Turbos and Valvetrain

Mr_Roboto

Doing the jobs nobody wants to
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no point to twincharge imo.

From a performance standpoint, I agree. I just like the the flair. lol

As said I've seen dyno sheets on two setups in comparison (I was trying to find them on The Turbo Forums but can't) and they both got about 500 RPM off full boost. From memory one was a VW oddly and the other was a GMTwhatever truck with an LS engine and a TVS/turbo setup.

In terms of tuning, do your research. There's definitely RPM/spool to be had in timing and fuel. Some people add fuel and retard timing to do stuff like that to add heat to the exhaust stream.
 

10sec

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There's a reason people either go turbo or go M90 and not both. Too much heat, too much shit all over the engine bay, for what? A slightly better 0-15mph? Spending money on a properly sized turbo will fix everything until it is auto. Auto he can sit on the converter to spool the current turbo and all will be fine.
 

Yaj Yak

Gladys
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I agree this probably isn't smart with a t5.

There isn't any extra heat once the turbo takes over.

As far as a bunch of extra shit in the engine bay, I'm not sure where that came from. You have one extra switch wired in that would not be there on a turbo or m90 only.

wait

how is there no extra heat?

one switch to run an M90?

you wouldn't want an a2w intercooler under it? what belt drive is going to spin it? not to mention... being in an fbody, where's the throttle body winding up?
 

10sec

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Jul 26, 2008
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wait

how is there no extra heat?

one switch to run an M90?

you wouldn't want an a2w intercooler under it? what belt drive is going to spin it? not to mention... being in an fbody, where's the throttle body winding up?

I think he's just fighting to prove his point, which is whatever. Nobody twin charges their car due to complexity, engine bay space, and extra heat, especially in an F-body.
 

GTPpower

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Jun 5, 2012
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There is no extra heat beyond what a m90 makes or a turbo makes on their own setups, respectively.

The switch controls the m90 bypass.

There isn't room on an fbody for an a2w. A standard l67 belt drive spins it. Most guys hack up the blower and weld an elbow on to face the tb forward.
 

Mattstrike

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Ej8cOwN.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/Z4K4FUH.mp4


If you're compounding, then sure there's extra heat. But I'd think given the application you'd want parallel, which bypasses the heat generator once the turbo spools.
 

Yaj Yak

Gladys
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the hot as fuck m90 blower is sitting on top of the engine, if it's bypassed or not, it will be adding heat to the setup.

not to mention the air coming out of the blower at first is still going to be hot as fuck at first... just because it's "bypassed" doesn't mean it magically stops spinning and getting warmer either :rofl:
 

Yaj Yak

Gladys
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Kj, please learn how a positive displacement blower works. Thanks.

hey man, think about it slowly, with me

is the blower spinning? does that create heat? does heat transfer from the metal blower to the metal intake manifold to the metal heads :rofl: i know full well once it's "bypassed" it won't be huffing heat into it, but i 10000% guarantee the outlet temps under a bypassed m90 with a turbo huffing into it, are greater than a l26/36 or whatever, na intake manifold with a turbo huffing into it.

er nah? did you magically add another something to the equation? phenolic spacer so it doesn't heat the parts it's attached to? i know how a positive displacement blower works, i also know what you're recommending is dumb as shit in this setup :rofl:
 

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OP - "Hi, turbo company, I have this and this, could you properly size me a turbo?"

Done.

TCG - "Get a bigger cam, and a $600 gimmick plate, and throw on a blower you don't already have, ohhh, it's easy to install. I did it and had ZERO problems."
 

Yaj Yak

Gladys
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OP - "Hi, turbo company, I have this and this, could you properly size me a turbo?"

Done.

TCG - "Get a bigger cam, and a $600 gimmick plate, and throw on a blower you don't already have, ohhh, it's easy to install. I did it and had ZERO problems."

:bowrofl:




oh yeah, let's also have to change a fuel rail setup, are we swapping heads or ghetto'ing an m90 onto the l36 heads?


also, all to go through a trans barely able to handle it's current power level. K.
 

GTPpower

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hey man, think about it slowly, with me

is the blower spinning? does that create heat? does heat transfer from the metal blower to the metal intake manifold to the metal heads :rofl: i know full well once it's "bypassed" it won't be huffing heat into it, but i 10000% guarantee the outlet temps under a bypassed m90 with a turbo huffing into it, are greater than a l26/36 or whatever, na intake manifold with a turbo huffing into it.

er nah? did you magically add another something to the equation? phenolic spacer so it doesn't heat the parts it's attached to? i know how a positive displacement blower works, i also know what you're recommending is dumb as shit in this setup :rofl:

Does it create heat? Sure, an imeasurable amount.
 

Mr_Roboto

Doing the jobs nobody wants to
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I was more bringing the point up in case he has some stuff sitting around in the garage. Lots of guys who have done 3800s forever do. Not only that but you're not going to pulley the shit out of the Heaton you're going to run it at stock boost levels.

Now then the T5 I can't help you with. I would think even a basic bitch 60-1 would be enough to finish it off in the long run. If I didn't have parts stashed I would probably be shoving a cam in it or going auto.
 

1quick

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wait

how is there no extra heat?

one switch to run an M90?

you wouldn't want an a2w intercooler under it? what belt drive is going to spin it? not to mention... being in an fbody, where's the throttle body winding up?

The blower just free wheels once a set boost number is achieved, say 10psi the bypass opens and the turbo blows through that the compressor is no longer compressing though they hold a lot of heat the compressing air part is what makes them super hot
 
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