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Jon01

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Feb 8, 2012
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...where to start......................................................................................................................................
Here is a Menzerna polish chart:

1. 3D speed on a white pad is not going to provide much correction AND IT ADDS PROTECTION.
Yeah, I started this not realizing just how borked it was.

2. Even though the protection in the 3D speed is not that durable, your next step 'polishing' was 1st removing that 'protective' layer thus gumming up your yellow pad. Are you cleaning your pads after 1-2 section passes ?

Yeah, I did one area with the 3D/white pad, didn't get the results I wanted so I switched to the IPC/yellow combo.
I am working the product fully.
I have not cleaned my pads, but only did the hood and roof. They are probably about ready to be cleaned - do you have a recommended product?

3. P091E has a cut of 5 ( which on hard german paint is zip ) and a gloss level of 6. Using this as a single step polish would not be my choice.
Agreed - that's why I'm asking for help. It was what I had on hand.
4. Chemical Guys is a marketing company. Their products are not that great for actual enthusiast detailers who want actual results. Blacklight is a glaze which means it likely has FILLERS.
Agreed on CG. Again, what I had on hand from an impulse buy.
5. What product are you planning to use as your LSP ( Last step product ) ? Wax, Sealant, Ceramic coating ? I would think depending on the answer, it would not bond well to the blacklight. A panel prep of some sort should be used after the final polishing step no matter what level of protection is being used.
Last step will be a sealant, I had planned to use Poorboy's World EX-P.
What machine are you using ?
What brand pads are you using ? Different manufacturers have the same colors and the cut level is different.

I am using a 7424 with Lake Country pads.
I can make suggestions but with the current product lineup, I feel that you will be chasing your tail with sub-par results.

Depending on what you want as the end result, 90-100% correction is not feasible unless you want to do a 2-3 step FULL compound, polish and refine.

The marks visible in the pictures look like fine scratches not marring or typical swirls. The 1st picture doesn't look that bad but the light is only concentrated in the one area.

I'll take all the feedback and suggestions you care to offer.
I have been out of the game driving patina toys or beater dailies so I'm not up to snuff on the latest and greatest.
This thing has needed corrected since I brought it home and I'm going to have the time to do it right over the next few weeks.
 
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Gav'sPurpleZ

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If you want to use the pads/ products that you have on hand then I would find the most aggressive foam pad you have and use it with P091E.
The amount of haze left behind may vary. It may not be 'clear' enough for your wants to go straight to EX-P.

You can use a less aggressive foam pad with the 3D speed as a 2nd step. This should help refine any DA haze left from the P091E. I suggest a 50/50 isopropyl alcohol / distilled water mix to wipe the vehicle down before applying the EX-P.
Not sure if the EX-P would bond to the 3D product.

Lake country pads should be high to low aggressive ( Yellow, Orange then white ? )
While the PC can do plenty of work, it is going to be another limiting factor in your process.

If you wanted to buy some products to help then let me know how much you want to spend.
Rupes yellow wool pads, Lake Country or Meguiars microfiber cutting pads would help with the heavier defect removal.
Some higher gloss finishing polish like Sonax Perfect finish, Menzerna 3500 or Rupes fine/yellow polish would help.
If you wanted to look into a product that can do both and is only pad dependent then The Last Cut Compounding glaze would be a solid choice.
It will cut with wool or MF pads and finish down well with a foam polishing pad.

As for cleaning the pads as you go, compressed air to 'blow out' the pad or a pad conditioning brush to remove polish and paint debris would work.
Cleaning them end of job or polishing session, I suggest the original green palmolive ( available locally ). Wash with warm not hot water, using thumbs to flush out the product.
Air dry, face ( pad surface ) downward. if you have a clean metal shelf this will allow air flow to help dry.

I can find you videos that touch on every item here. It may be information overload but sometimes visual aids help.
Let me know and I can PM you
 

Jon01

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Feb 8, 2012
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If you want to use the pads/ products that you have on hand then I would find the most aggressive foam pad you have and use it with P091E.
The amount of haze left behind may vary. It may not be 'clear' enough for your wants to go straight to EX-P.

You can use a less aggressive foam pad with the 3D speed as a 2nd step. This should help refine any DA haze left from the P091E. I suggest a 50/50 isopropyl alcohol / distilled water mix to wipe the vehicle down before applying the EX-P.
Not sure if the EX-P would bond to the 3D product.

Lake country pads should be high to low aggressive ( Yellow, Orange then white ? )
While the PC can do plenty of work, it is going to be another limiting factor in your process.

If you wanted to buy some products to help then let me know how much you want to spend.
Rupes yellow wool pads, Lake Country or Meguiars microfiber cutting pads would help with the heavier defect removal.
Some higher gloss finishing polish like Sonax Perfect finish, Menzerna 3500 or Rupes fine/yellow polish would help.
If you wanted to look into a product that can do both and is only pad dependent then The Last Cut Compounding glaze would be a solid choice.
It will cut with wool or MF pads and finish down well with a foam polishing pad.

As for cleaning the pads as you go, compressed air to 'blow out' the pad or a pad conditioning brush to remove polish and paint debris would work.
Cleaning them end of job or polishing session, I suggest the original green palmolive ( available locally ). Wash with warm not hot water, using thumbs to flush out the product.
Air dry, face ( pad surface ) downward. if you have a clean metal shelf this will allow air flow to help dry.

I can find you videos that touch on every item here. It may be information overload but sometimes visual aids help.
Let me know and I can PM you
Dude - THANK YOU!
I don't mind shooting you a PM, or if we want to stay here so others can see the info that's cool too.

Last night I was using what I had purely because I decided on a whim that I was tired of looking at the finish and didn't have anything else to do last night.
If you want to make me a laundry list of shit to buy I have no problem ordering whatever you think would be best. I am a buy once, cry once kinda guy and if it makes my life easier I'll spend money.

Thanks Gav!
 

Gav'sPurpleZ

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Dude - THANK YOU!
I don't mind shooting you a PM, or if we want to stay here so others can see the info that's cool too.

Last night I was using what I had purely because I decided on a whim that I was tired of looking at the finish and didn't have anything else to do last night.
If you want to make me a laundry list of shit to buy I have no problem ordering whatever you think would be best. I am a buy once, cry once kinda guy and if it makes my life easier I'll spend money.

Thanks Gav!
i will send you a PM
 
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Gav'sPurpleZ

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Come On Food GIF by Masterchef
 
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Gav'sPurpleZ

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Anything more than a water based tire dressing is BS.
It's not going to last any longer on the tires and the last thing you want is a thick sludge like dressing on the tires.

Every flippin' product nowadays is ceramic, SiO2 or graphene infused.
its all BS
 

blue-sun

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Nov 10, 2020
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Ran the car through a touchless wash this morning. Mixed up some AMMO Anti-Salt wash in a pump sprayer (About an ounce and filled up the rest of the 16 oz sprayer with water) and used that as a pre-rinse at the coin op wash.

I also spent my lunchbreak doing an interior cleaning, Scrubbed the weathertech mats and vacuumed the carpeting. Also gave the "leatherette" seats a quick Mothers VLR treatment.

If I can, I will do a rinseless wash later tonight, we'll see how much other stuff we do tonight (xmas lights are going to come down)
 

Shawn1112

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Ran the car through a touchless wash this morning. Mixed up some AMMO Anti-Salt wash in a pump sprayer (About an ounce and filled up the rest of the 16 oz sprayer with water) and used that as a pre-rinse at the coin op wash.

I also spent my lunchbreak doing an interior cleaning, Scrubbed the weathertech mats and vacuumed the carpeting. Also gave the "leatherette" seats a quick Mothers VLR treatment.

If I can, I will do a rinseless wash later tonight, we'll see how much other stuff we do tonight (xmas lights are going to come down)
Took mine to the touchless as well and I rinsed all the salt off. Was thinking of doing a rinseless in the garage tomorrow on mine and the Wifeys. How do you like that AMMO and have you tried any others? I was looking at the 303 salt shit, Ive never used any of the salt shit

I have seen you and others mention using a pre=soak from one of those cheap Menards sprayers while doing a rinseless. I want to do that as well being the cars arent as clean as I normally keep them due to it being winter. What do you dilute the pre-soak at and do you pre-soak 1 panel at a time? Sorry dude, I'm still new to this rinseless washing. So any tips or pointers, I'm all ears
 
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blue-sun

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Took mine to the touchless as well and I rinsed all the salt off. Was thinking of doing a rinseless in the garage tomorrow on mine and the Wifeys. How do you like that AMMO and have you tried any others? I was looking at the 303 salt shit, Ive never used any of the salt shit

I have seen you and others mention using a pre=soak from one of those cheap Menards sprayers while doing a rinseless. I want to do that as well being the cars arent as clean as I normally keep them due to it being winter. What do you dilute the pre-soak at and do you pre-soak 1 panel at a time? Sorry dude, I'm still new to this rinseless washing. So any tips or pointers, I'm all ears

No worries.

I have only used the Ammo stuff since last winter. I bought it too late to include in the regular wash bucket/process. I put in the 1-2 oz in my pump sprayer and then fill with water to the top line. THen I put the lid on and give it a good shake. You have to pump it up a bunch of times to build the pressure. When I get to the coin op, I pump it up and spray down the entire car in the bay before I put my money in. It helps to loosen the dirt up since the coin op "soap" is pretty shitty. After pre-rinsing, I'll run the soap then rinse the car off at the coin op and be done.

For Rinseless wash, I use that in the summertime in a similar way if it's dirty, 1-2 oz and then fill with water. I'll spray liberally on all the panels then wash like normal, though I usually only do this when the car is filthy. I tend to use it more in summer time as a drying aid/quick detailer.

Maybe I'll do the wife's Accord tonight if I get the chance and record it for you. It's pretty easy and quick to do.
 
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Gav'sPurpleZ

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You don’t like ceramic coating on the paint either?
Ceramic coatings from the main companies for paint, trim, wheels and glass are fine.
Any other 'dressing' or random product that is SiO2 is a marketing pitch.

Shawn1112 Shawn1112
I have Salt away or Salt gone and sometimes add it to the iK Foamer ( I think it's the 9, larger one but older container style ). when I go to the pay and spray.
When performing a rinseless wash, I always pretreat the surface with a sprayer + rinseless wash solution.
I have used the ultra black sponge, MF mitts and the multiple MF towel method.
If it is warm enough, I will do a few panels at a time ( Bumper, hood and fenders.....windshield, roof, back window.....2 side doors.....rear 1/4s, trunk/tailgate/ bumper )

All work okay, I try to avoid rinseless washing at all costs but sometimes its necessary just to get the vehicle clean in winter months.
 
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IDAFC21

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Has anyone used this Griots Garage Ceramic tire dressing?


I've been using meguiars endurance gel for YEARS.


A little bit of this really goes a long way. I use very little and just work it onto the tire until its all evenly (thinly) coated. Puts a nice shine on the tire and it will last awhile, especially on cars like my GTO that don't go outside every single day. And if you put it on the right way and let it sit before you drive nothing slings off onto your paint either. This shit will last you forever. It's not water based or anything so it can get a little greasy, but it cleans off easy enough with a decent wheel/tire cleaner like brake buster and a good tire brush
 
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Aron

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Sep 1, 2005
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I've been using Ultima Tire and Trim Guard for a few years and I love it.

Never greasy, doesn't fling, gives a nice natural look. I've had the same bottle for years as a little goes a long way. I applied it to my bike trim going on 2 years ago and it still looks good and is hydrophobic as hell.
 

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