3800 what all should be replaced?

Kyle

TCG Elite Member
Dec 30, 2008
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Downers Grove
Well I've been doing what I did before I got the gtp and have been stock pilling lots of random parts.

suspension is one of the first things i plan on tackling.
I have the gmpp handling kit (sway bars and trailing arms), but havent gotten the replacement bushings or anything yet, par#s anyone?

I also have eibachs and I'm going to get konis from the wbody store as well.
What else should i replace? strut mounts? both rear and front?

looking for ideas, since i'm gonna have this all torn apart i'm going to go ahead and put on my new rotors and probabally paint my calipers at this time too.

any other things that I should do while the car its torn apart like this?

thanks in advance guys

kyle
 

Kyle

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Dec 30, 2008
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Downers Grove
i bought it used, so it did not.

and i basiacally just dont wanna be another kyb/eibach person complaining about their ride.

and the bmr stuff is expensive and heavy so thats why i went with gmpp.

i think this should hanlde alright, all i really want is it not to feel like i'm driving a land boat like these fat ass cars really are :lol:
 

Fish

From the quiet street
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Aug 3, 2007
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I hear ya. I also heard that BMR sucks. Thats why they dont sell their parts anymore.

When I read the suspension forum on clubgp, I dont really hear that many complaints about KYB/eibach combos. They usually do the anti-pogo mod and that usually helps out alot.
 
I

imported_Ron Vogel

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Don't bother with the rear strut mounts. The fronts are a must though. I've changed out several sets of srtuts on different cars and the backs really don't see wear. You're going to want to get new spring cushions for all 4. They're cheap too. I have one new one for the rear you can have if you want. It was backordered when I did mine, and didn't want to wait for it before the install. The endlinks for the rear are pretty solid too, don't bother with them. The GMPP sways come with rubber bushings, in the long run you'll want to use them. My poly ones have been a PIA since they went in. I would suggest poly's for the front bar endlinks.

Trust me when I say this, rebuild your front lower control arms or, buy complete ones while you're doing all this. I didn't and now it has to all come back apart to replace them. If they wear, you'll get a lot of torque steer.

BTW, to do this job you need a powerful impact wrench. Or it will take an awfully long time. The biggest PIA is to get the bolt that goes through the rear knuckle to the trailing arm off. The bolt freezes in that pretty bad.

With a good set of power tools this should take roughly 4-5 hours for the complete job. If you need any help let me know.
 

CoolGTX

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Nov 17, 2008
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Originally posted by RoyalGTP@Jan 21 2005, 01:02 PM
id recomend the GMPP koni kit in minute.  Real easy to install.

Plus, you have a complete strut/spring/strutmount/etc/etc.........all as one complete unit.

Just slide it in.

Way to much work involved switching out the strut mounts/springs.
[snapback]68405[/snapback]​
so, what was the outcome of your bad GMPP/KONI strut?
 

Kyle

TCG Elite Member
Dec 30, 2008
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Downers Grove
Originally posted by Ron Vogel@Jan 21 2005, 08:34 AM
Don't bother with the rear strut mounts. The fronts are a must though. I've changed out several sets of srtuts on different cars and the backs really don't see wear. You're going to want to get new spring cushions for all 4. They're cheap too. I have one new one for the rear you can have if you want. It was backordered when I did mine, and didn't want to wait for it before the install. The endlinks for the rear are pretty solid too, don't bother with them. The GMPP sways come with rubber bushings, in the long run you'll want to use them. My poly ones have been a PIA since they went in. I would suggest poly's for the front bar endlinks.

Trust me when I say this, rebuild your front lower control arms or, buy complete ones while you're doing all this. I didn't and now it has to all come back apart to replace them. If they wear, you'll get a lot of torque steer.

BTW, to do this job you need a powerful impact wrench. Or it will take an awfully long time. The biggest PIA is to get the bolt that goes through the rear knuckle to the trailing arm off. The bolt freezes in that pretty bad.

With a good set of power tools this should take roughly 4-5 hours for the complete job. If you need any help let me know.
[snapback]68360[/snapback]​


do u happen to have the pn for lower control arm ron?

also when I do this i might give u a call just to have someone pointing at things telling me what to do. and I should have air tools at the garage i do my work at by the time i do this also.
 
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