR500 cams instead of the stock ones. My car made 390 hp & 380 tq with these engine mods:

Teskid aluminum block bored .020” over
Cobra crankshaft
Manley code r rods
J&E flattop pistons
Plasma moly rings
Compression Ratio 11:1
Stock heads
Stock intake
FR500 cam kit
ARP main studs
ARP head studs
JLT cold air intake tube
Grade 8 header bolts
Hooker long tube headers
Hooker o/r x-pipe
Borla catback exhaust
MSD spark plug wires
NGK TR6 copper spark plugs
March SFI pulleys
Gatorback serpentine belt
PCV oil separator
Powercoated red valve covers
Powercoated red intake cover
Custom tune

Thanks,

Chris
 
V

venmousracer

Guest
My thoghts,

Good pistons and rods!
Up the compression
port the heads,, full port job with valves etc....
Ported intake
all supporting mods
If you do cams, go with a set of comp cams and have them degreed in, very important!!!!

Should put out in the 350rwhp+ range, but it is cheaper to just do a rebuild and keep the blower...Eddie
 

SVT SPEED 04

TCG Elite Member
Jun 9, 2004
3,072
0
I would keep the rebuild simple as you can if you are serious abiut the C6. I see no reason in building a bottom end to pass on to someone else.

so keep this current rebuild simple or find a lower mileage long block to just swap out

maybe do the FR500 cams as others mentioned for a bit more power

just my .02
 

VenomInside

Just Grazing
Jul 16, 2004
25,980
3,791
SAC/DEN/SFO/CHI/SEA/PDX
I would keep the rebuild simple as you can if you are serious abiut the C6. I see no reason in building a bottom end to pass on to someone else.

so keep this current rebuild simple or find a lower mileage long block to just swap out

maybe do the FR500 cams as others mentioned for a bit more power

just my .02

Sounds like a plan, sir :)
 

Shane97Cobra

Addict
Apr 27, 2005
963
0
I would keep the rebuild simple as you can if you are serious abiut the C6. I see no reason in building a bottom end to pass on to someone else.

so keep this current rebuild simple or find a lower mileage long block to just swap out

maybe do the FR500 cams as others mentioned for a bit more power

just my .02

Now that I look back at the thread I see the part mentioning the saving for a C6.

If you are going to keep it N/A and just sell it I would look for a used stock short or long block and slap it back together. You aren't going to hurt the stock one N/A.
 

VENOMOUS98

Regular
May 30, 2004
153
0
If you are saving for a C6 in the near future then just add what I have listed below and you will have no problem running mid to high 12's.

Chris

Engine Mods:

Stock long block
Ported intake (optional)
FR500 cam kit (optional)
JLT cold air intake tube
Long tube headers
O/R x or h-pipe
Pulleys
Custom tune

Drive train Mods:
’03 Cobra T56 transmission (optional, but stock trans will break)
Clutch
Shifter
Aluminum drive shaft
4:30 Rear gears (4:56 with T56 trans)
Speed cal box (correct speedo)

Suspension Mods:
upper & lower control arms (will help rear tires to hook alot better)
 
V

venmousracer

Guest
Dude,

Bump the compression up,
long tube headers
x-pipe
catback
456 gear
aluminum drive shaft
tune
spporting mods for n/a combo
call it a day... Don't fear the gear!!!!!!!

I ran 12.40's with my 99 cobra with

456 gear
x-pipe
cai
tune and drag radials back in 2001

Eddie
 
Old Thread: Hello . There have been no replies in this thread for 90 days.
Content in this thread may no longer be relevant. Consider starting a new thread to get fresh replies.

Thread Info