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Trilogy #251??????

musclemerc

Addict
Jan 6, 2010
554
0
It sounds like you modified the Whipple for a DS inlet. Thats one of a kind if I'm reading it right. Bad ass!!!

On the Trilogy you sold, I didn't have any reserves about it at all. Like I said earlier, its in like new condition. BTW: your right this generation MM owner are cheap bastids
 

Bodyman

Regular
Nov 21, 2010
203
0
Warrenton,MO
DRAMA HOLY fACK..............
It took forever to sell because it was way overpriced for what you were getting.
$1600 for a drivers side inlet M112 was insane.
Over priced my ass!!!!
Like I told travis if it didn't sell I would be using it for a door stop!!
this was a great deal....Thanks Travis you were the only smart one out of hundreds that couldn't see what it was......... maybe most MM owner are just TIGHT ASSES!!!!
Sure I guess you could go the eaton swap route, but this was for someone that wanted to keep the D/S inlet and wanting a TRILOGY unit, not for every one I guess.

My MM has a whipple gear case(gen 1), jerry barnes had the last T/S upgrade items that required but the gear case which I went with Whipple as the Lysholm units are identical.
jerry supplied the mid plate, snout, adaptor plate for rear inlet, new rear inlet for external by-pass and by-pass valve.


I knew you were hear! Figured you would clarify it for us.
 

musclemerc

Addict
Jan 6, 2010
554
0
This is gonna sound CraZy, but I plan on doing this build and keep my MM active as a DD. I had a chance to get started fabricating some of the small stuff. Here's how I made my I/C reservoir bracket

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These were easy to make, I used a piece of angled 1-1/2" aluminum stock and hit them with 2 coats primer, 3 coats semi gloss paint, then 2 coats of matte finish clear coat. I began by making a cardboard cut out of the fender contour, then transfer it to the aluminum stock
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To install the bracket you have to remove the mount for the shock that supports the hood with a 1/2" deep socket.

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Ya'll excuse the dust on my engine compartment, it will get a thourough cleaning after I'm done with the install. You will need to put a flat screwdriver through the slot to remove the shock

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Give it a pull and it comes right out

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Slide the bracket into place then reinstall the shock for the hood

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I made the mount so it has 3 points to bolt to the fender, this will keep the reservoir from vibrating while driving heres a pic with the reservoir inplace
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The short bracket I made goes under the reservoir to give it strength, soo it's a sandwich design. I didn't feel comfortable bolting directly to the bottom of the plastic unit.

Here is a side shot of the install

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I had a little extra time so I fabbed up some PCV lines out of 5/8" aluminum tubing, the ends are flared and my plan is to paint them black to blend into the engine compartment
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Now I have plenty of clearance for the top hose to connect to the reservoir

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Next in line is to get the heat exchanger installed and plum the pump
 

NATEHAWKMM

Member
Mar 12, 2012
14
0
At the time when I got my badge less done I didn't know if Zack was still making them. I thought he closed up shop on this mod. Here is a pic of mine that was done. Zack I don't want to hear your shit about my lights. They are bad ass lol.
 

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musclemerc

Addict
Jan 6, 2010
554
0

musclemerc

Addict
Jan 6, 2010
554
0
Before attempting to install the heat exchanger I had to make a horn relocate bracket. I used a piece of 1-1/4" aluminum flat stock (be sure to heat the aluminum with a torch before bending it). I decided to reuse the stock horn mount, all I had to do is flip the horns on the bracket to reverse the orientation
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Make sure the new bracket does not contact the evaporator core
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Now is also a good time to relocate the Ambient Temp sensor. Heres a shot of the tools needed. I always solder the connectors, crimp connectors have a high fail rate

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Cut the wires to the sensor diffrent lengths so there is no chance of having a short
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A pair of helping hands is a good tool to have
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After the solder cools hit them with shrink tape and a heat gun. Last wrap them in wire loom and secure the harness to the car with tywraps

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Now all thats done I can get the heat exchanger fabbed up. I used some 1-1/2" angled aluminum stock and some leftover 5/8" SS pipe. I want to use materials that even if the paint chips rust wont be an issue down the road.

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For the bottom mounts I had to break out the Dewalt close quater drill. This came in very handy for getting holes drilled in tight spots

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Here is a shot of the stud inplace
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Intercooler pump install is next.
 

musclemerc

Addict
Jan 6, 2010
554
0
The ambient temp sensor was relocated down below where the air diverter is located. Here is a shot of the new mount for the sensor. I used a nut from a brass 3/8" NPT connector
IMG_0781.jpg


It bolts through the center piece of hardware on the diverter. I added some weatherstripping to the back side of the diverter to seal the gap thats created by adding the bracket.
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Here is the sensor inplace
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Before you install the water pump its a good idea to extend the wire harness to the proper length.
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I did'nt use the SS sheet metal screws included with the I/C kit from frozenboost.com. I drilled it out and installed nuts with plastic inserts and bolts to keep the hardware from vibrating loose.
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Here's the pump installed. It wasn't tightened down when I took this pic.
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Wire harness installed
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Here is the relay I'm using for the pump. I picked it up from a local 4x4 shop, it's waterproof on both ends (wireharness and relay housing)
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My MM is now ready for this weeks commute to work.
Up next will be the FP swap and COT delete
 

musclemerc

Addict
Jan 6, 2010
554
0
Using Terry's brackets the paper he sent me said he used a 100" belt for the accessories was getting a squealing sound. Went to a 99" belt, everything sounds good so you may want to go that route then. I use Goodyear gatorback belts.


I ordered both 100" and 99" just incase I have an issues with squealing. Not going with the Gatorback, I'm using the NAPA heavyduty green belt
 

musclemerc

Addict
Jan 6, 2010
554
0
My S/C made its trip across the boarder. It was delivered earlier this week. :jg:
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The rotors are in perfect condition and show no signs of wear. A little cleaning and the supercharger looks like new money
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I have all my parts ordered and most arrived but some are taking a little longer than expected, so I'm limited on what I can get done. I went ahead and started with modifying the I/C flange for the Trilogy adapter plate.
The easiest way to do this is to install the bolts that do line up then transfer the hole pattern to the I/C flange
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I used my Daughter's paint kit to mark the bolt patern to the I/C flange
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This is what it looks like after drilling all the holes out
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One thing I didn't have to do was drill the adapter plate for an IAT sensor. This is a revision Trilogy made years after making the mistake of leaving it in the stock Marauder MAF.
While I was at it I soldered the brass fittings for the boost guage and FRPS mod
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Got everything together for the assembly. I sourced the exact same hardware Trilogy used in their kit.
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Here it is ready to go
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I went ahead and finished wiring the relay for the I/C pump. Here's where I put the weatherproof relay
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I'm headed out to get a start on the fuel system. I'm removing my SVT focus pump and replacing it with a single GT supercar pump and a 40amp BAP with an upgraded +12V feed from the power distribution box. The Focus pump will probably work fine for this application, but I dont want any fuel related issues when I hit the dyno.
 
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