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Turbo experts: need some input.
- Thread starter Zack
- Start date
Got the engine and trans back in. Started on the piping 'plan' and im panic stricken.
This shit aint easy!
I want to merge the 2 sides into one 3.5" pipe but its REALLY tight. So tight it will hit when the header wrap is on. I THINK I can notch the crossmember, shim the motor mount and grind the motor mount and have adequate clearance.
Am I going overkill with the 3.5"? Can I get away with 3" Whatcha think?
This shit aint easy!
I want to merge the 2 sides into one 3.5" pipe but its REALLY tight. So tight it will hit when the header wrap is on. I THINK I can notch the crossmember, shim the motor mount and grind the motor mount and have adequate clearance.
Am I going overkill with the 3.5"? Can I get away with 3" Whatcha think?
What size is the inlet of the turbo? Even if you calculate the opening in terms of surface area. Look at that versus the .3.5" tube opening. Try to keep it as close as you can. Even if you have to use 3" remember that the smaller size should promote better spooling. And the turbine wheel is the smallest neck down in the hot side. So no matter what that is your limiting factor anyways.
Yeah but your 2.5" pipes probably meet at the turbo flange right?
I have to cross the drivers side over to the passenger side under the trans.
Im just gonna use a 3" pipe where they meet and run that to the flange.
if your shit moves a lot.
if it doesnt i wouldn't... just a place for shit to leak. i have one where my catback connects to my turbo downpipe basically because emy motor will move and if it didn't something else could break somewhere... if you can get away with everything being solid- thats what i would do- if I ran an open downpipe I think I could get away with out a flex.
but since i have a cutout, and can run the exhaust through my stock catback- i do have a flex
if it doesnt i wouldn't... just a place for shit to leak. i have one where my catback connects to my turbo downpipe basically because emy motor will move and if it didn't something else could break somewhere... if you can get away with everything being solid- thats what i would do- if I ran an open downpipe I think I could get away with out a flex.
but since i have a cutout, and can run the exhaust through my stock catback- i do have a flex
I've been running a Comp turbo and working with them since 08. If you have any question pm me.
From your header flange on each side to the merge you only need 2.5" tubing. 3" is overkill for your application and will slow spooling times. Once the 2.5" meet and go to the turbine housing then you want to have them combine into the same size as the turbine inlet. Which is usually rectangle. So some blending and smooth transitions are needed.
The down pipe rule of thumb is 1.25 times larger then the exit diameter. So if it is 3" you would shoot for 3.75". So if you can't fit 4" them go 3.5". 3" would not be the end of the world. But just not as efficient. If you can even run 12" of strait 3.5 then reduce it down to 3" that would help. The more efficient you can make the system the better it will perform. But in a crowded street car you have to compromise with the space you have to work with.
Not all piping is the same. If you can get bare steel. The coating has to be cleaned off to weld. So adds to the prep time. And there are differences in steel as well. So price is not always the best way to shop for materials.
And Wolfe Aircraft sells tight radius bends that are helpful in tight places. You can tell the bend shape by the CRL, Center Line Radius. These pipes can be expensive though.
You can also get donuts that you cut to make the bed radius you need. These are usually the same CRL as the pipe diameter. You can't make a bend any tighter. These come in real handy and are cheaper than several tight radius single bend pipes. Pro Werks makes nice quality ones that are priced nice and available at a lot of places.
You should spend some time researching this stuff before you buy. You can actually save yourself a lot of money in the long run. TheTurboForums.com are great for researching this stuff.
Flex joints are a good idea unless the engine, trans, turbo and such are all solidly mounted. Metal expands and contracts when heat cycled. So things will move already. Add a engine moving independently of the turbo and you can have huge issues.
DO NOT buy the cheap weave flex joints. Spend the money on good bellows.
These suck. They can un-weave and clog the system. If not fall apart and go into the turbo.
The flex joint looked fine on the outside. But they were having issues. Looked into it and found this.
These are what you want. More money up front. But will save you time, money and aggravation in the long run.
A great supplier with quality parts, good prices and outstanding customer service is Race Part Solutions. They offer a TurboForums discount as well.
That should be fine. Like I said, the turbine wheel and housing are the biggest restriction in the hotside. By design of course. As long as the 3" isn't way smaller than the inlet you should be fine. You need the energy (heat) to get to the turbine side as efficiently as possible. A big neck down then expansion into the turbine side would hurt that. But if it is all you can do with the space then you are kind of stuck. It will work but will not be as efficient. You have a lot of pressure pre turbo. Where you are able to pick up is usually on the post turbo side as well as the turbine housing and wheel. So don't sweat the hot side too much. Again, you are limited and will have to make compromises.
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is supporting the turbo itself.
Lots of folks who have turbocharged their mopar BB's have had problems with log manifolds and crossover pipes cracking under the weight of the turbo.
You might want to figure out a way to support that weight rather than letting it hang off of the exhaust flanges.
Lots of folks who have turbocharged their mopar BB's have had problems with log manifolds and crossover pipes cracking under the weight of the turbo.
You might want to figure out a way to support that weight rather than letting it hang off of the exhaust flanges.
I run a flex joint on my crossover pipe between the headers. Mike is correct, make sure you get the type that has no mesh inside. My kit originally had the mesh and it ballooned like the picture after a few seasons. I cut it out and put a good one in when I did my new setup. Could have probably just welded piping in since I run solid motor mounts and all. But with the expanding and contracting of the hotside I did not want to chance cracking a weld.
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