💬 OT The Good Life v.farming

Yaj Yak

Gladys
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just even holes like this:

1712837209662.png
 

sktchy

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Ok so just barely loosen the nuts to where there's no tension on them. Like a thread or two away from the wedges so they have room to "pop" and then smack the side of one of the wedges good to pop it loose. If it starts pulling the stud out of the hub do those last. Those wedges break loose with alot of energy.

When lining them back up leave the brakes loose and set a spray can next to it and spin it while your tightening it back down. Shouldnt need more than a half inch impact for those Dayton wheels.
 

sktchy

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Also no antisieze on any of that. Light oil only when torquing em back down and clean threads and shit first. Those wheels and spacer will fit super tight on the hub so you have to kinda wobble them a bit and slide them off as straight as you can. Those are tubeless so fortunately the inside one might not be one with the hub but if it's a fertilizer trailer you might have some fun. Those things grow rust at a rate I've never seen anything else compare.
 
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GTPpower

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Ok so just barely loosen the nuts to where there's no tension on them. Like a thread or two away from the wedges so they have room to "pop" and then smack the side of one of the wedges good to pop it loose. If it starts pulling the stud out of the hub do those last. Those wedges break loose with alot of energy.

When lining them back up leave the brakes loose and set a spray can next to it and spin it while your tightening it back down. Shouldnt need more than a half inch impact for those Dayton wheels.
Anything I need to watch for so this doesn't kill me?
 
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sktchy

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Anything I need to watch for so this doesn't kill me?
Yes. Just barely back the nuts off and then stay to the side of it and slap the side corner of a wedge with a 4 lb hammer. There's likely a spot you'll see where they've already been smacked. If it looks like it's turned on there replace them and any wheels it's dug into or they won't ever hold tight again.
 
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GTPpower

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That things gonna "pop" and the whole works is gonna shift violently when you break it free and you'll see what I mean. They're held by those wedges pushing outward force on the wheel essentially stretching it.

Seems easy enough. There's a few videos on YouTube to help, but it seems simple.

Does the inside wheel just slide off after I pull the outside one off?

 

sktchy

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Yessir but you'll have to rock it a little on the hub and maybe take a big hammer to it to knock it loose if it's been shoved back far enough. Hit the flat surfaces of the top one or two spoke sections it sits in with generating oil of your choose and it'll slide off alot easier and it won't cake up and have buildup screwing you when you put it back on or take it apart again later.
 
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GTPpower

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So one wheel has the ribbed spacer, and the other is smooth. Must have gotten replaced at one time I guess. 20240411_152619.jpg

20240411_152659.jpg

The 2nd wheel has one wedge that's different than the rest, but I'm assuming that's OK.

I'm going to head to harbor freight and buy their 1" impact because there are a couple bolts on this tag axle that I can't budge with the old m18.
 
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sktchy

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Definitely rotted out the corrugated one at some point or somebody lost it. The oddball wedge I don't really like but it's worked this far and you already know what your dealing with.

When you put it back together there's a little nub on both sides of the valve stem. Make sure those are centered between the spokes and that the wedges don't sit down on top of them or they will turn and come loose and probably shear the stems and get wedged on there and all sorts of dumb stuff.

Looking at that style hub you may get away with backing the brakes off, pulling the hub cover and popping the spindle nut and taking those center five loose and sliding the whole set of duals and drum off at once. If your already going that far in it may save you a step or two.
 
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