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🔧 Technical Turbo LS4 with 4T80-E build.

Trinten

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I repalced the blower motor for the HVAC, vacuuming out the air box and cleaning the cage while I was at it.

For the wiring harness prototype, we are using what we can out of the loom that I bought, but in a few spots Mike used the more traditional split loom, usually because I didn't have all the sizes of wire loom we needed.

engine_harness_wiring_loom_1.jpg


engine_harness_wiring_loom_2.jpg


I also bought some very high end thermal protection sleeving that goes on over the normal loom. It's meant to be a little baggy. Mike used the self-fusing tape I bought to close off the ends of it.

engine_harness_high_temp.jpg


Lastly, he did a quick test fit of the LS4 A/C hose to make sure it would clear everthing.

AC_hose_check.jpg



After he held it up and saw it would clear the fuel system and his brackets, and it cleared without any issues.

When researching axles, I found an interesting article today - https://www.rcnmag.com/tech/exotic-axles

For those that don't want to read it, basically a guy was building a kit car and wanted to find axles without getting custom ones made. He went to O'Reilly and they had a full catalog of A1 Cardone parts, laid out with columns like the oil filter lookup books are, and was able to find axles that were off the shelf and fit his kit car, despite the output flange and drive flange being from different cars.

This doesn't seem to exist online (outside of the typical make/model searches), so I sent Cardone an email asking them where I can download or buy such a catalog. They never replied back. I checked with Autozone, they don't have any such catalog. I haven't checked with other places yet, so in the short term, I'll have to stick with custom stuff, but it would be nice if I could find off the shelf units I could either use directly or disassemble for parts to make functional ones.


The Deutsch connector I got for the bulkhead doesn't have enough spots for the transmission along with the engine, so I've ordered another set of smaller connectors for that.

On this trip the priority was getting the axle mockups done for one of the custom axle companies I am working with. So we used the measurements I had taken for one of the other companies I was working with (who wanted flange-to-flange at neutral, droop and compression). We measured out that flange to flange measurement again and marked the axle shaft then made the cuts. Mike then took off the flanges.

We discovered some interesting things.

Stock C5 axles are 28 spline on the actual half-shaft, both sides. And uses a CV on both sides. Outter is held in with a circlip, inner is held in with a retaining ring inside the edge of the flange, and a snap ring on outside of the cv joint itself.

Aftermarket C5 axles from Techmotive are 33 splines, have a different half-shaft diameter, use a Tripod on the inner side, and a CV joint on the outer. The outer flange housing is also a different size, as the CV joint inside has a smaller racer with a great number of smaller diameter bearings.

So I wound up getting another set of C5 OEM used axles from ebay, and we disassembled those for parts.

After Mike welded up the mock up axles, we then took the drive train off the cradle and split the engine from the transmission. That week Mike put in time and finished the final welding done on the cradle, and dropped it off at the powder coater.


------------------ next visit

This weekend was small but important stuff.

We built the spark plug wires. They're all 10" long. The amount of wire that came with the kit will let us get at least an entire second set if necessary, I would just need to get the crimps.

Mike was happy with the quality of the fiberglass sheathing, the EFI wind wire, insulation, etc. The fiberglass boot protectors seem to be really good quality, too. Mike mounted up a spare 6.0 header (same as the one that we modified) to make sure the spark plug wire would clear everything, and not kink the boot protector.

We did test each wire after it was made. Mike pointed out that his voltmeter for his day job was different than what an electrical engineer would have, it only has one Ohm setting. He used a Fluke 79 Series II voltmeter.

My wires do have a higher resistance than Will's Magnecore set by quite a bit. So even though they don't have a 10mm wire, it might be something to keep in mind for the future.

1: 22.9
2: 23.1
3: 24.2
4: 23.0
5: 23.4
6: 23.2
7: 23
8: 23.1

firstplugwire.jpg


built_and_sleeved.jpg


all_wires_mounted.jpg


We also tested an non-crimped wire to get an idea of resistance per foot, it worked out to be 29.05 / foot.

We also adjusted the stainless steel tube that runs to the underside of the intake for vacuum. That required us removing the intake, which was an exercise in disassembly/assembly of everything in that area.

While the intake was off, we did a detailed check of all the cylinders using his bore scope while I rotated the crank. No issues, though there was a dead bee in one. It must have flown in there one of the times we had the intake off, and then couldn't escape.

Mike also connected the main feed wire and solenoid wire to the starter, and got that sleeved. I have more of the ultra-high time secondary layer of wire protection stuff on it's way (J&T Fire Flex).

This concludes the historical catch up! From tomorrow on, any posts will be current posts as I make them for here and the Fiero community forum. Thank you all for your interest!
 
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This past weekend Mike did a double check on the transmission. we learned from Brandon Furches that the 2-3 shift in the 4T80 is a long/slow shift, and not good for longevity when you're beating it up on the track. Thankfully there is an easy way to fix it!

I think I mentioned earlier that Dave at TripleEdge wasn't sure if he had done any magic with the 2-3 shift. The upside is he had. It's supposed to have one spring under that piston, it had a dual spring in there. Mike was also happy that it was very easy to get to that component, we didn't have to tear down the whole transmission.

The cradle and cradle components came back from powder coating, so we started mounting things back onto it. Transmission and fuel system.

powder_coated_cradle_components.jpg


trans_on_the_cradle.jpg


trans_on_the_cradle_and_fuel_system.jpg



And today the turbo housing and exhaust components came back from Jet hot, with the spiffy 2500 degree coating applied!

jet_hot_exhaust_2.jpg


jet_hot_exhaust_1.jpg


jet_hot_turbo_housing.jpg


Tomorrow the half shafts for the axles should be showing up. If Mike doesn't have the time/interest in putting the axles together during the week (I wouldn't blame him), then we'll do that this weekend, along with mounting the engine back on the cradle, start prepping the engine bay, and possible replacing the last few suspension components in the back.

Besides the engine bay mods and prep, we still have a fair amount of wiring to do. Then there's wheel alignment, tuning, shakedown...

There is a big Grand National thing in Kentucky this month. So the weekend of the 14th there won't be anything done. And the last weekend of the month is our mutual friends birthday party. So I know I'll be at the party on Saturday. Not sure if Mike will or not.

Mike is going to start putting Saturdays and Sundays into my car. He really wants to try to push to get it to a point where we can put miles on it and drive it up to Carlisle (end of June). I suspect we'll be trailering it up there again this year, but will hopefully be moving under it's own powering onto and off of the trailer. :)
 

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Productive day!

Dutchman axles is the company I worked with. Travis was the person there that handled my order. He was really responsive by email, and we had good communication.

The material they used for my axles is called Hy-Tuff alloy, which is stronger than 4340, but not as much as 300M.

And they had it in stock, versus another place that used the same material but said it was 8-10 weeks, at best.

Dutchman originally quoted 3-5 weeks after they spec-sheeted the axles. They beat that by leaps and bounds. They had them packed up and shipped out to me in LESS THAN A WEEK!

Here is one of the half shafts next to the mockup.

newhalfshafts.jpg


The only drawback is that Dutchman doesn't make complete cv joints, so Mike and I had to disassemble the Corvette axles, and assemble the joints/flanges on the new half shafts. It went smoothly.

assemblingaxles1.jpg


firstaxleconnected.jpg


bothaxlesconnected.jpg



And once the axles were ready, we went about putting the knuckles on and replacing suspension components. The outter tie rod ends on the 'stabilizer bars' were shot on both sides. I had one complete unit that was in good shape, and I have managed to find 4 of the actual outer ends (which are not the same as the ones in the front), so used one of those on the other side.

We also replaced a balljoint. It was made by ProForge, and it's greasable, which is nice. What wasn't nice is that it uses it's own nut, in a different thread pitch. So in the future if I have to take that apart, I have to make sure to keep all that stuff straight.

knucklemounted.jpg


knucklemounted2.jpg


Mike learned that some of the Corvette guys were running into issues with tearing out the inner tie rod end in the back when running big power and slicks. So he had made sure that mounting point was reinforced.

reinforcedinnertierodconnection.jpg




We put on the exhaust parts that came back from Jet Hot. (except the downpipe, that's not mounted yet).

exhaustmounted1.jpg


exhaustmounted2.jpg


exhaustmounted3.jpg



And here is just a generic shot of some of the bracing that supports the transmission and keeps it from wrenching itself around under power.

genericmountshot.jpg
 

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Thanks for letting me know the pics weren't turning up. I was worried that might start happening. The Fiero site I'm on allows free picture hosting for it's members. In the past it's been hit or miss about links working when loading from other sites. I've uploaded the pictures here with the 'replace' function the forum has, so hopefully they'll show up now.

Dutchman charged me 690 for the axles. It would have been a little cheaper (630, I think?) if they were cutting them both to the same length.
 

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The last few weeks have been something of a blur with work and personal life. There has been progress on the car, though some things aren't finished, and I'd rather try to wait till they are done and post about it all together (like cleaning up the bulkhead and getting on FieroGuru's cool hinges he put on my last Fiero).

So for today, we'll just touch up on some quick stuff.


The turbo and wastegate are mounted to the exhaust setup!

1653968993252.png


1653969006477.png


And I picked up some very well reviewed and rated (and probably a little gimicky) volcanic super-spiffy turbo blankets. And they had one for the wastegate. So I got it. Because why not?

1653969020132.png


When Mike was mounting the wastegate, he's now taking a closer look at it (versus before when they was just taking it out of the box for measurements/placing to fabricate) and he says to me "You bought a watercooled wastegate?"

To which I reply with a humorously indignant tone "No. You bought a watercooled wastegate. Remember the original TIAL one I bought was too big, so you bought this one."

He conceded the point and says it won't be an issue to plumb in using the "Steam vents", he had just never seen the point of watercooled wastegates and in most cases when normal wastegates have failed (outside of age/use) it was due to config/install issues. So I have a few more -4 AN fittings and hose coming so he can do that.

As mentioned I'll do a focused post on the engine bay prep later, but in related news, we discovered both of the trunks plastic rain-guiding "d-plates" are cracked up pretty badly. One side was exacerbated by Mike when he was getting out of the engine bay and put his hand there (on top of the weatherstrip), and we heard the crack.


1653969050331.png


So I'm trying to hunt down undamaged ones. And hopefully someone is making repops out of better materials.

Oh, for any eagle eyed viewers, yes the spark plugs are back out, hence the wires dangling there. Mike wanted to spin the engine while it was out of the car to get the oil to start moving through and make sure there were no leaks to address. Much easier to fix before we put it in.

This did lead to him having an 'ah-ha' moment, going back to Brandon Furches videos on putting the 4T80 with the LS4, and one part of the transmission that he ground out a fairly deep pocket. Mike had done a smaller pocket there, not realizing what it was for (either Brandon wasn't explicit, or just the lapse in time from between when they were originally married together, and we got the spiffy Moroso oil pan and starter. So the bendix can't engage with the flexplate, it smacks the transmission.

Mike isn't comfortable with having his cherry picker holding up everything (engine, trans, cradle, suspension), since it would be at it's furthest/weakest point on the picker and he'd be under it. So this will be addressed once the cradle is in the car and he can get to that area without my cradle-skid obstructing him.
 

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*Cue dramatic music!*

The engine is back in the car!

*fanfare!*

Not without a few hiccups, of course. The first is I need to order another set of cradle bolts. The ones we used work but we know they aren't (all) the right ones, because the size of the hex heads changed from side to side.

Also, somewhere along the way we lost the metal bushings that go inside the poly of the bushings in the front. mike had some others laying around that we used as temps, but they are not the right length (a little too short).

I can hopefully get another set from McMaster Carr or something. Worst case, I buy another set of poly bushings, and put the new poly on the shelf for now.

Mike still has a little welding to do on removable frame rails, where the upper control arms bolt on. For now we paint-bombed it just so it looks better than it did last year at Carlisle. We'll wire-wheel off the paint, finish the welding, and the powdercoating company will meda-blast it before the coating goes on.

Here it is, ready to go in!

1654468913559.png


1654468904037.png


We had to finish installing FieroGuru's hood hinge on the passenger side, and then we finished putting in the Thermo-Tec material on the bulkhead. I got a picture before we finished with the hinge and material, but we were in such a hurry to get the engine in today (Mike had other obligations), I didn't take a picture afterwards.

1654468894348.png


As Will called out, I had the wastegate blanket on wrong. when I got there I asked Mike for the "weird locking tool to clip wires while spinning them" and he says "what for?" and I say "So I can fix this turbo blanket." "I was wondering when you were going to figure that out." "I didn't, Will told me." he laughed. We fixed it.

1654468881138.png


Putting the body back down on the engine was very slow going, a lot to watch, as as the body moved down in an arc, we would need to stop and wiggle my skid around a bit to make sure things stayed aligned and didn't hit.

Thankfully, the only thing we had to do was unscrew the AN lines that run coolant to the wastegate. Mike has a solution, I need to reach out to Tial and see if they make a 90 degree fitting for that. The part that screws into the body of the wastegate appears to be proprietary.

We also knew the oil dipstick was going to be an issue. I need to look through FieroGuru's thread to see how he dealt with this. Where it is now, it is literally unusable. We knew this could happen.

1654468868730.png


1654468849962.png


Lastly, the mufflers are visible under the car from just a few feet back. We knew this would be a case, too. The back of the car is still up, the car is resting on the engine skid. The nice part with the v-band setup is that if I don't like these mufflers, popping them off, geting some new bands, new mufflers, Mike does some welding, and they are back on!

With the "y" pipe they are out a little further to the sides than we hoped, Mike said he can still do up some nice tips for them.

1654468838117.png


Unfortunately it won't be running for Carlisle, we still have hours of wiring to do, need to finish running hoses (and fabricating connections for them in places). Plus gas tank fabrication.

Eagle eyed people may notice the spark plugs aren't in right now. Mike wants to spin the engine by just the starter to cycle the oil through. Having the plugs out will make it less stress on the starter (effectively no compression). It will also let us get an idea of how tough it may be to change plugs in the future.

We aren't doing it out of the car because we need to modify a pocket so the starter bendix engages the flywheel, and the cradle skid is preventing that.
 

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Trying to get last minute things buttoned up before Carlisle this week. Putting in correct hardware, instead of placeholder stuff (there's still some placeholder stuff), connecting as many lines as possible, etc.

Mike was busy last week and yesterday, so today was just all that stuff. Which meant hunting through boxes for the specific things we needed. Mike cooked up a clamp on adapter for the Fiero coolant lines, so we didn't have to modify them (more). Brakes were put back on, and (most) of the clips and such for the brake hard lines were re-attached.

We ran power to the starter to spin the engine (no spark plugs were in it, so no compression) just to get oil to circulate. Cautious to not burn out the starter, we would do this for about 15 seconds or so at a time, then let it rest for a while, rinse and repeat. No compression also meant less stress on the starter. We heard the tone change as all the air pushed out of the system though the breather, and oil was just circling around.

The only 'leak' was that the oil filter (of all things!) was not securely screwed in place. 1.5 turns later, and that 'leak' was gone!

We then went about to put the spark plugs in... yeahhhh. About that. The rear set weren't an issue, I was able to get all four started and finger tight with just my hand.

The front set were not able to get started from underneath (my own fault, it's from the exhaust manifolds stock bolt-on heat shield). Also from the top wasn't possible because of the stock coil pack setup. So we removed that coil pack, which was fairly difficult. We also had to pop out the stock LS4 dipstick which was in the way (with the angles/room we had to work with). We knew the stock dipstick/tube was going to be an issue anyway, so it's no big issue that we worked it free for now.

If we stick with the stock coil packs, we'll secure it using just the bolts that were easy to get to. I had the idea of seeing if there's some sort of "quick disconnect" stud-based setup. So I'll have to do some searching on that later.

With the coil pack rack out of the way, we were able to get the spark plugs in from the top without much trouble. I talked to Mike about considering doing a remote coil setup like FieroGuru has done, he said he'd think about it. It would mean making or buying another set of spark plug wires, but really, a small expense in the grand scheme of things if we go that route.
 

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The car show went well. I won "Best Work In Progress" from the car club we were with (second year in a row!) though they did make the comment that if it wasn't running on it's own next year, they were going to make me a hideous whale-tale on the car and leave it there until the next show. :)

Our club was awarded two things from Carlisle, one was "Best Car Club" and "Coolest Car Club". We were tied with the Monte Carlo group for coolest, but what put us over the top is that some of our members rolled in with their enclosed trailers full of tools, and we did "tech sessions" to help fix things on members cars. Carlisle thought that was pretty impressive, as few of the car clubs that go there would do that for each other.

This Saturday will be a "clean up and organize the garage" day, as Mike and I just put tools and things in piles on the floor as we were thrashing to work on things.
 

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I know it's been a while since I've done a substantive update. What we've been working on hasn't really provided a lot of "photo opportunities", though I realized today I should probably document things for my own memory, if nothing else.

We're waiting for some things to come back from powder coating, and realized we missed a few things that should have gone out with that batch.
Included in that are the headlight buckets for the dual 60mm Hella setup, as well as the surge tank. I've already forgotten what else was in that batch... (see why I thought I should post?)

So when that gets back, there will be pics.

The surge tank had to go through a few revisions, because we needed to preserve room for the Spal fan that will be under the passenger side decklid vent, pushing hot air up (out) of the engine compartment. Mike finished mounting the oil catch can. When I have the other pics, I'll post up pictures of that.

Throttle linkage is done, we did have to use a barrel-style clamp to extend the cable, which Mike dislikes because it makes it 'obvious' that it doesn't belong. He's also not thrilled with the Lokar connector to the throttle body, it's made of plastic. So I might need to find someone who has or can make a metal version of it.

Shift cable is connected and working. It had to be installed backwards, which also meant Mike had to modify the shifter assembly to change-and-move the bracket that the cable secures into, so the adjustable portion could be used if needed. We also had to flip the transmission lever 180 degrees so it worked as intended (front wheel drive transmission in back of the car, things were shifting "the wrong direction", if that makes sense. Moving the shifter towards park, would shift the transmission away from park).

Right now Mike is busy getting sensors in place and finishing securing/clamping tubes and hoses. He also started his plan for the main positive power cable. He wanted to run it right along the rocker panel area, using angle aluminum to make a bracket and shield that would bolt on by replacing the rocker panel plastic rivets with nuts/bolts, and p-clamps to hold the cable in place. It didn't quite work out, so his next idea is to take the rocker panel off, and "hide" the cable in that cavity, and rework the bracket setup.

Once all of the hoses and tubing are finished up, we'll do leak tests (where possible without a running engine) and then he's going to be focused on wiring for the engine, transmission and controller.

My task this week is to look at the wiring diagrams from FAST for the transmission controller and make sure I have spools of all the right colors/stripes of wire. If I'm missing any, I'll be ordering more spools... lol
 

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Yay progress!

There's actually been quite a bit, though not a lot of it is photogenic, mostly Mike putting on wire terminals. I do have some pictures though!

The headlight buckets, surge tank, and last section of intake tube all powder coated.

surge_tank.jpg


intake_tube_powdercoated.jpg


headlight_buckets.jpg



We also mocked up then mounted the surge tank. The picture I took was during the mockup, for those eagle eyes that notice the clamp missing from the intake.

surge_tank_installed.jpg



I bought a power distribution block and a UL listed 100A waterproof breaker. They will be mounted in that little spot. The block is already mounted in place. The breaker will go next to it.

electrical_breaker.jpg



After some checking, we are currently planning on running the main power cable through the cabin.I think Mike is going to use the (currently capped) hole that the clutch went through, then over to behind the center console, and up from there with all the other wiring. I have no idea if having that giant power supply line is going to kick off any EM Noise, so I'm going to ask Mike to to put RF suppression wrap around it. I suspect there will be eye rolling. Maybe not.

I was under the car to put on the torque converter bolts (ARP of course), and just thought everything looked so awesome, I took a picture. There's only one thing I realized we didn't powder coat - the plate that the flex fuel sensor is mounted to. So I'll have to get that off and just hit it with some VHT paint or something.

undershot.jpg



Mike also needed some additional stock wiring stuff, which CowsPatoot was kind enough to send over.

He had me get some electrical bulkhead connectors, and more terminals for the heavy gauge positive and negative cable I bought, that's going to be there before this weekend.

So right now, it's lots, and lots, and lots of wiring. This weekend I'll probably mess around and (somewhat pointlessly as they are working okay) rebuild the headlight motors with the kits I bought from Rodney Dickman (he has a business making stuff for Fieros, Corvettes, other GM stuff). I got the kits that have the new bushings and the aluminum gears. Just gives me something to do while I'm hanging out. ... damn. I bought those kits a while ago. I need to find where I put them.

We still have to make the stainless fuel tank. Right now it looks like that'll be after all of the wiring is done.
 

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Wiring that has to be easy as hell.

There were a lot of non-terminated wires, because of the bulkhead connectors we need to make to run the harness up to the front of the car where the FAST modules are. Mike labeled it all before the engine went in (and some of it didn't need labeling because it was using wires/colors specific to FAST), unfortunately some of the labels have come off, so there's some chasing we need to do. At least as far as the voltmeter will reach. Otherwise we might wind up with some unterminated/disconnected wires, and as we power things up we can see what doesn't work right and fix it. lol

Absolutely love that pump setup.
Thanks! With the mid-engine setup, there is limited places to package everything, and I wanted to combine the fuel injector companies requirements for warranty (post pump filter) with the recommendations from the fuel pump manufacturer to help protect the pump (pre pump filter). So that 'sideways' setup was the best way to do it.
 
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Hey everyone,

As I mentioned last time, we're doing wiring! ... okay, Mike is doing wiring. I do other things.

Last weekend Mike installed the power distribution bulkhead pass-through. Instead of running the main power cable under the car as many Fiero owners do, we are running it through the car cabin.

He repurposed the bulkhead opening where the clutch master cylinder was located, and then made a spot for the second pass through in the rear where other wiring for the car moves through.

Frunk:

front_bulkhead_power.jpg



Rear of cabin:

rear_bulkhead_power.jpg



We put on the high abrasion protection sleeve I had bought, even though it isn't red. I tracked down some red boots with the proper diameter to use, and installed those at all points. I didn't take a picture of the frunk-side after I put the boot on. So here is a picture of the cable bolted in when we were doing test fitting.

front_bulkhead_power_cable_no_boot.jpg



And here it is in the engine compartment, the sleeve here is both abrasion resistant and has a very high temp protection.

rear_engine_side_power_pass_through_with_boot.jpg



Once everything was done with running the main power, we put the aux. fuse box pack into place.

front_aux_fuse_box_in_place.jpg



Mike then got out the partial ECU wire harness components he had made over the last few years, and it was long enough to where he could lay it over the car and connect all points. He said this will make it really easy to test pin-outs and do any troubleshooting.

I joked that we should just p-clamp it to the body like that when it was done and call it a day.

main_ecu_harness_over_car.jpg



The last thing I worked on was the C500 starter pin-out issue. I think I mentioned last time we found out (the hard way) that the C500 engine connectors had different pinouts, and the starter wire is in a different spot on the auto-transmission Fiero vs. the manual.

I did a post looking for the connector I needed, and another user on Pennock's Fiero Forum suggested I disassemble the body-side of the C500 and move the pin.

So I opened that thing up... and put it back together. It's understandably full of the non-conductive weather protection goop, and I believe the white strips are the edges of the wire locks he told me about, which were also caked up in dirt/grime/goop.

At this time, I'm going to keep hunting for the proper engine side of the connector. Repinning the C500 will be a last resort.

back_of_c500_connector_body_side.jpg


side_of_c500_connector_retaining_clip.jpg
 
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Thank you. "WG" = waste gate?
No idea. The first one Mike had me buy turned out to be too physically large to package up in a good place. So he bought that one, same manufacturer, and wanted to stay in the same price range.

So he found a physically smaller one for about 100 cheaper than I paid, and then saw they had one the same (smaller) size, but was around the same price as the Tial I originally bought... and he got it. lol.

If it is for marine use, is that going to be any kind of issue? We did hook up the water cooling for it.
 

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Sorry it's been a while guys. Between me being out of town, Mike having to work some weekends, and the fact that wiring is a slow and tedious process, progress has been slow!

To go back a little to a post I did in July when I talked about the shifter cable (and having to install it backwards), I did find I took pictures of it!

shift_linkage.jpg


shift_linkage_2.jpg


You can see in the first picture, Mike modified the back section of the Fiero shifter assembly with a part from the Caddilac shifter bracket that was originally by the transmission. This was to secure the cable properly and allow it to be adjusted. When installed "the right way", the non-flexible arm was too long.

The second picture is the new mount that Mike created for the transmission side. This is a two plate system that 'clamps' around the cables bracket engagement. we tested and adjusted the shifter through all the gears, and it's all working.

I was under the car at one point, and took a moment to admire the time and effort Mike put into bending all that tubing for the transmission cooler. There were a LOT of bends. Looks freakin' factory!

hard_line_jewelry_shot_1.jpg



So onto more recent things!

The first/current engine harness was used by modifying the original LS4 harness. This made troubleshooting things a little more difficult (ohming stuff out or what not), because the engine harness colors don't match the XFI colors, and while the Deutsch connectors are designed to cram as many connection points in there as possible with their spiral setup, it does make tracking pins/wires when flipping things around pretty damn tough.

Thankfully the issues we had were very few, and today, with 'key on', the XFI came to life (along with the EHPS pump) and saw input from all the (connected) sensors!


xfi_alive.jpg


xfi_alive_2.jpg


We were both very excited by that. There's still a few more sensors we need to get terminal kits for and finish pinning/wiring them, that will be next weekend, and then Mike hopes to "bump" the engine. Not run it for very long, just long enough to make sure the XFI is reading everything and it all looks correct.

After that will be finishing running the intercooler tubing, top off fluids, I think we still need to do the bracket for the oil dipstick to secure that in place, then rig up a fuel cell while we do idle tuning and check for leaks.

After all that, is fabrication of the fuel tank, fab up the hoses to go from it to the fuel pump, and wiring to make the gauge cluster work.

Also, I'm still trying to chase down a 86+ Fiero Engine harness from a car with a manual transmission. One vendor on here dug out his harnesses and sent me pictures, I identified the one I needed... but after asking him for a price, I haven't heard anything back in a few weeks, even after chasing.

Another vendor has been telling me they'll check, and then I wouldn't hear back until I chased them. Finally I indirectly asked them if they just didn't want my business, that got their attention and they asked me to call them tomorrow.

If all else fails, Mike will "cook down" the C500 connector we have and repin it, and we'll get more of that tar-goop to waterproof it.
 

Trinten

Regular
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Aug 7, 2018
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North Carolina
It lives!

We finished getting wiring from the FAST modules to the engine (and after some head scratching with decisions made by GM around the cam sensor, and clarifying information from a friend who is very familiar with the LS4), we sprayed some fuel into the intake and did a very short run to make sure everything was working correctly. I did record it, but it was only a few seconds long, so I figure I'll wait until we have a constant fuel supply running to it and post up a longer then.

Mike won't around this weekend on account of Thanksgiving, so the next time I'll be out there will be December 3rd. The plan then is to run a hose into a gas container and start doing some basic tuning, and if time allows, have another can with some E85 so we can confirm the flex fuel sensor is working as intended.

Now I did (finally) find an 87-88 engine Fiero Harness from a manual car on eBay, from a guy that I've bought from before out in Nevada (no, not Archie, this guy is also named Mike, strangely enough). This was after striking out with a few other people in the Fiero community, one who was so busy I had to chase him constantly, and then he's like "text me instead of email, so I can text you back right after I check my warehouse in a few days." A week later, I text him, and he texts back with "I looked, don't have one, sorry, good luck." bullshit he looked. He was right there to look, but couldn't take 60 seconds to say "sorry" in a text then?? I'm writing that vendor off my list.

Either way, I got one! So we hooked it up, and the ignition key didn't fire the starter. This was a head-scratcher for us, because we had toned this out before when discovering we had the wrong C500 to start with. So instead of putting more time into that, we just used a jumper wire to manually trigger the starter from the engine compartment.

Only other hiccup is with the FAST software. Mike has it installed on a few laptops. The software auto-updates (I need to fix that in the hostnames file), so now, one one of his laptops, the newest software won't talk to my setup anymore. It probably requires sending my FAST units in to be flashed if it's not something I can do myself. I'm not planning on messing with that. I have the same version of the software installed on one of my laptops that Mike has on the laptop that is still working for him, so I'll just need to make sure to 127.0.0.0 the FAST software on it.

Also it's strange they don't have a direct USB cable yet, it still uses a serial cable, and then we use a serial-to-usb adapter. FAST sells a serial to usb adapter... for like 50 bucks. The 9 dollar one I have works just fine. lol

Anyhow, the point is, the engine lives! Woot!
 

Turbocharged400sbc

3800 & 4T80E > ALL
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Jun 16, 2007
32,645
16,113
hangover park IL
Remember serial data is what computers of this generation used....

Be aware than on a lot of tuning setups there are major issues with serial to USB converters it's one of the reasons why the more expensive keyspan USB to serial converter is desired as it never has glitches or hiccups like several of the cheaper units I've used over the years.

You may be actually fighting that now with the newer software update might not be liking your Cheapo converter.

Spending over $30 on 3 cheapo USB adapters only to also have to buy the $55 keyspan is not saving money in the long run....

And that's not counting the two of those adapters caused me to Brick PCMS so there's the cost of that on top of it.

.....saving money....never really saves you money.

So before you go tearing off trying to figure out what in the software update screwed ya....you might want to check with a good quality key-span unit if you can borrow one.
 

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