🔧 BUILD The Replacement for the Cobra. V: “Greasy’s Fuck Your Blower-Coyote, Super-Secret Stick-Shift Hellcat Build”

[greasy]

Damn, that looks right.

Thanks Andy!

 

[IDAFC21]

 

[greasy]

Thanks Paul!

 

[IDAFC21]

That does look good tho. Now wash it and get it out in some sunlight!!

 

[Spivitz]

1.4
60's


...

Dooood

 

[Gav'sPurpleZ]

Jim, you have a talent for finding wheels to fit ( no pun intended ) your vehicles.
what is your hourly rate ?
would like to find something for a 22 year old f body ?

 

[greasy]

Jim, you have a talent for finding wheels to fit ( no pun intended ) your vehicles.
what is your hourly rate ?
would like to find something for a 22 year old f body ?

Thanks Gav! I don't have an hourly rate, but I do obsess over the looks and do a ton of research. You don't like you current wheels?

That does look good tho. Now wash it and get it out in some sunlight!!

I know I know, I am embarrassed!

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

felt a tiny wiggle, mighta been the taco bell

 

[greasy]

felt a tiny wiggle, mighta been the taco bell

The car is super dirty, I am going to sit on the Taco Bell side.

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

i have a buncha old penthouses that have enough pages not stuck together to get them tires to tuck a bit more if ya stack em and set it down, keep it warm and the paints that newer water based shit so it should still be flexible

 

[Jeffs FRC]

Make sure you get that camber sorted especially in the rear. Just looking I can tell there is quite a bit of negative. You'll want it as close to 0* as possible for the best straight line traction.

 

[greasy]

Make sure you get that camber sorted especially in the rear. Just looking I can tell there is quite a bit of negative. You'll want it as close to 0* as possible for the best straight line traction.

Yup that's what all those fancy, red anodized rear suspension parts are for! Once camber gets close to zero, very well may have to slightly raise the rear of the car.

 

[Gav'sPurpleZ]

Thanks Gav! I don't have an hourly rate, but I do obsess over the looks and do a ton of research. You don't like you current wheels?

They are okay. I find myself browsing but there's not a lot of options. And I dont plan to spend 500-1k per wheel

 

[greasy]

Driveshaft is in.........my house!

 

[b4black]

Do you have the little adapter to put on the end of the torque wrench? You'll need it for the rear Sonnax U-joint.

(I think 13mm is correct, but confirm)

 

[b4black]

And make sure the front U-joint doesn't bump the bottom of the shifter. I had to grind a lot off and still shim the crossmember.

 

[greasy]

Do you have the little adapter to put on the end of the torque wrench? You'll need it for the rear Sonnax U-joint.

(I think 13mm is correct, but confirm)
View attachment 82780

And make sure the front U-joint doesn't bump the bottom of the shifter. I had to grind a lot off and still shim the crossmember.

They are actually 10mm - 12 point bolts.

I remember your issues from your install with accessing the bolts so I ordered the torque adapter and a 10mm universal joint socket from Matco this morning! It seems like everyone has this issue with M6. Do you have any pics of where you grinded your shifter at? How thick of shims did you use on the crossmember?

 

[b4black]

For the shims, washers work well. They need to be a larger than a quarter in outer diameter. I found some metric washers that had a smaller ID hole that worked perfectly. I used one per spot (four spots), two might be OK.


The shifter starts out flat along the bottom and I knocked off the front and rear corners with a die grinder. In neutral it was OK. 5th and 6th (forward and back) seemed to be the worst.

With my Wiles, it was the weld bead in the way. With the CCI, it will hit the U-joint body.

 

[greasy]

For the shims, washers work well. They need to be a larger than a quarter in outer diameter. I found some metric washers that had a smaller ID hole that worked perfectly. I used one per spot (four spots), two might be OK.


The shifter starts out flat along the bottom and I knocked off the front and rear corners with a die grinder. In neutral it was OK. 5th and 6th (forward and back) seemed to be the worst.

With my Wiles, it was the weld bead in the way. With the CCI, it will hit the U-joint body.

View attachment 82786View attachment 82787

Good information, this will help!

 

[Turbocharged400sbc]

When you get the car aligned you're going to have to have them do it with your fat ass in the trunk to simulate launching to make sure that the rear camber is at 0 while under power.... 0 camber while static doesn't equate to zero while Under full torque load.

At your power level though you might want to bulk up on a few cheeseburgers first

 

[Jeffs FRC]

Set the camber to zero at static. I’ve never heard of any street car running positive camber at static height...lol

 

[1quick]

i have a buncha old penthouses that have enough pages not stuck together to get them tires to tuck a bit more if ya stack em and set it down, keep it warm and the paints that newer water based shit so it should still be flexible

A lot of the new cars don’t have a lip to need rolling the mustang fenders are already rolled from the factory

 

[1quick]

I hope you do get a 1.4 60’ your going to shit your pants the first time you feel that happen lol

 

[Jeffs FRC]

A lot of the new cars don’t have a lip to need rolling the mustang fenders are already rolled from the factory

And yet there are still tards in the S550 groups asking about rolling their fenders. I always reply with why don’t you reach under there and see what you need to roll...lol

 

[greasy]

I’m too busy in here to be putting my car in some ROTM thread.