Torque specs for tie rod end/castle nut

m_dogg

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Getting annoyed with different answers online...I've seen anywhere from 35, 45, 52 ft/lbs for the outer tie rod end nut. Anyone knows what it should be? I torqued it town to 45ft/lbs but then the castle nut is quite a few turns past the cotter pin hole which worries me a little...Original tie rod ends didn't use cotter pins but the nut was much larger.
 

Yaj Yak

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whatever the impact is set to



:s00ls:
 

m_dogg

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I mean what's the use for the stupid pin at this point? Do I put some loctite on it at least or wait for it to burn to the ground?

 

RICH17

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ummmm that's not suppose to be that way. I wonder if you got the wrong end?
 

m_dogg

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Yeah...both sides are like that. I mean that looks "different"
 

RICH17

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Unless your knuckles got hogged out for some reason, the boot shouldn't be that close to the knuckle
 

boostedguy05

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cotter pin for dummy fail safe? thsi way if a DIY'er screws up but has a pin in to hold it to get to a shop.
 

10sec

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Something is not right here.

Joint is a pull together joint, there is a chance the joint could "expand" and the nut can become loose, that's why there's a cotter pin. You need the cotter pin.
 

m_dogg

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It's actually Moog. I'll try to replace it with Delco or Napa, went to my friend's shop he laughed about the idea of washers and recommended OEM rods. We'll see...
 

boostedguy05

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i have a box of new stuff sitting in my basement. let me check how close the hole is to the end. its in the pile of stuff to drop on james's door step and run.
 

Jfrost

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I used MOOG tie rod ends on my old GTP and remember they didn't have that issue with the cotter pin holes. Something's wrong as others said.
 

m_dogg

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Right knuckle cracked...
Pulled the left tie rod off, waiting for more parts.
:fu:
 

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