Third time is the charm?

slowchevy

eat ass drive fast
Sep 10, 2007
24,469
194
Hoping to get some help and insight from people here. I haven't been here in a while and I know I used to be a pain in the dick but I figure maybe time fixes things and I can get some help.

I know that modifying these is near pointless when a heavily modified boat anchor 3800 is about as fast as a rental-spec Camry these days, but I can't find it in myself to not try one more time.

After not running since 2014, last year I finally got the car running. The issue is that due to a human mistake, the oil relief valve was installed backwards and the engine had a few minutes worth of run time with zero oil circulation on a fresh build (Cam, double roller, new oil pump, bs delete w/ galley feed tapped and plugged, fresh machined heads w stainless zzp valving, stock bottom end).

Everything seemed to be gacked. By the time we found the problem, the engine had 1 pound of oil pressure at warm idle with normal 5-30, and 3 psi of oil pressure at warm idle with 3 quarts of 15-40 and the rest of it lucas oil stabilizer with a max of 10 at wide open throttle. That engine finally spit a connecting rod 2600 miles later and was running on 5 cylinders for a few miles until the connecting rod of that cylinder came down and stopped movement of the crank and the motor locked up.

Fast forward to the end of 2017, I bought a running driving park avenue ultra parts car with just over 100k on it for $350, I took the engine, trans, and a few other things and scrapped the roller.

I am planning on having the machine shop that built my heads look over them to make sure that the valve guides aren't damaged on the cylinder that the rod broke on, because the piston (gently) kissed the valves on that cylinder. They're both open roughly 1-3mm I'd estimate.

Assuming that the guides aren't cracked, I'm going to order 2 replacement stainless valves from ZZP and put them back in.

My questions..

I can't help but find mixed info on how to do a few of these things and trust people here more than random grand prix facebook group people.

How hard is it to convert to E85?

How hard is it to convert to a gen 5 blower?

Only photo I have of carnage..

22688440_10154879396916674_7972421059202246841_n.jpg


Car still looks great because I never have a chance to drive it with it being blown he fuck up every time I look at it.

18517974_10154452633566674_1662416975591862724_o.jpg
 

SleeperLS

TCG Elite Member
TCG Premium
Oct 19, 2008
14,352
8,177
West of the Mississippi
E85 is a very simple conversion. Adjust fuel table by adding 31-33% more fuel and change your fuel filter a few times for the first thousand or so miles. You shouldn't have to change o rings or anything like that for the conversion. Just make sure the fuel pump and injectors can handle the additional fuel needed.

Gen V conversion shouldn't be too terrible either. Hopefully someone else chimes in on that, but you should need a UIM, gasket, gen v blower, the fuel rails that fit the blower, and then some type of throttle body (ls1 is what I used). The maf will also need to be addressed.
 

b4black

before black
Jun 6, 2008
1,331
542
Oswego
Crude way to run E85 is install injectors that are 25-30% oversize. Leave the tune alone this will inject the extra volume of fuel needed.

Better way is with a tuner. HP Tuners has a small table called "Cylinder Gain" under Engine/Fuel. Set them all to 1.3 and that dumps 30% more fuel for the E85. I run this way summer/winter.

Then you scan to see the duty cycle on the injectors. If it's too high (>80%), you need bigger injectors. Also check you fuel pressure at WOT to see if the pump is keeping up. If the pressure doesn't drop off, you're good.


Don't pay a shop $500 to tune your car. Put that money towards HPTuners and a cheap laptop. I'd get an intercooler before going to the Gen 5 - it's a better bang for the buck.


Oh, welcome back. :wavey:
 

10sec

I haz dat teddy bear smile.
TCG Premium
Jul 26, 2008
25,942
5,812
Crude way to run E85 is install injectors that are 25-30% oversize. Leave the tune alone this will inject the extra volume of fuel needed.

Better way is with a tuner. HP Tuners has a small table called "Cylinder Gain" under Engine/Fuel. Set them all to 1.3 and that dumps 30% more fuel for the E85. I run this way summer/winter.

Then you scan to see the duty cycle on the injectors. If it's too high (>80%), you need bigger injectors. Also check you fuel pressure at WOT to see if the pump is keeping up. If the pressure doesn't drop off, you're good.


Don't pay a shop $500 to tune your car. Put that money towards HPTuners and a cheap laptop. I'd get an intercooler before going to the Gen 5 - it's a better bang for the buck.

This guy knows what's up. :fy: This x1000 and some more.
 
Crude way to run E85 is install injectors that are 25-30% oversize. Leave the tune alone this will inject the extra volume of fuel needed.

Better way is with a tuner. HP Tuners has a small table called "Cylinder Gain" under Engine/Fuel. Set them all to 1.3 and that dumps 30% more fuel for the E85. I run this way summer/winter.

Then you scan to see the duty cycle on the injectors. If it's too high (>80%), you need bigger injectors. Also check you fuel pressure at WOT to see if the pump is keeping up. If the pressure doesn't drop off, you're good.


Don't pay a shop $500 to tune your car. Put that money towards HPTuners and a cheap laptop. I'd get an intercooler before going to the Gen 5 - it's a better bang for the buck.


Oh, welcome back. :wavey:

^This exactly. I ran over a year on E85 with changing to 42lb injectors and didnt change anything as far as fueling in the tune. It ran great but I maxed the 42lb injectors out when i switched to a 3.2 pulley. (injector duty cycle was like 110%) I now have 60lb injectors and adjusted the "cylinder gain" table as b4black said.
 

BrianG

Big Dick Team Octane
Oct 5, 2008
5,715
74
Streamwood
Real Name
Brian G
HP Tuners is great, definitely make that investment if you're going to continue to toy with these things like the rest of us with the same sickness (guilty). Gen V just needs the LIM, blower, and TB I think? Pretty sure that as long as you're not intercooled, you don't have to change the fuel rail. I seem to recall the stock Gen V throttle body being drive by wire, but I could be wrong on that. I never used one, I went straight to an LS1 TB with converter for my Gen V.
 

boostedguy05

not well known
TCG Premium
Dec 18, 2010
34,175
25,505
HP Tuners is great, definitely make that investment if you're going to continue to toy with these things like the rest of us with the same sickness (guilty). Gen V just needs the LIM, blower, and TB I think? Pretty sure that as long as you're not intercooled, you don't have to change the fuel rail. I seem to recall the stock Gen V throttle body being drive by wire, but I could be wrong on that. I never used one, I went straight to an LS1 TB with converter for my Gen V.

Yes, gen V is DBW.
 
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