🔧 BUILD Upside-down M90 GTP build thread

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When your wife gives you permission to build a racecar, you build a racecar.

This is what happened to me. However, all funding for this project comes out of my construction account. I really need a telehandler, so this is very budget friendly. Luckily, I've been stockpiling parts for years. This isn't an overnight build by any means. My goal is to make a 1/4 mile pass with it before the tracks close for the season. I'm taking a risk here and using photobucket for image hosting, so hopefully they don't screw me over again.

So let's start it off. I bought a 04 L26 motor with somewhere north of 100k on it and started to tear it down.

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Everything looks good so far. The pistons are really clean. There was some junk sitting in the oil pan, but not much.

Turbocharged400sbc

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I think maybe you're just looking at your rotors having worn into the case after it's relocation upside down. I wonder if you slapped new rotors in there whether you would gain that boost back till they wore back down.

I know our blower case shifted after I cut off the inlet.
I ended up grinding the tops of the bores after we welded on the new plenum but I think that's partially because the weld was less than half an inch away from the rotor surface along the top edge of our new throttle body plenum.

Put a methanol nozzle in the middle of that giant gaping hole that you've been shoving your pecker into and see if that will tighten up the clearances and gain you back the Boost?
You can probably do something fairly effective with just a long vacuum hose and a mouth full of water while you're driving
 
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Mr_Roboto

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I think maybe you're just looking at your rotors having worn into the case after it's relocation upside down. I wonder if you slapped new rotors in there whether you would gain that boost back till they wore back down.

I know our blower case shifted after I cut off the inlet.
I ended up grinding the tops of the bores after we welded on the new plenum but I think that's partially because the weld was less than half an inch away from the rotor surface along the top edge of our new throttle body plenum.

Put a methanol nozzle in the middle of that giant gaping hole that you've been shoving your pecker into and see if that will tighten up the clearances and gain you back the Boost?
You can probably do something fairly effective with just a long vacuum hose and a mouth full of water while you're driving
The question in my mind is could you do something like dykem or sharpie or hell even use some gear marking paste and check the mesh/case fitment? I realize it may be a pain in the jimmy but figure I'd ask. How would a company that does roots like Heaton, Dyers, GMC etc. have done it/does do it? Ultimately they have to.
 
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GTPpower

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I guess I should buy a water meth kit and try that. Maybe the 1/2" aluminum plate that holds it, isn't as strong as I think it is.

Anyone know if it's possible for belt slip to still show fairly consistent boost? When I ran a 2.3, it was super obvious when the belt would slip, but on the 2.7 and 2.8 boost stays pretty consistent. I was thinking about going to an 8 rib.
 

GTPpower

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I have a npt port in the throttle body spacer for future meth injection, but remember that's post blower. To inject water/meth into the blower, it will end up going through the intercooler, TB, and maf. I wouldn't mind trying a little water in it, but not sure I want to do too much.

I've never run anything more than a 6 rib on any of my cars. I never really saw much of an advantage to more belt surface since it results in less pressure. But these pulleys are cheap. I should try the triangle file trick and see what happens.
 
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Mr_Roboto

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I wouldn't do their turbo cams they look to be reverse pattern. You're running a blower still you want extra exhaust duration even though the 3800 head seems very efficient based off flow #s. How much street use will this see, how much stall are you willing to run, and how high are you willing to spin it? Those are the questions in my mind for the cam selection. Being soft on the bottom end may not be the end of the world in a FWD car quite honestly. May actually help you keep some parts in it to do what would normally be over camming.

Assuming racey I'd go for the IS3 or IS4 supercharged cam or even the IS3 N/A cam. If you're not willing to spin it super high I'd try what you have. The big thing in my opinion is the easier air flows through the engine the more the Heaton can give you. The XPZ is a huge step up from the stocker though and I don't know that I'd be afraid to leave it until I squeezed everything from it.
 

Turbocharged400sbc

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Meh.

By the way unless that's the core that prj modified for a post-core boost bypass passage for the external boost bypass valve.

delete the Boost bypass valve if it does not pass through the intercooler core before getting recirculated back into the blower.


The animal kit does that and it's a s***** compromise.
it's what led to lunching the Whipple on The WhippledRiv
 

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