Problem is that hull design is 2014-2018 only. I don't like the layout of the previous generation. I expect the market to keep dipping on used boats. I full expect to fine a 2015-2016 for mid $40's from fresh water. Might take some time, but I have it to spare.
Im such a rookie I should just do boat share at the various marinas around here like coworker does.I'm not worried. The lack of snow up north will drop levels. I'm not convinced we won't still see a low year over all.as long as it stops fucking raining here and north
It really depends on how oxidized the boat is as to what it would cost but, a boat that size would take me a full day to buff if it wasn’t too bad, you can probably find some one to buff it for 800-1000 bucks on the side, it would probably be 2-3k at a marina
Find out when the last time the stringers and transom were done, the only boats from the 80’s that don’t need a transom and stringers are the ones that have already had them done, and find out the hours on the motor, boats with big cams need valve springs at a minimum around 200 hours
I don't really know how to gauge the condition, but it's pretty dry and dusty. If I can just get the sides above the water line done before it goes into the water on May 3rd or so, I'd be fine with finishing the top sides from the dock.
If you want to learn to buff the sides are the best, nice open area to practice on, get a high speed buffer and a white 3m wool pad and some wizards turbo cut, start with the buffer turned down about half way as you get comfortable you can turn it up it will cut faster the higher the speed, try to keep the pad as flat as possible, every time you are ready to add more compound clean the pad with a screw driver or pad cleaner it will help keep the buffer from pulling you around and make in easier to control if you keep the pad clean
