🔧 BUILD The Replacement for the Cobra. V: “Greasy’s Fuck Your Blower-Coyote, Super-Secret Stick-Shift Hellcat Build”

Rent Free

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Man, this guy really hurt your feelings! haha

Anyways, can you please discuss proper clocking of an aftermarket DS?


Its literally been discussed 1000s of times people install them wrong and they vibrate so they need to rotate the shaft and reinstall.
 

Rent Free

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Heres another. Want me to flood this thread with 1000s of people discussing this?
 

Jeffs FRC

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Its literally been discussed 1000s of times people install them wrong and they vibrate so they need to rotate the shaft and reinstall.

Heres another. Want me to flood this thread with 1000s of people discussing this?
What I'm getting at, is there is no rhyme or reason on install and clocking a new driveshaft. VERY FEW people have reduced vibration by clocking a driveshaft. A properly balanced DS should be able to be installed in any position and have zero vibration or very little. Your blanket statement of "if they are not clocked right yes they vibrate" is very misleading and mostly incorrect.

Both the threads you posted have zero claims that clocking a driveshaft is a must. Like I said, its been tried and very few have had improvements. For those that have had improvements, it means that they have an out of balance driveshaft and more importantly, something out of balance in their drivetrain that the out of balance driveshaft has counteracted with.
 

Rent Free

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What I'm getting at, is there is no rhyme or reason on install and clocking a new driveshaft. VERY FEW people have reduced vibration by clocking a driveshaft. A properly balanced DS should be able to be installed in any position and have zero vibration or very little. Your blanket statement of "if they are not clocked right yes they vibrate" is very misleading and mostly incorrect.

Both the threads you posted have zero claims that clocking a driveshaft is a must. Like I said, its been tried and very few have had improvements. For those that have had improvements, it means that they have an out of balance driveshaft and more importantly, something out of balance in their drivetrain that the out of balance driveshaft has counteracted with.

Whatever makes you sleep at night Im posting issues others have gone through.
 

HellPIG

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My one piece Livernois unit with ujoints did very well for 12,000 miles. I took it off because it started getting a rumble strip type vibration under load on the highway. They couldn’t find anything wrong with it, so rebalanced and sent back. I put a DSS on with double CV joints. It was doing ok, but I get a lot of NVH out of it now from 40-60. Probably putting the first one back on. DSS has upgraded once again since I got their most recent new one.

I would give CCI or WILES a try greasy if you do a shaft. Those are the top 2 out there in my opinion.
 

greasy

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Things have been pretty quiet on the Hellcat front for a while, but I just started fabbing up the rear shock tower brace. I initially made plates to attach to the strut towers. Cut them out of ~1/8” plate called Strenx.

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JeffsLightning

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Mig welding the tubing is tough, not as pretty as I would like. Definitely need to keep practicing, but I am getting good penetration so the strength is there. I mocked up some test pieces a couple of weeks ago and BEAT the fuck out of it with a sledge....they didn’t budge.

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Just curious why all of the chassis strengthening? Are you seeing something
 

DanJ

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Overall wasn’t a fan of the design and decided to make small cups out of the pipe and Strenx plate. Much better in opinion. Got the initial cross brace made, still need to tie in the rear mounting points to the front, and then create an X-brace to tie the rear seat mounts to the main cross.

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What’s that black box in the middle with the knobs?
 

LikeABauce302

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I don't think so, it all seems kind of pointless :ROFLMAO:

Yeah that is a factory sub, there are actually 2 there. One is being covered by the blanket.

That canister with the 90 MAX sticker on it is fix a flat. The dial on the left side switches from air to spraying the fix a flat. My Mustang came with the same pump. I also recently learned that those canisters expire and need to be replaced every few years.

I love the fab work. Your MIG welds look good. Nobody will ever see them up close anyhow.
 

Gav'sPurpleZ

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That canister with the 90 MAX sticker on it is fix a flat. The dial on the left side switches from air to spraying the fix a flat. My Mustang came with the same pump. I also recently learned that those canisters expire and need to be replaced every few years.

I love the fab work. Your MIG welds look good. Nobody will ever see them up close anyhow.

and if Jim opts for powdercoating or paint, they will be just fine
 

greasy

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That canister with the 90 MAX sticker on it is fix a flat. The dial on the left side switches from air to spraying the fix a flat. My Mustang came with the same pump. I also recently learned that those canisters expire and need to be replaced every few years.

I love the fab work. Your MIG welds look good. Nobody will ever see them up close anyhow.

Thanks dude, I am just super anal. Reality is a need a little more practice, but I am not going to wait for perfect.
 

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