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Plus those wheels are hideous! V6 wheels. Really?
Give me a nice notch with a 315/60/15 drag radial tucked in the wheel well and I am good. haha
Or these would work too.
86 5.0 T-top coupe :drool:
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This is how a Notch should look! Sexy-fied.
- Thread starter C.Evans
- Start date
x2
Plus those wheels are hideous! V6 wheels. Really?
Give me a nice notch with a 315/60/15 drag radial tucked in the wheel well and I am good. haha
Or these would work too.
86 5.0 T-top coupe :drool:
But it's practicability is not.
My trucks NEVER had any suspension issues despite having a very low static drop, especially in the nose.
Ron brought this back from Indiana problem free: (700lbs worth of Organ and Tone cabinet)
being low, and having a GOOD lowered suspension are 2 very different things. I rebuilt/replaced everything suspension wise on my truck front and back except the lower front control arms and bushings. It handles bumps fine, sits low, corners hard for being a truck. Too many people cut coils etc and compromise their ride for the stanced look Vs. buying a real lowering kit/suspension.
But it's practicability is not.
My truck just about tucks the front and rear and is very practical. It sits level with no rake. Just because it is tucking tire doesn't mean there isn't more room in the wheel well for suspension travel... Lower center of gravity + big fat sway bars = fun.
I swear your truck sits the same as mine in the front but you have the 4/5 kit don't you? I only have the 2/3 kit and plan on switching to the 4/5 (Just for the sake of replacing the lower control arm and bushings, and then going back to OEM shackles in the rear... don't think I'd get another 2 inches in the front, just looking to level it out)
though I'm getting close to needing new shocks soon on my car as I feel it starting to bounce more after bumps.
Balljoint angles become too excessive for stock control arms when cutting springs etc. and then they start to bind as the suspension moves throughout its travel, and eventually can break. Aftermarket control arms change the location of the balljoints and allow near the same amount of travel as stock, as long as there is room up in the wheel well. I wouldnt go more than a 2" drop when using stock control arms because of balljoint issues, and the camber angles will start to do funny things as the suspension moves thoroughout its travel as well. The top of the tire could possibly start to lean out when making hard turns rather than lean in like it is supposed to. It gets to a point where the balljoint of the lower control arm gets pulled in further than the balljoint of the upper and thats where the positive camber comes from when turning hard, and then it ends up handling like crap and pushes in the corner.
If it makes a difference, I'm running DJM shocks in the front and Belltech Nitro Drop 2's in the rear.
So you're saying in your application your truck handles well and dans does not? 
That's what happens with old technology. I'd love to get some adjustable control arms for the Buick. Then I could run g body or f body knuckles and brakes.
My car has macpherson struts so my camber curve stays negative though it could be better with an anti-roll kit.
That's what happens with old technology. I'd love to get some adjustable control arms for the Buick. Then I could run g body or f body knuckles and brakes.
My car has macpherson struts so my camber curve stays negative though it could be better with an anti-roll kit.
So you're saying in your application your truck handles well and dans does not?
I do not believe that is what he is saying, or the point he is trying to make.
DJM's front and rear, DJM front coils, brand new rear leafs, brand new OEM upper arms, new ball joints all around etc.
No front bumper in this pic, but you can still see how low my nose sits, I almost want to say the 4/5 drop kit is bullshit in the nose mine looks like it has just as much, if not LESS gap than cevans truck in the front. I need to switch back to an OEM shackle in the tail to level out the back.
Who knows! Have you ever weighed your truck?
Nope, I just know what they weigh dry
And that last black one is hot, THAT is a stance I like.
The one I was talking about was just as nice, guy hasent emailed me back today though
Talking to someone about a built ls1 catfish as a trade meow 
Ill get another fox soon.
But it's practicability is not.
it is not practicable nor practical to use practicability interchangeably with practicality.
T
The Beast
Guest
Oh Oh, I know of a clean and unique car!
Oh wait, but seriously I'd take either of our trucks 1000 times over a notch honestly... The interior is bland/boring, and could draw the cars design with 7 lines in MS paint.... I have mad respect for how nasty some of them are, but they just don't interest me... a clean unmolested fox is what, 6-7 grand now? I have less than that in my ranger and you had better believe I'd tear the doors off a stock notch and get more looks per mile.
I have to disagree you have nice ranger but you cant compare a fox to a ranger, what will people pay more for? Most likely the mustang as long as its clean and will be worth more in the future since clean ones are hard to find. Its not expensive to make a fox go fast with so many used parts out there nitrous, hci, blower, gear. If I wanted a pickup truck I would just go buy a lightning if I wanted a Regular cab and so would half the people that want a truck. there are two of you guys that own rangers and are nice builds but you cant compare it to a clean fox no matter what. I appreciate all clean cars or trucks modded or not I like all brands. You have to respect all vehicles as long as they are tatefully modded. IMO Fox stangs are getting rarer everyday.
T
The Beast
Guest
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