đź’¬ OT The New Remote Control Car/Truck/Boat/Plane Megathread
- Thread starter Five-0
- Start date
Only $15 for the Sledge Skidplate.
traxxas.com
And this new Traxxas XRT looks cool but the 1k price isn’t lol
Skidplate, chassis, graphite gray (fits Sledge®) | Traxxas
Protect Sledge's aluminum chassis from scrapes and damage with this tough composite skid plate. Available in several bright colors, the heavy-duty skid plate aligns perfectly with the existing mounting holes for a perfect factory fit. Longer attachment screws come in the kit and must be used...
traxxas.com
And this new Traxxas XRT looks cool but the 1k price isn’t lol
sweet fuck i may need this
www.towerhobbies.com
Losi 1/16 Mini JRXT Brushed 2WD Limited Edition Racing Monster Truck RTR | Tower Hobbies
The 1/16 Mini JRXT Brushed 2WD Limited Edition Racing Monster Truck RTR by Losi is built for high performance driving with optimal functionality and control. Shop RC cars, trucks and other remote control products at Tower Hobbies.
Hey. Love this thread!! My son's have been into RC for a bit now. After seeing the drift cars at the World of Wheels recently, we picked up a RMX MST 2.0 drift car. Any cool indoor tracks set up locally? Thanks
Someone could get this to fly.
1500mm wingspan
1500mm wingspan
So, I just found out my new neighbors have a RC track built in their backyard, and I've been invited to bash this weekend, and every weekend the weather is nice.
Fuck yeah.
Fuck yeah.
so last weekend I charged up my 10 year old LiPos and took 3 cars out to the backyard rc track.
When I took the Mini 8ight buggy out they said it was cute, then could believe how fast it was.
Once I wasted the batts in the 8, I got the Nexx8 1/8th buggy out with its 6 pole tenshock 2400kv on 4S. I was on a set of Switch 2.0 tires really meant more for clay than dirt but they still gripped good enough. The servo I have in that car is much too slow, I can feel the lag in the steering.
They I got the big Jammin X1 crt truggy out with its castle 1717 and 6s. The batts are so shot it performs like it’s on 4S instead of 6 lol. But even still, 10 years later that truck is still dialed the fuck in for track work. For the 6 minutes the batts worked it just hauled ass around a way too tiny track. But it’s so much fun to drive.
Now I’m looking at picking up several sets of lipos so I can be out there for more than 5 minutes on a charge.
At least the small 8ight lipos still hold a decent charge. I can get about 10 minutes a charge out of the 2200mah 2s batts, and about the same from the 3s pack.
When I took the Mini 8ight buggy out they said it was cute, then could believe how fast it was.
Once I wasted the batts in the 8, I got the Nexx8 1/8th buggy out with its 6 pole tenshock 2400kv on 4S. I was on a set of Switch 2.0 tires really meant more for clay than dirt but they still gripped good enough. The servo I have in that car is much too slow, I can feel the lag in the steering.
They I got the big Jammin X1 crt truggy out with its castle 1717 and 6s. The batts are so shot it performs like it’s on 4S instead of 6 lol. But even still, 10 years later that truck is still dialed the fuck in for track work. For the 6 minutes the batts worked it just hauled ass around a way too tiny track. But it’s so much fun to drive.
Now I’m looking at picking up several sets of lipos so I can be out there for more than 5 minutes on a charge.
At least the small 8ight lipos still hold a decent charge. I can get about 10 minutes a charge out of the 2200mah 2s batts, and about the same from the 3s pack.
So, I'm in a bit of a quandary. Traxxas no longer makes or sells the 1st gen TRX connectors. The 2nd gens look like they use the same battery tabs, so I think if I bought some I could just pop the tabs out of my existing charging leads and slide them into the new housings. But they are bigger, and bulkier, and I'd rather have a smaller connector.
For the Lost Mini 8ight, I wanna move to a smaller connector. It's not like that car draws that many amps being so small and light. The TRX connector is overkill, and sometimes makes mounting the body a bit of a pain. I originally had TRX connectors on everything so I could simplify the connector situation. But the TRX is large, and bulky in that tiny car. So I think I'm gonna go back to the OEM EC2 connectors.
For the 10th scale cars, I'm thinking of either Deans, or EC3 connectors. The deans are nice & small, and have a 60amp continuous rating, but they are honestly a pain in the fucking ass to solder when you are using heavier 10 and 12 gauge wiring. The heat required to get that wire to bind to the tabs is often enough to melt the red plastic before the solder can wick properly. But they do work great. The EC3 use insertable bullets, but the spring tension on those does wear out, and overtime can make for weak connections. That said, they are easier to replace as you can pop the bullet out, and solder on a new one, and just reinsert it into the plug.
For the bigger 8th scale stuff I'm thinking possible EC5 as its rated at 120amps continuous. And my truggy and 1/7th scale On-Road both use a Castle 1717 1680kv setup that can easily draw 100 amps continuous all day long. I know that the on-road peaked at nearly 400 amps on one run, which with 6S meant it was pulling nearly 10,000 watts in a burst. Dats ALOTTA juice. Nearly 13hp worth in a car that weighs 11lbs. The truggy can get away with less because I never quite pin the throttle for as long, and punch control kicks in to ramp power in more slowly to keep the nose down, which also reduces the overall current burst loads.
I just don't want to play the connector adapter game. It's okay for charging, but for connections to between the batts and ESCs I don't want to play the adapter game because of resistance losses.
Part of me also wonders why bother with connectors at all and just go to straight bullets. More wires to plug, and unplug, but much slimmer connections.
For the Lost Mini 8ight, I wanna move to a smaller connector. It's not like that car draws that many amps being so small and light. The TRX connector is overkill, and sometimes makes mounting the body a bit of a pain. I originally had TRX connectors on everything so I could simplify the connector situation. But the TRX is large, and bulky in that tiny car. So I think I'm gonna go back to the OEM EC2 connectors.
For the 10th scale cars, I'm thinking of either Deans, or EC3 connectors. The deans are nice & small, and have a 60amp continuous rating, but they are honestly a pain in the fucking ass to solder when you are using heavier 10 and 12 gauge wiring. The heat required to get that wire to bind to the tabs is often enough to melt the red plastic before the solder can wick properly. But they do work great. The EC3 use insertable bullets, but the spring tension on those does wear out, and overtime can make for weak connections. That said, they are easier to replace as you can pop the bullet out, and solder on a new one, and just reinsert it into the plug.
For the bigger 8th scale stuff I'm thinking possible EC5 as its rated at 120amps continuous. And my truggy and 1/7th scale On-Road both use a Castle 1717 1680kv setup that can easily draw 100 amps continuous all day long. I know that the on-road peaked at nearly 400 amps on one run, which with 6S meant it was pulling nearly 10,000 watts in a burst. Dats ALOTTA juice. Nearly 13hp worth in a car that weighs 11lbs. The truggy can get away with less because I never quite pin the throttle for as long, and punch control kicks in to ramp power in more slowly to keep the nose down, which also reduces the overall current burst loads.
I just don't want to play the connector adapter game. It's okay for charging, but for connections to between the batts and ESCs I don't want to play the adapter game because of resistance losses.
Part of me also wonders why bother with connectors at all and just go to straight bullets. More wires to plug, and unplug, but much slimmer connections.
I felt this thing needed its own thread.
www.thechicagogarage.com
YouTube - Scratch built 1/5th scale Ferrari 250GTO Remote control car
When I say scratch built, the entire chassis is scratch built with a hand formed aluminum body. Insane here. It even has an speaker to make V8 engine noises. https://youtu.be/2s9z9Tlumi0
Oh hell, I need these bodies for my 1/7th scale on-road!
www.amainhobbies.com
www.amainhobbies.com
Protoform 2002 Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 Pre-Painted 1/7 On-Road Body (Blue) [PRM1584-13]
The Protoform 2002 Nissan Skyline GT-R R34 Pre-Painted 1/7 On-Road Body is designed to be a factory painted option for your street machine! This... PRM1584-13
Protoform Arrma Felony & Infraction Corvette C8 Pre-Painted Body (Blue) [PRM1577-13]
The Protoform Arrma Felony and Infraction Corvette C8 Pre-Painted Body is an officially licensed body option that offers the ultimate aerodynamic... PRM1577-13
Just picked this up for $123 shipped the guy at leisure hobbies says they are indestructible. They were sold out at the hobby shop which sounded like a winner. The reviews on you tube are all solid.
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