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Would help to see the fine scratches, but more than likely paint correction issue. I know some paste waxes with fillers will hide them.Whats going on dudes. I did a detail but still have fine scratches in the paint. Is that something that can be corrected with a spray wax or is that more of a paint correction issue?
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Went to Car Supplies Warehouse at the Chicago Auto Pros shop in Lombard and picked up some HydrO2 on my way to work today. Was surprised they actually beat Amazon’s price by about 2 dollars also. Wanted something to get some protection on areas that I don’t typically put any sealant or wax on because it’s a pain in the ass to get into small areas. Spray on, let sit, then it activates when the stream of water hits it. Used it on my wheels and front bumper and they’re both noticeably more hydrophobic.
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So Gav'sPurpleZ , I watched your solo vs IK sprayer video. Do you know will P&S Brake Buster foam out of a solo sprayer, or is that something specific to the design of the IK?
The solo sprayer "atomizes" the products well but if you are looking for "foam" then a "foam" sprayer is necessary. iK has new versions of their sprayers.
Auto fanatic has started using "foam it" foamers.
Obsessed garage puts the brake buster in a foam cannon. I've tried the foam only wheel washing ( meaning no bucket with soapy water ) and I wasnt a fan. Note, I used the iK foam 9 foamer, not a foam cannon so the amount of product was a bit less.
I'm getting ready to polish and re install the wheels on my C10.
They're in great shape but have some water spotting and grunge from being moved around the shop that I'd like to get polished out.
Plan is to use Adam's 2 step process by hand but I've been thinking about getting a 3" pad for my PC and giving that a shot for the barrels and other large areas.
Had anybody ever tried it?
Also. Does anybody have any experience with the various wheel ceramics being offered?
The wheels are Billet Specialties Bonneville's and have lots of bare polished area that I would love to better protect if at all possible.
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Be careful few years back i polished a sculpture of a nyc gallery that was worh 600k and i tried ceramic pro but it fogged finish badly. Tough call you need to do a test to see how it reacts. Problem is metal polishes all have oils and chemicals in them that soak into pores and react. Ive tested this a few times and have yet to be confident in suggesting something
is the gray section smooth or textured ? if textured, it may be a bit of a pain to apply a coating to. Some pro shops will use a small air pen looking thing ( like what an air brush artist would use... small reservoir for the product ).
As for the aluminum, you have to be careful with the product that you use. Dekalb county lifts asked me to protect a set of 28" forged aluminum wheels. I remember watching an autofanatic video where he talked about applying a coating to artwork and having a big issue. I emailed him to ask if he had suggestions. Here is the email response:
So I did some research of my own. A few threads used Gtechniq C5 wheel armour. I checked their site and it does not say safe for bare aluminum wheels.
Other threads mentioned CarPro DLUX. I emailed the guys @ sky care care. Their response was that DLUX can be used but they suggest using Ultima aluminum sealant instead.
More research showed that McKee's wheel coating was safe for bare aluminum. I emailed them to confirm and they said it is okay to use.
I have their original formula. I'm happy to report I used it on the wheels and no fogging or any distortion of the finish occurred.
Even if they are coated, it will only slow the oxidation process, so they will need to be re-polished at some point in the future to maintain the mirror like finish.
I would look into the aluminum sealant to keep them looking good, it's not expensive.Gav - thank you for that intel!
The gray is textured, like a bead blasted finish then painted gray.
I think I will pass on coating them. It's not worth the risk and tbh pulling them every winter and polishing will be a good project.