🔧 BUILD TURBO LS powered 2011 Police Interceptor dontBSme baby!
- Thread starter nsogiba
- Start date
so this is the one i am considering pulling the trigger on. however, it was said that plug access is total shit?I bought it used off a guy semi-local. It's an offshore cast log, it was cut and the T4 flange lowered but works well for my application. Pic stolen from ebay, just search "LS turbo log"
and tons of casting seams inside the primarys? not that its a huge deal, ive got a die grinder...
If your going to drive it in the winter I’d use the flex fuel stuff, winter blend can be 50/50 anything over 70% dosent make a huge difference but 50% will, I got some that was like 40% a couple years agoGot the swap done, turbo kit is ready to be installed, just wondering about fueling as we go forward. I currently have the car roughly tuned on 93 pump gas, but when the turbo is installed I'm wondering if it's worth it to just go to straight E85 for the safety factor. Flex Fuel doesn't seem to be an option since I only have the 2 bar / 3 bar option available for my PCM. Still need to check the hardware #/OS, it's the factory PCM out of a 2004 Express van.
I'm wondering if I should just fill it up with E85 and tune the VE now, so that when I'm done installing the turbo kit I can just work on the boost fueling (PE/BE) and enjoy it. I've never messed with E85 so I'm not familiar with the general ignition and AFR targets. What's a good starting point for 10-14 lbs on E85 for AFR scale on an AEM UEGO, and what can timing start at? I'd just go and read plugs from there to see how it's liking it. This is purely a street car so I'm not looking to wring every ounce out of it, just want a safe fun setup that I can hammer on all the time.
Here's what my '04 Express P59 shows currently - already did the OS swap to a 3 bar.
Looks like Flex Fuel is already present in the tune, just need to enable it and tune VE/timing?
Do I just say fuck it and tune it using the normal VE table and straight E85 all the time? Will the variation in alcohol content with different blends and times of the year cause enough of a difference to affect the tune (cruise/WOT)?
I use those OEM metal heat shields on all my plugs and they were rubbing the casting in most spots. I bolted the log up to an old shitty 317 head I had laying around and just kept at it with a die grinder/burr until there was ample room around it. Probably a couple hours total invested.
Last night's progress:
Mockup...
Spring testing, going to run a spring that cracks at 4-5psi and is fully open by 7-8
Also got the wastegate recirc pipe welded up to dump into the downpipe. Waiting on some more hose for the oil drain and then I can finally mount the turbo permanently and start to button things up.
I am not looking forward to mounting the intercooler and running the cold side, not having a band saw or a TIG really sucks
Mockup...
Spring testing, going to run a spring that cracks at 4-5psi and is fully open by 7-8
Also got the wastegate recirc pipe welded up to dump into the downpipe. Waiting on some more hose for the oil drain and then I can finally mount the turbo permanently and start to button things up.
I am not looking forward to mounting the intercooler and running the cold side, not having a band saw or a TIG really sucks
Smashed out a bunch of progress over the weekend and got it running. Ran out of mandrel bends to run the downpipe out the bottom so upwards we go. Temporary setup just to say I did it and cross it off the bucket list.
Weather is getting better so I took the cover off the M3 and went for a spin
Winter sunsets over Lake Erie are the best, I love living in Buffalo.
Anyhow...still need to install the intercooler and cold side, and I'm still fighting a really annoying oil leak from around the oil filter. Probably the high pressure blockoff plate, or maybe the oil pan gasket?
Weather is getting better so I took the cover off the M3 and went for a spin
Winter sunsets over Lake Erie are the best, I love living in Buffalo.
Anyhow...still need to install the intercooler and cold side, and I'm still fighting a really annoying oil leak from around the oil filter. Probably the high pressure blockoff plate, or maybe the oil pan gasket?
Finally got the majority of stuff buttoned up and started driving this thing under boost.
Got the bumper off and intercooler mounted. Just some sheet metal bent into right angles bolted to the support beam. I had to cut out the brackets for the old push bar, but might add that back one day as I think it's funny as hell.
They aren't kidding when they say these cars are easy to repair and work on. Half a dozen bolts and the bumper slid right off. I'm used to the German stuff where there are 50 clips, bolts, brackets and one time use fasteners that always break.
The majority of the intercooler was hidden directly behind the crash bar and the bumper cover. Cut out a big portion of the crash bar sheet metal and brought out the trusty ole 3" hole saw...
Quick license plate relocate and we're back in business
Plenty of airflow now. I am seeing IATs of no greater than 75F driving around beating on it.
Since I don't own a TIG welder (yet), I'm limited to cutting down aluminum intercooler piping and rolling beads to fit my setup.
Not a bad result for the world's ugliest tool which happens to work great.
Building up a MIG bead and reshaping the male/female ends with a die grinder worked great.
Ugly arrangement of couplers coming off the TB, but hasn't leaked up to 10 psi. I got the wrong coupler from On3 and needed to improvise.
Initially I installed the weakest spring, which netted me about 5psi. Fun but not really overwhelming, so I added another spring which got me up to 10psi. I don't really trust the color rating scheme so I just install what I think works and then hook up a high resolution regulator to cycle the wastegate manually with the engine off and see where it cracks and opens. Finally, I added a ball/spring type MBC and will work on turning up the boost this weekend. The goal is the typical 14psi/14 degrees on 93 and just have fun for a while.
Next up: making it livable. The hater pipe will be replaced with a real downpipe that connects to the stock exhaust, with a 3" boost activated cutout under the passenger's feet.
I also need to figure out the Marauder cluster a little more.
-The fuel gauge works perfectly
-The tach WAS working with a pull up circuit, and then stopped. Possibly bad connection on my part
-Coolant temp works once I wired it to a '98 Camaro 3 wire ECT sensor, but is offset to read just above cold when the engine is warmed up. I need to pull off the needle and reclock it slightly.
-Speedo reads 30mph when I'm not moving, reads 100+ at 70mph. I can fix that part of it in the tune using the VSS pulses, but it is also jumpy and sometimes sticks in certain areas.
Got the bumper off and intercooler mounted. Just some sheet metal bent into right angles bolted to the support beam. I had to cut out the brackets for the old push bar, but might add that back one day as I think it's funny as hell.
They aren't kidding when they say these cars are easy to repair and work on. Half a dozen bolts and the bumper slid right off. I'm used to the German stuff where there are 50 clips, bolts, brackets and one time use fasteners that always break.
The majority of the intercooler was hidden directly behind the crash bar and the bumper cover. Cut out a big portion of the crash bar sheet metal and brought out the trusty ole 3" hole saw...
Quick license plate relocate and we're back in business
Plenty of airflow now. I am seeing IATs of no greater than 75F driving around beating on it.
Since I don't own a TIG welder (yet), I'm limited to cutting down aluminum intercooler piping and rolling beads to fit my setup.
Not a bad result for the world's ugliest tool which happens to work great.
Building up a MIG bead and reshaping the male/female ends with a die grinder worked great.
Ugly arrangement of couplers coming off the TB, but hasn't leaked up to 10 psi. I got the wrong coupler from On3 and needed to improvise.
Initially I installed the weakest spring, which netted me about 5psi. Fun but not really overwhelming, so I added another spring which got me up to 10psi. I don't really trust the color rating scheme so I just install what I think works and then hook up a high resolution regulator to cycle the wastegate manually with the engine off and see where it cracks and opens. Finally, I added a ball/spring type MBC and will work on turning up the boost this weekend. The goal is the typical 14psi/14 degrees on 93 and just have fun for a while.
Next up: making it livable. The hater pipe will be replaced with a real downpipe that connects to the stock exhaust, with a 3" boost activated cutout under the passenger's feet.
I also need to figure out the Marauder cluster a little more.
-The fuel gauge works perfectly
-The tach WAS working with a pull up circuit, and then stopped. Possibly bad connection on my part
-Coolant temp works once I wired it to a '98 Camaro 3 wire ECT sensor, but is offset to read just above cold when the engine is warmed up. I need to pull off the needle and reclock it slightly.
-Speedo reads 30mph when I'm not moving, reads 100+ at 70mph. I can fix that part of it in the tune using the VSS pulses, but it is also jumpy and sometimes sticks in certain areas.
Spent some late nights after the baby went to bed and finished up an actual exhaust the connects to the stocker. Nice and quiet now, although I have a few small exhaust leaks I need to chase down. The good news is that it's so much nicer to drive now, and does a pretty good job wasting tires on only 8-9 lbs. I am still on 93 pump with about 14-15 degrees timing at this level. The response is pretty good and once the loudvalve opens it's a party.
It needs a good wash and maybe even a polish to get rid of some of the water spots it had from sitting for a couple years.
Wheel-well self-rustproofing application
The bad news is that it doesn't want to make more than 9ish lbs. I started to slowly turn up the boost controller but ran out of daylight and didn't want to play with it at night in case something blew up. It may just need some more turns on the controller or I may have a boost leak somewhere. Thinking that's not the case since it held up to 14psi a few weeks ago, but we'll see. I am also thinking I'm going to get bored of pump gas power levels, so I'm already thinking about adding flex.
It needs a good wash and maybe even a polish to get rid of some of the water spots it had from sitting for a couple years.
Wheel-well self-rustproofing application
The bad news is that it doesn't want to make more than 9ish lbs. I started to slowly turn up the boost controller but ran out of daylight and didn't want to play with it at night in case something blew up. It may just need some more turns on the controller or I may have a boost leak somewhere. Thinking that's not the case since it held up to 14psi a few weeks ago, but we'll see. I am also thinking I'm going to get bored of pump gas power levels, so I'm already thinking about adding flex.
Testing out the setup on 9 lbs, waiting for the rain to dry up to turn it up to 12-14 and do some more tuning. I also need to finish up the cluster as it's annoying driving around with no speedo or tach. After that, it should be ready for state inspection...
It's time to start thinking about adding flex capability to my setup since I'm itching for some more power with my dontbsme clone. I'm wondering what will need to be upgraded in my fuel system to support the ethanol...
Gen 3 6.0, all stock other than SS2 cam and springs
Cast VSR 7875, currently running 93 pump and about 13psi/13 degrees
Fuel setup consists of:
-single in-tank Walbro 450
-6AN braided lines (feed/return)
-C5 filter/reg.
-Deka 80# injectors, stock truck fuel rail
I would like to add flex capability...what's required to support this? I'm guessing more injector and another in-tank pump, possibly bigger lines. Not going to run much more boost than what I already am, to keep the bottom end alive. The goal is 600-700 whp, just a fun street car. Thoughts?
Gen 3 6.0, all stock other than SS2 cam and springs
Cast VSR 7875, currently running 93 pump and about 13psi/13 degrees
Fuel setup consists of:
-single in-tank Walbro 450
-6AN braided lines (feed/return)
-C5 filter/reg.
-Deka 80# injectors, stock truck fuel rail
I would like to add flex capability...what's required to support this? I'm guessing more injector and another in-tank pump, possibly bigger lines. Not going to run much more boost than what I already am, to keep the bottom end alive. The goal is 600-700 whp, just a fun street car. Thoughts?
Thanks. I've had good luck with Dekas, is there an intermediate jump up from the 80s, or are the 210s the next step?
Can I just tee the fuel pump outputs in the tank? The stock hat just has the 1 typical 3/8 quick disconnect nipple for the feed.
Dedicated power source for the 2nd pump so I don't burn up the wiring? OK to run both pumps full time? I don't run the tank below half...
Can I just tee the fuel pump outputs in the tank? The stock hat just has the 1 typical 3/8 quick disconnect nipple for the feed.
Dedicated power source for the 2nd pump so I don't burn up the wiring? OK to run both pumps full time? I don't run the tank below half...
I believe you should be able to fit two 450's with the stock hat and T them together.
I have fast 85's and was able to make 691 wheel hp before I ran out of injector. I don't know much about Dekas sorry
I'd get a hobbs switch so you aren't running both pumps at the same time.
It annoys me to no end that you Americans get dirt cheap ls motors and can get away with dumps out the bonnet
Long time since an update but a lot has happened.
I sold my 2009 E90 335xi 6MT; really enjoyed that car but it was too small for the upcoming addition to our family.
The next logical step was an F15 X5 35i in Sophisto Grey. This is seriously my favorite car in years. It just does it all.
I knew it would probably be fine on the all seasons in the winter but decided to make it my own by bolting on the old 7 series wheels from the E90 to use as a winter set.
Patiently waiting on new tires to come....there they are.
Loaded up in the work truck to go get mounted:
Had a good friend modify some spacers for me and off we go to the local wilderness spot.
With reliable winter transportation sorted out I could turn back to the fun cars. On the turbo Crown Vic shitbox I never was happy with how the exhaust turned it. It was a 3" downpipe mated up to the stock Ford 2" dual system which had all sorts of leak flanges and holes in the muffler. Rattled and leaked and just generally sounded awful out of boost. In boost it didn't matter because the cutout would be wide open, obliterating eardrums of those around me.
I cut off and ditched the stock Ford exhaust, and welded up a quickie with a leftover 3" resonator and a generic Amazon chambered muffler. It sounded decent dumping out in front of the RR wheel.
Took the kid to one last car show for the year. She didn't seem to mind the vibrations/noise.
While doing the exhaust, I realized that my annoying engine oil leak was coming from the oil pan, and that my welded bellhousing had given up and cracked again. At this point it made sense to just pull the drivetrain out of the car over the winter to make the necessary repairs...
I sold my 2009 E90 335xi 6MT; really enjoyed that car but it was too small for the upcoming addition to our family.
The next logical step was an F15 X5 35i in Sophisto Grey. This is seriously my favorite car in years. It just does it all.
I knew it would probably be fine on the all seasons in the winter but decided to make it my own by bolting on the old 7 series wheels from the E90 to use as a winter set.
Patiently waiting on new tires to come....there they are.
Loaded up in the work truck to go get mounted:
Had a good friend modify some spacers for me and off we go to the local wilderness spot.
With reliable winter transportation sorted out I could turn back to the fun cars. On the turbo Crown Vic shitbox I never was happy with how the exhaust turned it. It was a 3" downpipe mated up to the stock Ford 2" dual system which had all sorts of leak flanges and holes in the muffler. Rattled and leaked and just generally sounded awful out of boost. In boost it didn't matter because the cutout would be wide open, obliterating eardrums of those around me.
I cut off and ditched the stock Ford exhaust, and welded up a quickie with a leftover 3" resonator and a generic Amazon chambered muffler. It sounded decent dumping out in front of the RR wheel.
Took the kid to one last car show for the year. She didn't seem to mind the vibrations/noise.
While doing the exhaust, I realized that my annoying engine oil leak was coming from the oil pan, and that my welded bellhousing had given up and cracked again. At this point it made sense to just pull the drivetrain out of the car over the winter to make the necessary repairs...
The more I worked on the car the more I realized how uncomfortable I would be putting a freshened up motor and trans in a car that was starting to rust out. The body was ok on the exterior but the passenger compartment floor and trunk floors were really getting bad, along with some spots on the frame. I probably could have spent a ton of time grinding rust off and playing the POR15 game but didn't think that would really net me a big return on my time invested.
So, I pulled the body off the frame, sold the 8.8 and IFS, and am parting out the rest.
Enter the Jaaaaaaaaag.
It's a 1984 Jaguar XJ6 that was owned by the PO for almost 2 decades, and doesn't have any rust at all. He babied it as a weekend cruiser and had a bunch of pricey service done including refreshing the rear brakes/bearings (weirdo inboard IRS setup), new tires, and a new paint job. Conveniently, the stock 4.2 I6 cranks but won't run due to the overly complicated fuel system and questionable compression numbers and leaks fluids profusely from the engine and trans. Yes....excellent....
Loaded up the ole family truckster and went to snatch it. Towed excellent once I unbolted the driveshaft from the rear diff and rat shit strapped it up out of the way.
Since this is all a one man show I needed a way to pull it up on the dolly. Welded a HF worm gear winch to one of their 2" receivers...
I will have to upload some more pics of the Jag but overall it's a ton of car for what I paid. The plan is to:
-Fix the oil pan leak on the 6.0 and figure out how to convert the FEAD to be a little lower as I refuse to cut the hood on this car (truck intake won't fit).
-Teach myself to rebuild 4L80E's and put the good guts from the broken case into the good case I have that had broken guts in it
-Most likely ditch the stock 04 van PCM and standalone harness. I have never enjoyed using HPTuners since I first picked it up 5 years ago and am ready to make the jump to the ease of the TerminatorX
-Build a fuel system with enough headroom for E85. It's going to be a fuel cell since the Jag has a crazy twin (but separate) tank system. Still trying to learn about the pros and cons of in tank vs external pumps, filters, etc etc.
-Regear the diff, I believe it has 2.88s in it now but is based on the Dana 44 so gear swaps are not impossible.
-Burnouts?
So, I pulled the body off the frame, sold the 8.8 and IFS, and am parting out the rest.
Enter the Jaaaaaaaaag.
It's a 1984 Jaguar XJ6 that was owned by the PO for almost 2 decades, and doesn't have any rust at all. He babied it as a weekend cruiser and had a bunch of pricey service done including refreshing the rear brakes/bearings (weirdo inboard IRS setup), new tires, and a new paint job. Conveniently, the stock 4.2 I6 cranks but won't run due to the overly complicated fuel system and questionable compression numbers and leaks fluids profusely from the engine and trans. Yes....excellent....
Loaded up the ole family truckster and went to snatch it. Towed excellent once I unbolted the driveshaft from the rear diff and rat shit strapped it up out of the way.
Since this is all a one man show I needed a way to pull it up on the dolly. Welded a HF worm gear winch to one of their 2" receivers...
I will have to upload some more pics of the Jag but overall it's a ton of car for what I paid. The plan is to:
-Fix the oil pan leak on the 6.0 and figure out how to convert the FEAD to be a little lower as I refuse to cut the hood on this car (truck intake won't fit).
-Teach myself to rebuild 4L80E's and put the good guts from the broken case into the good case I have that had broken guts in it
-Most likely ditch the stock 04 van PCM and standalone harness. I have never enjoyed using HPTuners since I first picked it up 5 years ago and am ready to make the jump to the ease of the TerminatorX
-Build a fuel system with enough headroom for E85. It's going to be a fuel cell since the Jag has a crazy twin (but separate) tank system. Still trying to learn about the pros and cons of in tank vs external pumps, filters, etc etc.
-Regear the diff, I believe it has 2.88s in it now but is based on the Dana 44 so gear swaps are not impossible.
-Burnouts?
Please tell me you’ve seen the Roadkill/Roadkill Garage/Faster with Finnegan shows and their jaguar (draguar)?The more I worked on the car the more I realized how uncomfortable I would be putting a freshened up motor and trans in a car that was starting to rust out. The body was ok on the exterior but the passenger compartment floor and trunk floors were really getting bad, along with some spots on the frame. I probably could have spent a ton of time grinding rust off and playing the POR15 game but didn't think that would really net me a big return on my time invested.
So, I pulled the body off the frame, sold the 8.8 and IFS, and am parting out the rest.
Enter the Jaaaaaaaaag.
It's a 1984 Jaguar XJ6 that was owned by the PO for almost 2 decades, and doesn't have any rust at all. He babied it as a weekend cruiser and had a bunch of pricey service done including refreshing the rear brakes/bearings (weirdo inboard IRS setup), new tires, and a new paint job. Conveniently, the stock 4.2 I6 cranks but won't run due to the overly complicated fuel system and questionable compression numbers and leaks fluids profusely from the engine and trans. Yes....excellent....
Loaded up the ole family truckster and went to snatch it. Towed excellent once I unbolted the driveshaft from the rear diff and rat shit strapped it up out of the way.
Since this is all a one man show I needed a way to pull it up on the dolly. Welded a HF worm gear winch to one of their 2" receivers...
I will have to upload some more pics of the Jag but overall it's a ton of car for what I paid. The plan is to:
-Fix the oil pan leak on the 6.0 and figure out how to convert the FEAD to be a little lower as I refuse to cut the hood on this car (truck intake won't fit).
-Teach myself to rebuild 4L80E's and put the good guts from the broken case into the good case I have that had broken guts in it
-Most likely ditch the stock 04 van PCM and standalone harness. I have never enjoyed using HPTuners since I first picked it up 5 years ago and am ready to make the jump to the ease of the TerminatorX
-Build a fuel system with enough headroom for E85. It's going to be a fuel cell since the Jag has a crazy twin (but separate) tank system. Still trying to learn about the pros and cons of in tank vs external pumps, filters, etc etc.
-Regear the diff, I believe it has 2.88s in it now but is based on the Dana 44 so gear swaps are not impossible.
-Burnouts?
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