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🔧 Technical Turbo LS4 with 4T80-E build.

Trinten

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Thank you, it's something I will keep in mind.
So far we've been lucky with this USB adapter. Mike had one for his GN (he's running FAST as well), and it met a physical end. I picked up this replacement for him about two years ago and it's been working fine for the tuning he's been doing on his and other FAST cars. If anything does start to look strange, I will pony up for the FAST cable.
 

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Slow but important progress today.
Last week Mike had gotten back his cardboard mock-ups for the fuel tank. He gave me the measurements and I ordered the 304 stainless.

Today was marking up the material and doing a lot of careful plasma cutting! Mike wanted to maximize the use of the space, and as others have pointed out in other posts about making tanks, that is a difference between total volume and usable capacity. So we're trying to make sure any increases in volume will yield a reasonable increase of usable capacity. Because of the approach, there were a fair number of compound curves, but thanks to the effort on the mockup and the clean cuts of the plasma cutter, things are coming together pretty well so far.

Unfortunately, my phone decided to freak out and has stumbled into constant-reboot (rarely even reaching the lock screen, and will even reboot when I get to the factory recovery screen... so I think it's pooched). I don't do the whole 'cloud backup' thing, either. Unfortunately my paranoia on cyber security has also made it tough for me to setup things on my replacement phone. lol. Oh well. I'll get it worked out eventually, but any pics I hadn't already copied from phone to computer are gone - barring some miracle combination of buttons to get my phone to be stable long enough to copy things off. I'm not holding my breath.

So the pics we have are ones I took with Mike's phone that he emailed to me, which were after enough of the tank was tacked up to start doing test fitting.

We're going to move where the rubber hose comes from the fill tube into the tank, so I need to find the measurements of the ID and OD of that hose and get one that is longer at both legs (for both the fill hose and the breather).

Deatschwerks makes an adjustable fuel sender that we will likely use.

Mike started mocking up the trapdoor and the "sloshwall" in the tank. The trapdoor will be about a 1/3 from the back third, and another thing I'm going to call a "slosh wall" because I don't recall what he called it (a panel with a small cut out at top and bottom) about 1/3 from the front.

Here are the pics of the tacked-up, partially assembled tank shoved into the car for fitment checks.

tank_1.jpg



tank_2.jpg
 
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Trinten

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Very cool, hope the gaps are smaller than the pics make em look. This is a time suck of a project, glad a fuel cell fit mine without this sort of work.

Oh yeah, the gaps only look as bad as they do there from some of the subtle angles that we haven't shaped joining pieces to. The top of the tank has an 'hourglass' spot, as well as a 45 degree drop as it tapers in towards the front. And no pressbrake to work with, so it was a lot of measuring, making tons of little marks, and bending on a work bend with human pressure, a hammer, and/or a vise.

For some of the "pretty close" spots where we did tack welds, I would push the metal together and hold it while he tacked and we give it a few seconds to cool so the spring from the metal didn't stretch out the weld.
 

Trinten

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This weekend was more working on the fuel tank, and a few other odds and ends once we reached out limits with the tank for today. As mentioned before, the tunnel has some hourglass / mirrored sawtooth curves to it, so the top of the tank follows that.

Using a giant C-clamp we will bring in the sides to weld it without putting creases in the tank that don't need to be there. Before we do that we're going to get the baffles and trapdoor put in to add rigidity to the sidewalls. The bottom of the tank is marginally trapezoid shaped, so there will be an opening where the baffles can be tacked to the flat/wide bottom, before the angled corners are welded on.

gas_tank_clamped.jpg



It's slow going, a lot of measurements, marking and careful cutting with the plasma cutter using tall angle iron clamped on for guides.

Mike's also given me the information and plans for the fuel level sender he wants, and how he's going to run the fill and pickup piping. When it's all done and we do our leak test, we'll empty it by pumping it out through the pick-up into 5 gallon buckets, so we can get a measurement of the useable capacity.

I took the time to clean out the tank tunnel, and put in temp/sound insulating material. You can see how some of those curves, especially at the top came into place with fitting in the insulation. After I took these pics I used some small pieces to fill in the exposed spots. Part of the reason is when using pump gas, that tunnel becomes a radiator! With my last V8 Fiero, I didn't even need to use the heater in the car once I was driving for a little bit. E85 supposedly doesn't get as heat soaked as gasoline, but I won't be running E85 all the time.

clean_tank_tunnel.jpg


tunnel_insul_1.jpg


tunnel_insul_2.jpg



Previously when under the car I noticed the plate we made to mount the flex fuel sensor had started to rust. I thought it was a part we forgot to send off for powdercoating, Mike said he thought we had made it out of stainless (apparently not). So I took that off and he used some of the 304 I got for the fuel tank to make a new plate.

flex_fuel_new_bracket.jpg



Mike also did a test fit of the wheel well covers, and was amazed to see they fit in there and around the Corvette suspension without any major issues.

wheel_well_cover.jpg



The mounting bracket for the upper control arm is not welded in yet. Mike wants to get the car to an alignment shop and make sure everything aligns properly with plenty of adjustment room left before he welds them in.
 

Trinten

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In my last Fiero it was just the fuel passing through the system (return style fuel system). That was also with the stock Fiero tank, which holds around 10 gallons of gas, and has a small cross section that isn't enclosed (the bottom, which is long but narrow, and limited air current under the car), so not as much room to cast off the heat the fuel was taking on.

I sent an email to ISSPro asking if they can make a tube-style fuel level sender that meets my requirements. They apparently manufacturer units for Tanks Inc., who were up front in saying that E85 would eat up the electronics in their units. ISSPro offers epoxy coated electronics, as well as the standard conformal stuff. They told me a tech would give me a call tomorrow to discuss the specifics of what I need. Hopefully if they don't have something 'on the shelf', having them produce a one-off won't be a kick-in-the-balls cost.

And if it is a one-off situation, I'll probably buy two. I hate having custom or rare parts and not having a backup.
 

Trinten

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ISS Pro was great to work with. I sent them an email, they emailed me back within an hour to ask when it would be a good time for one of their techs to call me.
Don called when they said he would, he went over everything with me, tank placement, headroom for the cap, other things they could do to the unit, they were even open to making the lead wires any length I wanted.

So it'll have a coating to protect the electronics from E85, the appropriate length (they go by half-inch increments). They had it made for me in less than 3 days, and the price, with shipping, is the same as it would have been buying one that didn't have the features I needed (namely being E85 compatible) from one of their resellers on Summit!

He even took the time to make sure I understood how the tube style senders work (theirs in particular has a 9-step sender), so it won't be as 'smooth' as the arm-coil-resister style. I'm not too worried about it, I don't like getting under a quarter of a tank of fuel in any car I drive, especially not one that has a tough time breaking into the 20mpg highway range (my last Fiero with the SBC and a 5 speed manual, best I got on the highway was 21.5, and that was on a very long highway run without any real change in speed). I'll be curious to see what this setup spits out for me.
 

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Small updates for the moment.

First up is I bought the Fiero car cover through the Fiero Store, and so far I am really impressed by it. It came with extra plastic grommets, it was very well fitted, seemed well constructed. We'll see how it holds up.

Recently I worked on fitting in the rear wheel well covers, I bought all new hardware from Fiero Store, because it's inexpensive and then not fighting rust and grime, Both sides required some trimming, the passenger side less than the driver side. This was mostly because of the Corvette suspension and some other places where Mike had massaged things to make the clean fitting openings for the intercooler tubing.

To help make the wheel well covers look 'cleaner', Mike gave me the name of a company he uses to buy neoprene sheets. Apparently some G-Body cars had neoprene parts to their wheel well covers to act as flexible flaps, so we're going to apply that same approach here. I took pictures of the progress, but figured I'd wait till they were done, take pictures, and post it all up together.

We started doing our checklist to do wiring for the FAST TCU. As I did with the XFI, I'll be contacting my wire supplier for the appropriate striped wire color combinations once Mike let's me know what colors we need for my setup. I want to do as much as I can to use colors that will be consistent with the FAST diagrams, to make any future troubleshooting or repairs easier. Hopefully the wire company won't have a large backlog that we need to wait through.

Beyond the stuff on my car, Mike has been busy working with the G-body race team with prepping their car for the season, and starting to see what pieces he needs to do his F23/3800 swap on a Fiero he picked up shortly after mine got to his place. This one is separate from the Indy he'll be restoring. He informed me won't be going with me to Carlisle this year, but will definitely be at the 40th.

As far as other customer projects, someone picked up an off-center stage 2 GN motor, so he's swapping it into that guys Grand National, with the intention of having it ready to go to the big Grand National even in Bowling Green. He's a busy guy.

Remaining checklist for my car that I can think of:

1) TCU wiring
2) finish welding / testing / measuring useable volume of the gas tank / installing it.
3) Routing Intercooler water hose
4) Install my cruise control unit
5) Alignment
6) finish welding the front upper control arm mounting plates once we know it's well centered (hence the alignment being first)
7) install new switch module and key cylinder in the steering column (my request, doesn't seem to be necessary)
8) Toss in a basic interior for now
9) Tune it!

That's a much shorter punchlist than what I had a year ago.
 

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The fuel tank is done!

Highlights: 304 stainless steel (including the weld-on bungs, baffle, trapdoor, etc).

The stainless fill and vent tubes runs to the center section of the tank, filling it from there so it wouldn't be stopped by the trap door (additional fabrication work, but worth it).

We set it up and did a test of usable capacity (how much gravity fed out of the tank when it was level, until the stream reduced to pencil size. Mike referred to this as "sitting idle" usable capacity, citing that if one where to goose the gas a little, fuel would rush back and be retained near the bank of the tank for a while thanks to the trapdoor.

We then tilted the nose up to see how much more was left in the tank. Those number will be posted later... and we are happy with them.

To recap, last year Mike used cardboard to workup a form fitting template to the tunnel in the Fiero. We wanted to use as much of the space as possible.

He then taped the template together, and had hoped a friend of his that owns an industrial overhead door company would have found the time to cut out the more uniform parts and bend them in a brake for us. That didn't happen, so Mike had to put in considerable more time with the plasma cutter and welder to put the tank together.

I'm at about $800 in materials in the tank (the flat stainless, tubes, bungs, stainless trap door).

Onto some pictures!

The rubber filler/breather tubes in the Fiero were sonic welded together, and both were in bad shape. So replacements were sourced. Here a picture of the old filler tube.

old_filler_tube.jpg



Here is the template and top part of the tank before we bent it to follow the 'dip' in the tunnel. This is a great image to show some of the complexity that went into the tank. After the bends were introduced, it made tack welding a few spots a two man job, as there wasn't a good way to get clamps to hold things where they need to stay and still be able to weld.

top_template_and_flat_cut.jpg



Before Mike welded on the additional bottom extension I suggested (it's still not the lowest part of the car, don't worry). I took the opportunity to take some pictures of the front baffle. There is an identical notch on the opposite side. He used the baffles as internal structures to secure many of the pieces to a 'core'. The position of the baffles was picked by where the tank straps sit, insuring rigidity.

front_baffle_bottom.jpg



Next up is the stainless supply bung. We discussed the idea of having a "blister" of some kind, that would create an internal 'dip' for fuel to drop into, but we decided against it, as that would have become the lowest point under the car, and a higher chance of something happening that would compromise the tank. Besides, with the trap door, it should keep fuel back there without issues, negating most of the benefit.

fuel_supply_bung.jpg



I talked about the fuel sender alright. Mike's measurements were spot on for it, meeting their requirement for space at the bottom of the tank, and let Mike recess the mounting point of the fuel sender. Here's a picture of it during a test fit, before he welded it into place.

recessed_sender.jpg



In the tunnel there is this pocket that we originally wanted to make use of. Unfortunately, in our first test fit we found that it would be impossible to have enough wiggle room to connect/disconnect fittings and hoses, since the nose would be wedged into the pocket and the back of the tank would have to 'swing' up and down into position. So Mike had to cut off that portion and weld it back up. Capacity lost was minor, less than a quarter of a gallon.

Here's picture of it setup for our leak and capacity testing. There is some minor distortion/waviness to the metal. Stainless steel really dislikes being TIG welded in cold weather.

leak_and_capacity_test_setup.jpg



We capped off everything (including small breather vent) and filled it up to the top of the larger fill tube, which is above the tank. This, and rotating the tank, allowed us to make sure all the welds were tested. We found one pinhole. Not bad for so much welding!

After that, it was "idle usable capacity" test time! Place your bets! (we did!)

We used a 5 gallon bucket, and filled it up 3 times before the stream from the tank got to be less than pencil sized in width. That's 15 gallons!!

After lifting the nose a few inches, (now emptying it into a 1 gallon jug - empty windshield wiper jug) we got to a little over the halfway mark. So overall capacity is ~15.5 gallons. Given that the later, larger stock tanks were 11.9 total capacity gallons (and most people guess it's about 10.5 - 10.75 usable capacity), I'll take our 3 gallon increase!

Next weekend will be installation and then pressurizing the fuel system to check for any leaks there. If no leaks, we will begin the idle tuning of the car!

There is a vendor that makes exact replacement tanks, and they are top quality, made out of aluminum. We wanted to see if we could make something to hold more, and we wanted it to be out of stainless. And if we ran into issues, or hit a time crunch, that was our backup plan.
 

Trinten

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I had hoped by now to be able to post a link to the engine running. Alas we've hit some electrical gremlins that we are now chasing down.

The engine harness is the original one that came with the LS4. This one is temporary since I'm using a Drive By Cable setup, so there were some extraneous wires from the DBW that aren't being used, and some wires that were added for things like the TPS.

Back in November, the FAST setup was talking to the engine, and we were able to get it to run by spritzing some fuel into the throttle body. FAST showed injectors were firing (though nothing to fire, no gas tank at this point), and it obviously had spark because it ran for that few seconds until it ate up the fuel.

A few weeks ago, after installing the tank, the XIM part of the fast was refusing to fire the injectors. We confirmed it was seeing the injectors by doing a fault test. So Mike went through the lengthy troubleshooting (starting with Canbus wires, terminators, etc). Yesterday we finished ohming wires and checking for loose pins, and found our loose culprit.

We were excited, the XIM was now seeing all it's inputs and was trying to fire off the injectors! We put the fuse in for the fuel pump, starting cranking.... no start. Check everything, try again. No start. Confirmed the injectors are spraying fuel (the mufflers and their mounting 'T' is not connected, and after a combined 30 seconds or so of cranking over a few attempts, fuel was at the opening of the exhaust).

Now since it ran for a few moments in November, we didn't think it was a spark issue, but that's the next thing to check. And here's where it's gotten a little strange.

There is spark. Very weak spark, like sometimes you'll 'hear' the spark more than see it.

1. We check voltage coming into the coils. 12.7v.

2. Grounds are good, this grounding to the block, which has good grounds to the frame, because the starter is grounded to the block and is spinning the engine without any issues. We also tested it by grounding the spark plug in different ways (first by touching the threads against a bolt on the block, another time with a wire leading directly to another ground. That second one was my idea, Mike thought it was unnecessary due to the strong starter rotation but he was kind enough to humor me).

3. We double check the dwell times (the D585 coils need a dwell time closer to 4 - 4.5ms, versus the default 5.5)

4. We check a few other plugs, all the same (also, no fouling or anything else, they look good)

5. We swap off a coil for a known good one from an LS1 (and adjust the dwell time for it). No change, spark is still barely there.

So we hook a laptop up to the FAST so we can log what's going on. When cranking:
1. The engine shows 250-300 RPMs, then a moment of "zero", then jumps back up again. It's very consistent. Mike thinks that might be normal for a 24x reluctor wheel, but he's going to check.

2. During those times that the engine shows the 250-300 rpm, the FAST is telling the injectors to go to 100% duty cycle! Mike was surprised by this, comparing start up logs to the FAST system in his car, that is unusual behavior. It also made him go and pull more plugs to see if any of them were fouled. They weren't.

3. We may have either a bad TPS sensor, or there is some EMI that we need to hunt down and fix. FAST is logging an erratic TPS signal, jumping from 0% to ~15%. Mike has one of those clamp shaped tools that you can use to check for EMI, so that is on the list to do later, to see if need a new sensor or need to shield something.

The first thing we're trying to figure out is the weak spark issue. We have good grounds, coil packs are good, voltage is good, so that's our head scratcher right now. If anyone else has any thoughts, please let me know. There's nothing in the FAST configuration (except dwell time) that we could think of or find that would affect this.
 
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Mr_Roboto

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I'm not sure how the cranking on a FAST box works, but on a Megasquirt it's done by pulse width. Keep in mind if you have huge injectors vs stockish ones that you could potentially put in a bunch of fuel if it's running based off fixed PW.

Also, what does the cam sensor look like it's doing? The reason I'm asking that is I'm wondering if it's cranking for a few cycles then the cam sensor is messing it up.

Also, I'd try cracking the TB blade open a hair and seeing if you're getting enough air at idle. My TPI Engine in the Astro had that problem. Do you have a PCV, and do you have an IAC? I would make sure the IAC opens. When I was having problems though, it would tend to "catch" then to stall. Regardless not a bad place to check really.
 

Trinten

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Thank you for the suggestions.

To the best of my understanding (which is limited. I'm just the tool monkey and the guy who writes checks), FAST can be set to read either inductive crank sensor or hall effect sensor. We know we have this configured correctly, because it won't see anything if you have it set to the wrong one (I don't remember which I have right now, because FAST calls it something else other than inductive or hall effect).

Mike did manipulate the throttle body when cranking, to see if the air flow was the issue. I do have an IAC. We haven't played with that at all yet, since the engine isn't even "stumbling", just cranking along.

No PVC.

Injectors are 1400cc (or basically 133 lbs/hr).
 

Trinten

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Thank you!
Yes, prior to trying to do any cranking at all, we did a pressurized fuel system check. We started up the pump, let it get to pressure, then shut it off and watched the pressure gauge while we checked for any obvious leaks. Thankfully no issues (so far) with any fuel leaks. I will pass along the info on the pulse width for cranking!

I realized I missed replying to your initial question on the cam sensor. The FAST is seeing the cam sensor, and the logs for that look correct, no erratic/unexpected behavior.
 
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Trinten

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We found the problem with our starting issue, and got it running!! Also found more hiccups!

To cover the no-start issue first, the crank position sensor was bad. Mike figured it out by doing a bunch more logging and looking at dashboards on the FAST while he had me crank the engine for a few seconds every few minutes.

This let us test our disassembly options. We took off the passenger wheel, took out the wheel well liner, took off the header bolts of the rear bank, opened the V-Clamp at the end of that header, and with a little wiggling and leverage, slipped the exhaust manifold off the studs and out of the v-band, and then slid it sideways out the side of the car. Not having strut towers is awesome!

Getting the sensor out was a little bit of blind work, but Mike is used to that kind of stuff, so it wasn't an issue. He also found this other testing tool for testing spark. It's difficult to describe and I didn't take a picture of it, the spark plug screws into a collar that has an elongated ceramic center piece and a tall wall around it. He says it needs to show strong spark for it to jump all the way up the ceramic insulator and hit the wall. With the sensor replaced, it did just that!

So now we have spark! We put everything back together (which did take two hands, I had to lean over the side and reach from the front side of the vband to hold it in place while Mike latched it), turn on the fuel pump, try to start it... it sputters, crank crank crank. Sputters... crank crank. Okay. Back to the logs.

We see the TPS is still doing bizarre signaling. To rule out an EMI issue, Mike simply unplugs it. Problem goes away. He plugs it back in, and tries the travel of the TPS. To summarize how bad it was, nothing would register till about half-throttle. At full throttle, it was only reading 85%.

So he goes into his boxes of spare and test parts and pulls out a used GM OEM TPS. We slap that on there.... all the issues vanish.

He then played with the timing a little, added a lot of fuel, and we got it to where it wants to idle. To rule out the IAC (which came with the TB along with the TPS), I've ordered a new one of those as well as a new TPS.

Next weekend will be installing the new TPS and IAC, getting the wideband hooked up to the FAST, start working on the controller for the coolant pump. That could get a little messy. Mike's TIG welder (I think TIG, he has both TIG and MIG) is acting up, and there is still a pinhole in the radiator he needs to fix. But we can't do long running idle tuning without getting the coolant system working properly. So we'll deal with a slow drip of coolant for the time being.

I have a video of it idling without the mufflers on, when I get it uploaded someplace I will post a link.

To celebrate tonight, I have opened up a bottle of Col. E.H. Taylor. I am having that with some dark chocolate covered almonds. Seriously, you start chewing on a few, then take a sip of bourbon. Suddenly these awesome cherry flavors come through and it's amazing.
 
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Trinten

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Saturday was productive, though cut short due to an on-call issue involving Mike's day job.

We finished wiring up all of the auxiliary sensors (back pressure, wide band, fuel pressure) We cleaned up a little of the wiring.

The current iteration of the engine harness was a modification of the original 2007 GXP 5.3 harness. When we were putting it together, the LS4 King Moroso pan was on there (so no low oil sensor provision anymore), no EGR, no DBW, so all those wires were removed. The rest of the original harness was used. Here's where we are scratching our heads. There is a lone brown wire.

I searched the internet for a 2007 5.3 wiring diagram, and found one that was hopefully correct. The two components with a plain brown wire were the EGR sensor and low oil sensor. Since we don't have those, we weren't sure where on the engine that wire is terminating. So for the moment we're leaving it alone and we'll see what doesn't work as we go through things.

Once that was done Mike finished wiring things up for key-on / ignition from the C500 and to the auxiliary fuse box we have stashed where the OEM trunk blower motor was. After that we started doing a little start-up tuning, letting it run for about 5 seconds each time. We have it starting up pretty easily now.

We need to verify our fuel pressure, right now we're guessing on that, and having told Fast what to map to the transducer. So at some point Mike will likely break out an old school fuel pressure gauge and put it in line someplace.

Next week we'll be putting the center/cabin section of the engine wiring harness in the car (and then I need to get some non-plastic split loom for it). Then getting into some more tuning and starting to clean up the rats nest of wires in the "frunk".
 

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Lazy guy update - I finally bothered to connect my phone to my computer to move the video off from this past Saturday. A short video after we did some tuning, this was just before we wrapped up for the day.

Hopefully in the next few weeks, LaFiera will be able to stop by and dial in the TecMotive controller for the water pump I'm using and possibly one of the radiator fans. I'm going to let him and Mike hash that out. I hope that the FAST can be set to kick on the second radiator fan when A/C turns on or when there's another coolant threshold that is breached.

Anyhow. After that's done, we'll be able to run the engine longer for tuning and videos!

This one is still without mufflers. You can tell it's running a lot smoother than it was in the last video.

 

Trinten

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IT MOVES!

Today was a good day. LaFiera (friend from the Fiero forum) made the trip out to speed up getting the TecMotive controller wired, making sure it works, and giving me a crash course in how it works and the different modes.

We put distilled water in the system, filling it through the surge tank (didn't want to use coolant yet, and it was a good guess). LaFiera made sure the pump was working and would kick on the fan, and Mike fired up the car and started doing some tuning.

I took a handful of disjointed videos, there was a lot of activity with the two of them doing different stuff. Out of the ones I took, I liked this one the best. (hopefully this hyperlink works okay)

I didn't get the one where Mike tested to see if the car would move under it's own power (making sure it would shift into gear and listen for any odd noises from the transmission/torque converter). He didn't tell us what he was going to do, just said "Everybody get back." in a pretty firm voice, which made me think there was a problem at first. He just wanted to make sure no one wound up with crushed toes.

The downside is, once the distilled water heated up, we discovered a pinhole in the surge tank that was too small to turn up from a gravity check. It sucks that we already had that part powder coated, so that'll need to be done again. You can see in the video where I took the cap off to see if I needed to add more water as the air burped out, and where LaFiera is tweaking the TecMotive controller.

I still need to buy a vacuum block, the vacuum tubes are currently taped off, but it's not likely air tight.

We are really amped up about the progress!

Again, a huge thanks to LaFiera for making the trip and helping out. It was great hanging out with you for a while!
 
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Trinten

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Hey guys, small update from last Saturday - since we're running the car more, we put on a temporary air filter solution. Mike mounted the mufflers so we could see how it would sound.

After one of the test runs, one of his neighbors that likes to stop by warns me "don't touch anything back there, it's gonna be hot!!"
So I hover my hand near the exhaust, and yeah, it's a little toasty. Then I gingerly put my hand down on the turbo blanket. It was warm, but not uncomfortably. I could just leave my hand there. Mike and his neighbor were both pretty impressed. I was pleased that the combo of the Jethot and the blanket seem so effective. I'll know more after it's had some more run time than then ten minutes or so it was running/revving while Mike played with the tune.

So here is one of those videos so you can compare the sound with the mufflers to how it sounds without them. It's still rowdy, but when the throttle is pushed, it doesn't "scream/braaap", it just gets louder. Mike was worried the mufflers were going to make it too quiet, he was surprised it was still as loud as it is. I kinda hoped it would be a little quieter. We'll see how it when driving.


Beyond that, Mike finished cleaning up a lot of the wiring in the frunk, and he mounted up the FAST stuff again.
This weekend will be installing the engine control harness in the cabin and working on secondary wiring tasks, hooking up the vacuum distributor, and temporarily plumbing in a manual fuel gauge so we can calibrate what the FAST is seeing (and then probably change tuning stuff).

We are running out of weekends. I'm always a little pessimistic with schedules and time.
Some things Mike will need to do during the week (like the Alignment stuff).
Some he can do during the week if his schedule allows it (like finishing up welding things after the alignment checks out).
Then getting the last of the things powder coated.
We need to finish running/connecting the tubes for the intercooler.

Then there's dyno tuning (with and without mufflers. Yay V-band clamps) and putting as much miles on it as possible to make sure it's going to be up for the road trips this year.
 

Trinten

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Aug 7, 2018
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The last few weekends have been focused on cleaning up things that we are done with, loom and tidying up wiring in the engine bay, getting the intermediate harness loomed and going through the car (instead of just laying on top of it), and looming up the XFI and XIM.

Yesterday and today Mike spent some time getting the transmission harness built. One thing we realized is the metal information plate that is press-fitted to the transmission was gone. I don't remember it ever being there. So I don't know the final gear ratio of my 4T80. Worst case is we'll put in a gear ratio and see if the TCU throws a fit when we start to move it under it's own power. I'm going to email Triple Edge Performance, hopefully his documentation has the information on there. I looked through the emails we had and I didn't see it mentioned.

With the harness made, we hooked it up (laying it over the car until we know it's all working as intended), and hooked the TCU up to the laptop. It connects via a direct USB connection, and it has a canbus feed with the XFI. We confirmed that the XFI was passing information along (such as TPS and coolant temp), and that the transmission temp sensor was working.

We also tested out some of the faults, and we saw the TCU send signals to put the transmission into "limp home" mode. We won't know for sure if we have everything wired up correctly until we start rolling it around on it's own power, the nice part is the software for the TCU gives you a very informative dash, that includes what gear you're currently in, what gear the TCU is going to ask for next, immediate fault codes, stored fault codes, etc. And you can select which fault codes you want it to monitor/ignore.

After that was done, Mike started working on the vacuum manifold plumbing, he came up with a solution he liked better than his initial setup, so we had to pop the intake off to get to the bits going to the bottom of it. That's almost done, I had to order a tube sleeve & nut, as well as an NPT to AN adapter.

Mike is going to chase the powdercoating guy this week, if we don't have everything back by the weekend, we've got plenty of other things to do. Finish the vacuum tubing, hook up the AC line and do a vacuum test, door hinges, steering column components, taking two of the wheels to Discount Tire and asking them to find out where/why they are slowly leaking and fix it. And that's just the stuff I rattled off to him off the top of my head that we can do before the car is rolling on it's own.
 
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